Repairing roof pinholes with 3M 8115 Panel Bond

Going out on a limb on this subject but has anyone heard of this product?
The video is pretty crude but as most product endorsements go it's the cat's meow.


Been discussed before. Just another moisture cure urethane if I recall right. So POR-15 with a different label imho....

Don
 
Going out on a limb on this subject but has anyone heard of this product?
The video is pretty crude but as most product endorsements go it's the cat's meow.

The MasterSeries Silver primer and AG-111 topcoat are favorites among VW
enthusiast. If you search through www.thesamba.com you will find many topics discussing the product as well as owners who have used it. It is typically used on chassis and wheel wells but some have used it as a DTM on the entire car. One of the forum members, Chuck P (vwsplitman), is a dealer for the product and has been using it for 25 years. I have not used the product myself but plan to use it on my chassis, wheel wells, and suspension parts based on the reviews from fellow members on the site.

There is a MasterSeries Silver version which is a thicker formula and claims it is suitable for filling in pitting and pinholes. It is a high aluminum content moisture cure urethane coating that seals out oxygen and moisture once cured. I am not shilling for the product, just sharing what I have researched.

Cheers,
Emil
 
The MasterSeries Silver primer and AG-111 topcoat are favorites among VW
enthusiast. If you search through www.thesamba.com you will find many topics discussing the product as well as owners who have used it. It is typically used on chassis and wheel wells but some have used it as a DTM on the entire car. One of the forum members, Chuck P (vwsplitman), is a dealer for the product and has been using it for 25 years. I have not used the product myself but plan to use it on my chassis, wheel wells, and suspension parts based on the reviews from fellow members on the site.

There is a MasterSeries Silver version which is a thicker formula and claims it is suitable for filling in pitting and pinholes. It is a high aluminum content moisture cure urethane coating that seals out oxygen and moisture once cured. I am not shilling for the product, just sharing what I have researched.

Cheers,
Emil
Welcome to the forum. You are not going to find many, if any, fans of that stuff on this forum. Die hard SPI epoxy fans here....

Don
 
Welcome to the forum. You are not going to find many, if any, fans of that stuff on this forum. Die hard SPI epoxy fans here....

Don
Based on the goodwill expressed by the many talented professionals and hobbyists on this site I am developing a leaning towards going all SPI on my project. Please indulge my ignorance and questions.
1) I previously coated my entire bare metal car in phosphoric acid (Eastwood After Blast). I did this before I knew that it did not play nice with SPI Epoxy. I am going to sand the entire car with 80 grit back to shiny metal and coat it with SPI Epoxy as I go.
What can or should I do to compensate for any acid I will inevitably miss when sanding?
2) What can I do to protect the integrity of the Epoxy and topcoat in the harsher areas of the vehicle?
I am on the fence about whether I will paint the car myself or do the prep work and farm out the spray. Regardless, I will most likely be using one of the alternative brands listed in this thread if I don't go with an SPI color and clear. Any recommendations for painters in the Jacksonville, FL area that work with SPI or alternate brand (this threas) products?

Thank you all for your contributions.

Cheers,
Emil
 
Based on the goodwill expressed by the many talented professionals and hobbyists on this site I am developing a leaning towards going all SPI on my project. Please indulge my ignorance and questions.
1) I previously coated my entire bare metal car in phosphoric acid (Eastwood After Blast). I did this before I knew that it did not play nice with SPI Epoxy. I am going to sand the entire car with 80 grit back to shiny metal and coat it with SPI Epoxy as I go.
What can or should I do to compensate for any acid I will inevitably miss when sanding?
2) What can I do to protect the integrity of the Epoxy and topcoat in the harsher areas of the vehicle?
I am on the fence about whether I will paint the car myself or do the prep work and farm out the spray. Regardless, I will most likely be using one of the alternative brands listed in this thread if I don't go with an SPI color and clear. Any recommendations for painters in the Jacksonville, FL area that work with SPI or alternate brand (this threas) products?

Thank you all for your contributions.

Cheers,
Emil
I think you have to reapply the acid and then rinse it off while wet to neutralize the acid. Barry can confirm on the tech line.

Don
 
Ospho is the only metal treatment approved by SPI, afaik, and the procedure is outlined in the epoxy section of the Tech Manual.
 
I’ve seen a buddy blast pits / pin holes clean, then fill them in with JB weld. It’s an epoxy, so it last. He used the stuff for all kinds of repairs, with and without backing. He never had any comebacks, surprisingly.
I used some panel bond about 20 years ago, but it remained sticky if exposed to the air, and ghosted pretty bad even if covered by filler. I’m sure 8115 is much better.
Dave
 
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