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Anorexicvega
For cavities that cant be accessed, is it better to spray epoxy first, then spray the cavities with converter? Or the other way around and clean/neutralize areas that would be epoxied? Tia
John Long
Member
Barry has repeatedly stated SPI Epoxy is not intended to be put on top of converter and he absolutely will not guarantee adhesion. Please research this subject carefully before you proceed. If you are going to use any kind of converter it is going to have to be neutralized. This will involve thoroughly rinsing it while it is still wet.
There have been many threads written about this issue and lots of information is here on the forum. Please, do yourself a favor and educate youself on any form of acid for rust control.
There are products such as Cavity Wax made for this purpose but I am no authority on how well they work.
John
There have been many threads written about this issue and lots of information is here on the forum. Please, do yourself a favor and educate youself on any form of acid for rust control.
There are products such as Cavity Wax made for this purpose but I am no authority on how well they work.
John
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bing98
I'm doing some rust repair on an 01 Grand Prix that has many hidden cavities. After much research here and elsewhere I have decided on no rust converter on anything I can access. Only SPI after sandblasting. Stuff i have some access to, but not enough to blast will get sprayed down with Ospho and then later treated with Fluid Film cavity wax. Rails and such that can't be easily sprayed with Ospho will get some Eastwood internal Frame coating followed by some Fluid Film cavity wax.
I'm under no illusions that these treatment will get every bit of rust, but I hope to slow it enough to get many more years out of the car..
Good luck
I'm under no illusions that these treatment will get every bit of rust, but I hope to slow it enough to get many more years out of the car..
Good luck
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Anorexicvega
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Anorexicvega
I had the eastwood stuff in mind.
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Anorexicvega
From what i've read, the cavity wax is a preventitive. I know there's surface rust on some of the internal cavities of this car. I can't see just leaving it as the only option.
B
bing98
That's my understanding of a cavity wax as well. It's a preventative. It will help prevent rust from starting and it will also help prevent existing rust from spreading further. As you know, rust requires air and moisture in order to spread. The cavity wax will seal the surface preventing moisture and oxygen from reaching the surface. As the wax doesn't harden it can work it's way into little crevasses and seal the metal. Theoretically, as it doesn't harden it's self-healing. On the under carriage of a vehicle the cavity wax will have to be applied at least annually. Being exposed to the weather it will eventually wear off. inside that trunk lid however it will probably last for a long time without further treatment.
Click on the following link to check out long-term review a guy did on Fluid Film cavity wax. In part of the vid he applies it so you can get a real sense of how it goes on and what it look like. Fluid Film Review
He also uses the same gun I used, which I'm very please with. Found here.... Kellsport Undercoating Gun
In my opinion if you really want to eliminate that rust inside the trunk lid properly it should hot tanked at a place like this.... Metalworks (click on this link to see the process). I had it done years ago and was pretty impressed. This is just an example I found. I'm not necessarily recommending them. You might be able to find a service locally.
I'm curious if SPI Epoxy can be applied right after a hot tanking process or does the rust inhibitor they use need to be wiped/sanded off? Can anyone comment on this?
Ospho might be a good solution for a deck lid. It's a liquid so it can work itself into all the seams and such. You can pour a little in and swish it around to get good coverage. Just make sure to follow Barry's post-Ospho prep if you get any on the exposed part of the lid that you will be later spraying with SPI Epoxy.
Click on the following link to check out long-term review a guy did on Fluid Film cavity wax. In part of the vid he applies it so you can get a real sense of how it goes on and what it look like. Fluid Film Review
He also uses the same gun I used, which I'm very please with. Found here.... Kellsport Undercoating Gun
In my opinion if you really want to eliminate that rust inside the trunk lid properly it should hot tanked at a place like this.... Metalworks (click on this link to see the process). I had it done years ago and was pretty impressed. This is just an example I found. I'm not necessarily recommending them. You might be able to find a service locally.
I'm curious if SPI Epoxy can be applied right after a hot tanking process or does the rust inhibitor they use need to be wiped/sanded off? Can anyone comment on this?
Ospho might be a good solution for a deck lid. It's a liquid so it can work itself into all the seams and such. You can pour a little in and swish it around to get good coverage. Just make sure to follow Barry's post-Ospho prep if you get any on the exposed part of the lid that you will be later spraying with SPI Epoxy.