Sanding Block Wisdom

Dean Jenkins

Dean Jenkins

Promoted Users
I bought a full set of Dura-Block sanding blocks and thought I was good to go, had the pro tools I needed.

I've noticed several snippets in other threads about sanding blocks. Some folks using acrylic blocks, others using "true level" hardwood.

Found this guy, who is very proud of his Acrylic blocks (as in they are VERY expensive!) https://linearblockingtools.com/

What is the wisdom on sanding blocks? Dura-Block just fine, or need something else?

Any input is very welcome!
 
The skill level of the person using the tool is more important than the tool itself. Not to say that the very best, latest, throwdown tool is not neat to have, but I have gotten show quality paint jobs using a paint stick for a block in the past. Dura-Blocks are definitely a step up from that.
 
Last edited:
I use Dura-Blocks exclusively....

DSC_0111.jpg
DSC_0113.jpg
 
I mostly work on c1 an c2 corvettes that have very little flat surfaces. I mostly use the flexible AFS blocks which unfortunately are not available any more. I have a small set of Kraus's True Blox, but I don't find them very easy to handle with the skinny rubber handle on them. I've also purchase some long piece of 3/8" and 1/2" thick acrylic from the local plastic supply house which work well for long areas you want to get flat. Proper grit sandpaper is also important. I may start off with 40 or 80 if I have filler over a large area, then work up from there.
And I agree, the hands on the tool are most important. Let the block shape the panel.
 
I agree that the technique is important. Doesn't matter what brand sanding block your prefer, the choice of grit and the pressure at which you sand make the difference.

I like the Durablock round block for curved and concave surfaces.
 
Dura block for me and I use different lengths of PVC conduit pipe for concave areas - had a bunch laying around so I tried it and it worked
 
I have Durablocks, some Hutchins long boards and a treasured AFS long sander and I use them all for various jobs. The AFS is the best sanding block I have used. I wish I had bought more before they closed shop.

I’ve been following the antics of that guy pushing his cut up acrylic tubes on Facebook. Damn entertaining and I don’t think they will stand up to continuous use without cracking.

Don
 
I've used various Durablocks, a couple of adjustable AFS blocks, paint sticks, a Hutchins wooden/foam faced block, and most recently my own acrylic blocks after ordering a set of True Blox wetsanding set and seeing how well they worked. We have a ton of plexi and lexan drops from the glass work our shop does so I made my own as I needed different sizes and thickness for the panels I was blocking.

I'm a firm believer in hard face blocks now- foam or even the thin stainless sheet over foam like AFS has will absorb high spots instead of cutting them flat. Acrylic blocks are hard all the way through so they cut the high spots down very effectively. They also flex in a natural arc so curved shapes come out very nicely shaped- foam will again conform to the high spots of a rounded/curved panel instead of cutting them down as flat. I've seen a ton of post on facebook in the body/paint groups I'm in from people that have switched to acrylic then re-blocked their project and were very surprised at what was missed with other blocks.

If only there was a hard faced convex block that was flexible for concave curves...
 
I think it might be more correct to say that it's easiest to make convex surfaces look good, and flat areas with no obstructions to blocking are a close second. Get into concave areas, especially with obstructions, and it's a different story.
 
crashtech said:
I think it might be more correct to say that it's easiest to make convex surfaces look good, and flat areas with no obstructions to blocking are a close second. Get into concave areas, especially with obstructions, and it's a different story.
Click to expand...

Concave areas are the worst. They magnify imperfections like crazy, and it seems like it's nearly impossible to get your sanding pattern to not show up.
 
This was done with acrylic and pvc pipe for the concave areas. The surface is Slick Sand blocked to 400 grit, wet with wax and grease remover to make it reflective. Static pictures, or looking at a panel in person can make a panel look straight, but moving around at a steep angle will show up any imperfections. I'm pretty sure this is as good as I can get a panel, and it'll probably get a bit choppy from urethane wave after painting it.

 
Evil_Fiz said:
What diameter PVC did you use?
Click to expand...
I cut up a 2" diameter pipe. Larger diameter would have been better to give a larger radius piece, but the wall thickness gets so thick there is virtually no flex. I've also used with some success, 3-4" cardboard shipping tubes uncut. No flex, but it does work if used properly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top