Seal that thing?

'68 Coronet R/T said:
Wow, I told you all I was a garage hack.
That car looks ready for 3 coats of 2k build primer to me. He already has epoxy and 2k on it, so why 2 more coats of epoxy before the 2k?
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Well because when you're also a garage hack like me, you've got a shit ton of sand thru's and filler, so I want the epoxy over the bare metal spots.
 
crashtech said:
Epoxy only is not actually that hard, you just have to get used to the idea that low areas need a little skim of poly putty, or high areas need to be reworked a little, and the thing will have to have more rounds of primer than usual. It's had the effect of making me a little more diligent with straightening.

That's not to say that poly primer doesn't have a place, I do use it on areas that need extra help, but never on a complete vehicle, at least not so far. Maybe if I do something again like an old Impala with lots of long straight lines, I would definitely consider overall poly priming. Or fiberglass parts, those are usually terrible.
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What crashtech said... On the Dart it is only epoxy and glaze/filler. You will end up with a more rounds of epoxy (this was before the price hikes!) and lots of finessing with glaze/ filler and hammer and dolly between rounds. Also like he said I got a lot better at really trying to get it flat before another round of epoxy. The Valiant I went the polyester primer route. I did not like that at all and won't do it again (thou I am not restoring another car). I will go back to just epoxy and skim coats of glaze/filler.
 
RosharonRooster said:
I agree. But I always wonder if spraying it on the car is better than spraying it on a wipe or towel...does W&G solvents ever get trapped and come back after the car is painted??
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I just wipe it with a lint free towel moistened with W&G remover . I would not spray it unless you want to wait a day or two for it to fully evaporate
 
RosharonRooster said:
I agree. But I always wonder if spraying it on the car is better than spraying it on a wipe or towel...does W&G solvents ever get trapped and come back after the car is painted??
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@Chris_Hamilton has an excellent thread somewhere here on prepping a car and proper technique for WG.
Short version is to mist on the car and wipe off.
If I'm using solvent WG on anything that could absorb it like filler or poly primer, I go over it lightly with heat gun and give it extra dry time.
I've read on other forums that some guys think putting WG on filler is like walking under a ladder while breaking a mirror with a black cat crossing your path.

I just want it clean.
 
does W&G solvents ever get trapped and come back after the car is painted??
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Only if you don't give it enough time to gas out which depends on how much and how you applied it.I always use a spray bottle because I can't afford gallons of It to waste. But I'm not doing a car a week and under no "clock" so I can wait till I feel comfortable and spraying again,but usually, 30 min with the fan on minimum.
Everything I did was just Spi Epoxy after I got my first gallon. Used Nason epoxy up till then and it wasn't easy to sand but Spi is soo easy to work with unless I needed a light primer color,went to Base. Apply glaze,sand thru,whatever and roll on. Besides having basically one product rather than maybe 3 under your paint.
Spi Epoxy has its own guid coat anyway for anything obvious and then some.
It's also a hell of a lot tougher than 2k.
Wish the spell nazi would leave my spelling alone.
 
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If it's a catalyzed Putty or glaze,would be the same as any 2k product.
Then I'm spraying Epoxy over It anyway and when you just blow blasted bare steel off, why would you w&gr glaze ?
 
Dean Jenkins said:
@Chris_Hamilton has an excellent thread somewhere here on prepping a car and proper technique for WG.
Short version is to mist on the car and wipe off.
If I'm using solvent WG on anything that could absorb it like filler or poly primer, I go over it lightly with heat gun and give it extra dry time.
I've read on other forums that some guys think putting WG on filler is like walking under a ladder while breaking a mirror with a black cat crossing your path.

I just want it clean.
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The key is wiping it off before it dries, so doing a small section at a time, and then letting it flash.
I usually spray the surface with compressed air to remove any dust or towel fragments prior to painting.
 
RosharonRooster said:
I agree. But I always wonder if spraying it on the car is better than spraying it on a wipe or towel...does W&G solvents ever get trapped and come back after the car is painted??
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I have a squirt bottle that I spray it on the car with, then wipe it to spread it around and wipe off with a second clean rag. The WGR will lift the contaminants off the surface but you need the second wipe to wipe them away, as opposed to just spreading them around. It needs to be wiped off before it evaporates. For filler spots, I get a shop towel damp with a few squirts and wipe it down with that and let it flash off. I too blow some air on it to help it along.
 
After looking at your pics in this thread and then the pics in your "build" thread I guess I am unclear on what I am looking at. It looks like filler but is that poly primer in that pic? If that's the case and its poly, then I would just go the epoxy 3-4 coat route. At least that way if you have to skim anything its safer putting filler on epoxy than putting it on 2k primer.

I typically wont go the 2K route until its sanding out completely flat with no sand throughs.
 
orangejuiced86 said:
After looking at your pics in this thread and then the pics in your "build" thread I guess I am unclear on what I am looking at. It looks like filler but is that poly primer in that pic? If that's the case and its poly, then I would just go the epoxy 3-4 coat route. At least that way if you have to skim anything its safer putting filler on epoxy than putting it on 2k primer.

I typically wont go the 2K route until its sanding out completely flat with no sand throughs.
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It is black epoxy, poly primer, some filler and a some small sand throughs to bare metal.
Yeah, just going to do 2-3 good coats of epoxy and then block that, skimming filler on anything that is needed.
Then just use the 2K (maybe reduced a little) to fill sanding scratches.
 
AAE said:
In my head, using 2k to fill scratches kinda scares me due to shrinkage. Would it be better to refine the scratches more to prevent that?
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Anything 180 and beyond you are good with 2K imho. If you wanna take it down to 220 so be it, but heck I have never had shrinkage with 150, but i always suggest 180.

80 grit and 2k....ya ive been burned.
 
My personal process is on a car that needs extensive work. I will skim the filler where necessary, block that with 80/100 grit. one coat of epoxy, then poly to do a final shape in of the car, maybe spot in poly where needed. I always sand poly with 150 and higher. After that I will seal it off with one coat of epoxy and then 2k for a final prime if I feel it is ready.

I like using black epoxy in between coats of primer to basically use it as a guide when im blocking in the next stage. Plus its a good way to insure that all of my bare spots are sealed up and I don't miss any.

Sometimes I will do 2 rounds of poly. I don't generally pile it on. I stick to 3 coats of superbuild. Its a lot, but I have read where some guys go 5-6 coats..

I have done things so many ways, but this process seems to work best for me and I feel I get the best results, for me anyways.
 
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