Sealer softening base

[Barry]

If alcohol and or xylene washes off your clear, alcohol attacks your base, you have issues and this thing needs to be stripped and real paint put on it.

I just soaked my red base that was 6 hours old, in 99% alcohol for 60 minutes and it did not touch the base???????????????
ANY of the spi clears after 24 hours you could soak in xylene for weeks on in and alcohol or mixed anyway you want and it will not touch it UNLESS you don't bring the panel up for air within 6 months.

Unless you start over, do not use any SPI on this car, Please.

 

[Bob Hollinshead]

sounds like a mess, the supplier that sent the clear labeled as hardener sure made a big mistake. I'd remove the majority of the material and start over.

 

[anotheridiot]

I feel bad for the situation you are in, but I really don't want to say any more than that because what you have there can blow up in a lot of different ways. If you are dead set on leaving existing coatings on that vehicle, heat and time are the only things that can help right now, followed by whatever coating will best isolate the soluble substrates from subsequent coatings. It's a risky proposition.

Yeah, that was what I thought the purpose of the sealer was, to isolate whatever was underneath from bleeding thru the next coat.

Live and learn I guess. We are almost down to filler and epoxy now. Plenty of bare metal so we will need to start back with an epoxy. Instead of another weekend of painting, its gonna be a long weekend of hopefully getting some filler primer built back up and blocked again.

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sounds like a mess, the supplier that sent the clear labeled as hardener sure made a big mistake. I'd remove the majority of the material and start over.

Yeah, their response was to replace the 166.00 kit and I guess try to fire the person that shipped the order. The hours of work we have into this that dollar amount does not make a dent. then they offered to give me a credit if I didnt want more materials and I asked why would I want a credit I am never gonna use. Cant put it all on them, should have missed the smell, but thats when I started searching for a new clear for now, so figured to switch to the sealer and filler primer for the next project.

Everything is back hard enough to sand without clogging paper, so I am getting a little more confident.

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if the coating store sells the same as everyone else why are you having problems ? you need to understand their are hundreds of different resins and not everyone uses the same . i dont think switching to an spi clear is going to help. putting a high grade resin on top of crap does not change it. we dont paint bridges or subway car here so i dont think you'll find your answers here. go back to coating store or mastercoat . they created this problem let them figure it out . sorry for your trouble but this is common with lower teir products.

I dont paint bridges or subway cars either, its 99% military pan and tilts on military vehicles, cameras on the ISS. I guess it was worth a try to see some of the reasonable answers here.

The reason switching to an SPI clear will help is because of the fact you can continue to buff a car with SPI clear, that tells me it does not cure hard like mylar like a Nason fast clear. At least that makes some sense.

 

[Chad.S]

I hate to say it but it really sounds like you have a mess on you're hands and I agree with what everybody else is saying here, this car needs to be stripped and start over..

I say strip it down, and make a project thread of what you are working on and let us all guide you through step by step as you proceed. I think you would have much better results in doing so.. The downside is you really need to strip it down before we can help much.

 

[anotheridiot]

If alcohol and or xylene washes off your clear, alcohol attacks your base, you have issues and this thing needs to be stripped and real paint put on it.

I just soaked my red base that was 6 hours old, in 99% alcohol for 60 minutes and it did not touch the base???????????????
ANY of the spi clears after 24 hours you could soak in xylene for weeks on in and alcohol or mixed anyway you want and it will not touch it UNLESS you don't bring the panel up for air within 6 months.

Unless you start over, do not use any SPI on this car, Please.

I guess the part you are missing to the situation I am/was in, you would have had to spray non activated clear on that base before knowing which problem has caused the base to soften. I mean, best Jerry McGuire imitation, you complete me. The non activated clear did not complete the basecoat in a basecoat/clearcoat paint job. Its not much different than not scuffing or wiping your basecoat before the clear goes on dont you think?

I mean the writeups in the technical data say I can spray that universal clear over anybodys stuff. I am pretty confident the non activated clear had plenty more solvents in it than xylol or alcohol. The only material that cut thru the base was urethane reducer, not denatured alcohol or xylol.

I appreciate your response though. Maybe this changes your thoughts on anyone elses basecoat.

 

[moparmusclecars]

strip and start over. you have a mess going on there. Spraying a waterborne down to try and seal it up is asking for problems. Strip to bare metal and start all over.