separating 3M 8115

shaneh

Promoted Users
I need to separate a joint between a quarter panel and a outer wheelhouse that was made with 3M 8115. 7 years ago when we rolled the fender lips we glued them to the outer wheelhouse as we rolled them. Damn stuff is stronger than the metal around it, of course. Will heat do it? I've heard 8115 is good to 600 degrees. Before I pull out the torch, thought I'd ask here. Thanks!
 
Oxy-acetylene torch is the only way I've ever done it. Mainly when I am doing a door skin with OEM panel bond on it. I usually try to keep the flame soft and as small as possible,and slightly carburizing (acetylene rich) and keep it moving. It will release when it hits the right temp. I can do it usually and it barely scorches the paint on the outside of the skin. You could try a heat gun but it'll take a long time if it will do it at all. Maybe 2 big heat guns at the same time would work.
 
Years ago the 3m would come apart at about 190. Try spot???
I never would use it for that reason, now if when they bought duramix, if they used their formula its not coming apart.
 
We sell a LOT of 8115, go through that stuff by the cases, it is some tough product, I am curious to see what works for you. keep us posted.
 
Thanks guys. I'm of to New Orleans on biz this morning and will give it a try when I get back Friday.
 
Many years ago I called 3m about this and was able to talk to a chemist and he told me that both 8115 and 8116 would release at 350 degrees. And if you look at the highlighted area down below, you can see where they performed strength tests. They did the tests at three different temperatures -40, 73, and 180 degrees. If you notice the failure psi was much higher at -40 degrees, and much lower at 180 degrees, as the adhesive gets softer with the higher temperature, and at 350 degrees in my own test it turned to dust. The adhesion test table is much easier to read in the link, it just wouldn't copy the same.

Also, as of May 2011 when I talked to the chemist he said that 8115 was the first one out and does not meet the car maker specs, if the 8116 fails it will be at the bond with the steel and any failure with 8115 will be the adhesive splitting.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...a-sheet-3mtm-panel-bonding-adhesive-08115.pdf



Document Library

TS Data Sheet 08115

Public

Rev:3 Status: Active

Effective: 05/10/2006

3M(TM) Automix(TM) Panel Bonding Adhesive 8115


Data Sheet

Performance Properties

Overlap Shear Adhesion


Adhesion to Various Substrates

Typical overlap shear strength of bonds with 10 to 12 mil bondlines are reported below as pounds per

square inch (psi). All materials except aluminum, E-Coat, and two-part epoxy primed steel, were

abraded with a 50 grit coated abrasive and solvent wiped with 3MGeneral Purpose Adhesive Cleaner,

P.N. 08984. Aluminum samples were abraded with a Scotch-BriteRivet Cleaning Disc, P.N. 07410

and solvent wiped. E-Coat samples were solvent wiped. No extra surface preparation was performed

on the epoxy primed steel. The bonds were allowed to cure for 7 days at 73°F and then tested on a

Sintech tester at a joint separation rate of 0.5 inches/minute.

*all adhesion values in psi

Substrate -40°F 73°F 180°F

0.057" Steel/0.057" Steel 4003(C) 3935(C)*

0.036" Steel/0.036" Steel 3309(C) 2904(C) 1259(A)

0.035" E-Coat Primed Steel/0.035" E-Coat Primed Steel 3514(S)

0.036" Galvanized Steel/0.036" Galvanized Steel 3008(C)

Two-Part Epoxy Primed 0.036" Steel/Two-Part Epoxy Primed 0.036" Steel 2183

0.062" Aluminum 6111/0.062" Aluminum 6111 3144(C)

0.063" Aluminum 5754/0.063" Aluminum 5754 2152(A)

0.057" Steel/0.062" Aluminum 6111 3795(C)

FRP/FRP 1283(S)

SMC/SMC 785(S)

ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene)/ABS 942(S)

Acrylic (Plexiglas)/Acrylic 345(A)

Polycarbonate (Lexan)/Polycarbonate 733(S)

PVC/PVC 578(A)

HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene)/HIPS 122(A)

Polystyrene/Polystyrene 116(A)

Polypropylene/Polypropylene 435(A)

High Density Polyethylene/HDPE 311(A)

Low Density Polyethylene/LDPE 176(A)

SBR/SBR 104(S)

*(S)=Substrate Failure

(A)=Adhesive Failure

(C)=Cohesive Failure
 
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Besides heat, other possible option for cutting it if you could get a blade to fit would be a multimaster type osculating tool with thin fine tooth blade. Get some cut U=& rest would just pry loose as 8115 needs some decent surface area for it's strength.
 
So got out my torch. It's hard to be exact because I had spot welded this flange in addition to using the 8115. But it seemed to release around 350-400 degrees according to my infrared heat gun. It didn't turn to dust. Just got gummy and oily and could be pulled apart.
 
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