Shop compressor air dryer for DIY resto projects

I plumbed up the compressor today. I ordered an m60 filter and a HF refrigerated drier. I noticed my old galvanized lines are full of crap. I will be using these lines. The m60 will be last in line though so nothing should be able to get through it. Should I be concerned?
 
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i am thinking about regulators now and am wondering if I need one on the wall anywhere. Wouldn't one on the gun be best and most accurate anyway? I have a bunch of SMC regulators laying around, but they were used in spot welding environments. I do not trust they are clean. It looks like he regulators go after filters, so any dirt in it would never be caught by my m60.

Do I need a wall regulator for painting or can I just have the one on my gun? I'm thinking at the gun will be fine. Why regulate it twice?
 
Picking up some hoses from the hydraulic hose shop tomorrow to finish getting the HF unit ready to roll.
 

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Is anyone out there yet? I'm getting these hoses tomorrow and think it's gonna be a mistake. I think I still need s copper coil before the dryer. The inlet temp is going to be over 140F right now being so close to the compressor. What happens if the temp is over 140F when entering the dryer? Does the drier not do its job as well, not do it's job at all, and/or get damaged? I was thinking a lot of water will also fall out into the tank when in the air enters the tank from the dryer.


Edit: so I still have questions on the inlet obviously, but what about the outlet to the compressor tank? I was going to have an another, expensive hydraulic hose- same as the inlet to the dryer. However, the only reason for the hydraulic hose was the high temperature of the air coming right out of the compressor. After leaving the dryer it should be cool, so shouldn't I just plumb from the dryer to the compressor tank with a regular air hose and barb setup to save a couple bucks?
 
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The way I set mine up there is roughly 50' of 3/4" copper between my compressor and the dryer along with two drop drain lines. It works fine. My final stage is a Devilbiss desiccant snake just in case something sneaks by. My dryer is after the tank, not between the tank and compressor.

I really don't think you need to chill the air before the dryer, just use a long run of copper pipe with a couple of drain drops.

Don
 
The refrigerated dryer does not go between the pump and tank! It plumbs at the end of your run of air line. Compressor tank -> Air pipe (copper or steel) -> Wall regulator (set @ 120psi or higher) -> Dryer -> M60 filter -> air hose -> Gun regulator -> paint gun.
 
Sharpe and motor guard both recommend at least 15 - 20 ft of air line between the compressor tank and the dryer
 
Where were you guys the last 2 weeks when I was posting these questions before I spent $100+ dollars and about 2 saturdays re-plumbing my compressor and setup? :(

What is the point of a wall regulator set at 120psi? That won't do anything. My thought was the refrigerated dryer should be the 1st stage, maximum cooler and more cooling would occur when it enters the tank. I thought this was a good idea because hopefully it keeps most of the water out of the tank. If I put it T the end of all my pipe though and right before my motorguard then I don't need a fancy hydraulic hose to run from compressor head to the drier and then back to the compressor tank.
 
You are on the wrong track. Better folks tell you late rather than too late.... Long run of copper between the tank and dryer is what is needed.

The regulator will come in handy if you want to dial down the pressure for air tools etc. Be sure to plumb in the dryer bypass per the installation instructions....

Don
 
You are not paying attention to what you are being told. You need to go to a professional shop and see for yourself. You have it setup wrong and when it is all said and done and you have it running do the math on what you spent and count your time (in hours) then come back and tell me you saved money by not doing what I said.

The air comming from you compressors head to the tank can reach 300-350 degrees, don't believe me, run your compressor for a little bit and I dare you to touch the copper tube feeding the tank. That is the tube you need to make longer to be a heat sink, before it enters the tank, that tube is what you should have replaced with what I told you to get. Had you done that you would have what is referred to as a "cool tank" moisture dropping to the bottom of the tank expelled by the timed auto drain. From there you go into your refrigerated air dryer via a 3-4 ft flexible air line from there you can do and go where you want. Your air dryer can only have 100-120psi in it so you will have to regulate the air before it enters the dryer.
 
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My tank is set to only put out 100 psi, so I don't think I need a reg, and I don't regulate air tools. Only paint guns and I have the reg at the tool usually.
 
I will say a regulator at the wall is unnecesary in your situation but it can do two things for you. A cheap devilbiss filter/regulator at the wall can be a final catch if your lines have crap in them. Second it can be turned down when you use an air brush. My little Iwatas down't like 100 psi fed into them so I can turn them down a little before the gun regulator.

All of your needed info is in this thread. Slow down, re-read, and implement it correctly and you'll be fine.
 
I guess I missed all the drama. HF drier been hooked up for 3 years or so - no problem other than the automatic drain getting clogged (replaced it with a 2' length of 1-1/2" pipe on the wall with drain valve). Cool dry air all time, even under continuous use sand blasting. Discharge from the tank to the drier with a bypass around the dryer - just like the instructions say. Regulator and separator after the dryer. (Never get any water out of the separator) Drain the compressor and the dryer drain on occasion is about it.

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Arrowhead said:
I guess I missed all the drama. HF drier been hooked up for 3 years or so - no problem other than the automatic drain getting clogged (replaced it with a 2' length of 1-1/2" pipe on the wall with drain valve). Cool dry air all time, even under continuous use sand blasting. Discharge from the tank to the drier with a bypass around the dryer - just like the instructions say. Regulator and separator after the dryer. (Never get any water out of the separator) Drain the compressor and the dryer drain on occasion is about it.

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So you have the dryer after the compressor TANK. So whenever you have the air knobs turned to go through the dryer your whole shop is getting the dried air? Are you hardlined from the tank to the drier? From your pics it looks like it, but it's all kinda hard to see.

Thanks for the help all of you!
 
Schroeder said:
So you have the dryer after the compressor TANK. So whenever you have the air knobs turned to go through the dryer your whole shop is getting the dried air? Are you hardlined from the tank to the drier? From your pics it looks like it, but it's all kinda hard to see.

Thanks for the help all of you!
Click to expand...

Yes to all above
 
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