Spraying 2K Urethane Primer

Thank you kindly for your suggestion on this problem. Right now,all that area around the small amount of metal showing has been sprayed with 2K urethane primer and all has been sanded with 400 and 600. Can I spray epoxy over this and nothing else or do I have to sand the epoxy and than shoot more 2K over the epoxy?
 
Ok guys,I have the body work and sanding all done on my chevy truck,ready for paint. I now am practicing on a old fender that I picked up at the junk yard. I have some questions about spraying the base coat and clear coat. Oh, first off,my spray gun needs a small filter that goes between the gun and the cup.Its a mesh type filter.I found one here at a local store but its not quite the same.The stem of the new filter is a little shorter.It does go in the gun ok though. I wonder if it would make a difference.Let me know what you think about this filter. This gun belonged to my brother but he passed away a few years ago so his son gave it to me. My nephew told me it was made by a company named Astro. Anyway,It did pretty good on the primer so I changed the tip from 2.0 to a 1.4 to spray the base and clear. Question: The paint that I will be using is called Quasar Light blue metallic.Its the origional color as when I bought it new in 94.It will be a base coat/clear coat type. I know that I am suppose to read the data sheet on the paint itself and follow the rules there but I still have a question since most of you guys are well experienced on this matter. I have heard that all base coats are a 1.1 mixture,1 part paint,one part reducer.However,this paint calls for a 2.1 mixture. Also,I have read here that some of you guys use activator on the base.Since the paint does not say to use activator,should I still go ahead and use it? If so,how much. Its 65 to 70 degree here so should I use slow or medium reducer? What air pressure do you guys use at the inlet of the gun? I am thinking between 22 and 25 psi. Are there any tips you guys can give me regarding shooting a metallic paint? I will try my best not to have too many runs or orange peel but since its my first rodeo,I am sure I'll have some of both. Last question,do I have to spray the clear after the flash time of the 2 coats or can I wait till the next day to do it? I am sorry for the long post but I am trying to learn as much as I can before I do all this and I figure the only way I am going to accomplish this is by asking questions to the ones that have Been There,Done That. Thanks to all of you for your help with my project.
 
Is the ASTRO gun HVLP?
Just curious, I have an old one and it is a suction canister type, maybe they make HVLP now.

Since you have a practice panel, best thing is to practice.
Use Barry's paint gun settings as a starting point then refine.
But you should practice shooting base on the practice fender with the same substrate that is on the vehicle, then you can see how it is laying down, coverage etc.

I would definitely wait to do the clear the next day.
 
Don’t use that gun filter. They cause problems.

Not all base is 1:1. One ounce of clear activator per sprayable quart of base. 50-75% overlap when spraying metallic base.

I would probably up the air pressure when shooting clear.

Don
 
Thanks to both of you for your suggestions . I really appreciate it very much. Dean, according to my nephew, he bought this Astro hvlp
For his dad in 2015. It seems like a pretty good gun. I did buy a quart of the paint and clear that I will be using on my truck to practice with on the practice fender. Yes, I did read Barry's guide on how to set the gun and I will go by that and if I have to do a few touches on the settings,I will do that accordingly. Don, do you think 30psi would be good enough for the clear? Oh,by the way,should I start a new thread on my subject since this one is getting pretty long? Just wondering.
 
Thanks to both of you for your suggestions . I really appreciate it very much. Dean, according to my nephew, he bought this Astro hvlp
For his dad in 2015. It seems like a pretty good gun. I did buy a quart of the paint and clear that I will be using on my truck to practice with on the practice fender. Yes, I did read Barry's guide on how to set the gun and I will go by that and if I have to do a few touches on the settings,I will do that accordingly. Don, do you think 30psi would be good enough for the clear? Oh,by the way,should I start a new thread on my subject since this one is getting pretty long? Just wondering.
It will vary with the gun but that is a good starting point imho.

Don
 
Thank you.
You are welcome.
I've never shot metallic base, yet. I'm a little intimidated by it to be honest.
My understanding is that you have to get the coverage very consistent, otherwise you will see stripes or splotches in the final finish.
You might consider doing the truck in sections.
It is going to be very difficult to "walk the truck" from end of the bed to the front of the fender, for each pass.
And you don't want to start/stop spraying at the edge of each panel (bed, door, fender) as you will get too much paint at the edges.
You could make it easier by doing the bed in one session, let it dry overnight, mask it off and do the cab/fenders in another.
Don't leave the masking tape and or paper/plastic on fresh paint overnight, get it off as soon as possible. (I made that mistake!)

Also, you'll want to figure out how to get very even and consistent passes on the roof and hood.
Consistent paint coverage means consistent speed, distance and gun angle.
What will you need to achieve that on those panels? Ladder? Take the hood off?
Try practicing making passes on each section, with your gun attached to the hose (with no paint of course) and see how it is going to work.

Just some thoughts.
 
Great advice Dean. I think I will take the hood off and spray it separately. The roof is also going to be a challenge so I have to figure that one out too.
 
When I sprayed my first project I wanted gun metal grey with a dove grey vinyl top. I forgot who told me but what they said is when spraying metallic the second coat should be perpendicular to the first to avoid “tiger stripes” which are areas where the metallic is a little more pronounced than other areas. This was single stage paint as well. I followed that advice and I only had one little run which I carefully sanded out though you’re not supposed to sand single stage metallic cause it shows. Somehow mine didn’t show. I had people asked me where I had the care painted including my bodyman nephew! I took all inquiries as compliments since they were sincere and not derisive. Felt pretty good about that and the dove grey and the gunmetal grey was a standout! Made my Monarch look quite classy....
 
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