Spraying over single stage?

jsm1947

jsm1947

Promoted Users
I have a truck that currently has single stage. This won't be a show-quality job, just changing the color. It is currently blue, going red. I know I'm able to spray over SS, but I am going to do some bodywork to make sure that it's straight as possible. Here's what I'm thinking...
1. SPI primer 2k, then block...or high build?
2. When sufficiently blocked, 2k Epoxy to seal
3. Base Coat
4. Euro Clear

Sounds about right?

John
 
texasking said:
Need some more information before a recommendation can be made. SS can be a lot of things. Maybe some pictures, history of what is on it now and what is under it. etc.
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I'm purchased it with the single stage on it. I'm not sure exactly what is under it. What kind of information would you be looking for? What part of Texas are you "King" of? I'm in San Antonio
 
Is there any obvious problems with the paint, or obvious signs of shoddy workmanship, like wavy filler repairs, heavy sandscratches, pinholes, bubbles, overspray on trim that should have been removed, etc.? Signs like this throw up a red flag, telling me it definitely needs to be stripped. Take a thinner rag and see if any color comes off with it. If it does, nothing decent can be sprayed over it, anyway. I'm just a free peasant with the last name of King.
 
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OK, now I see your train of thought. The body work looks pretty good and the only reason I'm repainting was because when I purchased it was keyed up. And I don't like the blue.
I'm pretty sure it's a catalyzed single stage, but I'll check when I get home.
I've actually already stripped the bed and and it was a pain in the butt. It appeared that there was high build primer and 2k, but again, I can't be sure.
I attached a few pics as requested.

John



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I was thinking of going with Barry's dark red over red oxide epoxy to give me his candy apple red...
 
I had a totally different picture in my mind of what you were working on.:oops: Personally, even though everything looks pretty good, I would strip it. I can't ever remember stripping something without finding at least one thing that would have compromised longevity. If you are dead set against stripping it, sand it thoroughly with 180 and spray 2 coats of epoxy before doing your bodywork, would be my suggestion. SPI dark red over red epoxy looks great, and covers really well.
 
Totally different, like worse? o_O
I am dead set against stripping mostly because of the body work. I spray everyday, but small items and my bodywork is non existent. I don't have the time to completely reshape the cab. It's going to be a daily and probably see its share of beating. After maybe 5 to 10, ill strip, redo suspension and repaint.
 
jsm1947 said:
Totally different, like worse? o_O
I am dead set against stripping mostly because of the body work. I spray everyday, but small items and my bodywork is non existent. I don't have the time to completely reshape the cab. It's going to be a daily and probably see its share of beating. After maybe 5 to 10, ill strip, redo suspension and repaint.
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If there are no real issues that are showing(bubbling etc..) then id just buzz it down real good with 180, maybe block the existing paint and use that as a sort of build primer and then epoxy it, then some 2k after that or just smash a few coats of epoxy and call it good. Let it cure for awhile, block it out with 320 just to make sure all is within reason for what you want and move on to 400 and paint. Sure stripping it would be the best plan if it was within your budget and/or timeframe but sadly I have seen too many projects get lost when things went too far.

If the truck looks clean and you are happy with it, then don't go looking for problems unless you for sure want to deal with them! Once you sand the existing finish down the couple of coats of epoxy will lock it down and create a barrier between the new and old finish.
 
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orangejuiced86 said:
If there are no real issues that are showing(bubbling etc..) then id just buzz it down real good with 180, maybe block the existing paint and use that as a sort of build primer and then epoxy it, then some 2k after that or just smash a few coats of epoxy and call it good. Let it cure for awhile, block it out with 320 just to make sure all is within reason for what you want and move on to 400 and paint. Sure stripping it would be the best plan if it was within your budget and/or timeframe but sadly I have seen too many projects get lost when things went too far.

If the truck looks clean and you are happy with it, then don't go looking for problems unless you for sure want to deal with them! Once you sand the existing finish down the couple of coats of epoxy will lock it down and create a barrier between the new and old finish.
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"Sadly I have seen too many projects get lost when things went too far"...
My goodness, how that phrase hit home. I stripped this paint YEARS ago. Got too big to handle, put on backshelf to run my business, take care of wife and kiddos.
 
My last winter project of a quickie paint job on my El Camino was planned to be a buzz, epoxy, block and go. Along with a couple metal repairs behind rear wheels and weld up some light holes. Doing the metal repairs, I ran into lacquer primer with Bondo laid on top of that. And many other surprises. Ended up stripping the whole car. I got the paint up to about how hot it would be on a summer day with my propane torch and the paint peeled off in sheets.
One never knows what;s hiding underneath. I should have posted the job here also, don't know why I didn't. The only primer used was SPI epoxy, no high builds.

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/69-el-camino-quickie-paint-job.1134235/
 
jsm1947 said:
Totally different, like worse? o_O
I am dead set against stripping mostly because of the body work. I spray everyday, but small items and my bodywork is non existent. I don't have the time to completely reshape the cab. It's going to be a daily and probably see its share of beating. After maybe 5 to 10, ill strip, redo suspension and repaint.
Click to expand...
Just remember!!
Like TEX said (in my words)
Any weak spots will show up down the road.
 
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