metlmunchr
Member
I've got a 69 Vette, owned since 71. In the early 80's I repainted it. Took it down to bare glass then due to cracks in the paint that went all the way thru the original paint and primer. Shot it with Featherfill and blocked to get rid of the waves. Dupont lacquer primer over that, and lacquer topcoat.
Needs paint again. Thought about going back to the original burgundy color, but have decided to use SPI black bc and universal clear. Planning to use Shine's method of all epoxy for priming and filling. SPI for that too.
Will the heat gun and razor blade routine work on lacquer? And once I've stripped the topcoat, should I go back to the DA to get rid of the primer and Featherfill? Or will the razor remove some of that too?
Once I'm near the bare glass, what grit paper should I be using to clear the remaining stuff off to provide the proper tooth for the epoxy?
Is it okay to use wax and grease remover on the bare glass? Or should it just be washed with dish detergent prior to the first coat of epoxy? If wax and grease remover, should I use the waterborne stuff or the solvent based?
I've got one of the 2.2 Vaper guns I've used in the past to shoot S-W industrial epoxy primer, so that oughta cover me for spraying the primer. Since my only "good" gun is a JGA, I'm planning to buy something new for the base and clear. Recommendations on a good gun and tip size appreciated as well, and hopefully one that's capable of handling both the base and the clear.
And one final question. When I redid the car before, I stripped the jambs with Dupont lacquer removing compound (think that was the name). Went back with lacquer primer and topcoat, no featherfill there. Would it be safe to scuff the jambs and prime with epoxy, or should they be stripped? The lacquer removing stuff did a good job in liquefying the original paint in those areas, but that stuff was some pretty evil chemical according to what I later learned. I'm thinking methylene chloride, but its been a long time. I do remember if a drop or two gets on your hand, it will absorb thru the skin and you can taste it within a minute or two. Would just as soon avoid it if possible. Any tips on mechanical stripping of the jambs (if necessary) appreciated, such as roloc on a die grinder or whatever.
Thanks in advance.......... Cliff
Needs paint again. Thought about going back to the original burgundy color, but have decided to use SPI black bc and universal clear. Planning to use Shine's method of all epoxy for priming and filling. SPI for that too.
Will the heat gun and razor blade routine work on lacquer? And once I've stripped the topcoat, should I go back to the DA to get rid of the primer and Featherfill? Or will the razor remove some of that too?
Once I'm near the bare glass, what grit paper should I be using to clear the remaining stuff off to provide the proper tooth for the epoxy?
Is it okay to use wax and grease remover on the bare glass? Or should it just be washed with dish detergent prior to the first coat of epoxy? If wax and grease remover, should I use the waterborne stuff or the solvent based?
I've got one of the 2.2 Vaper guns I've used in the past to shoot S-W industrial epoxy primer, so that oughta cover me for spraying the primer. Since my only "good" gun is a JGA, I'm planning to buy something new for the base and clear. Recommendations on a good gun and tip size appreciated as well, and hopefully one that's capable of handling both the base and the clear.
And one final question. When I redid the car before, I stripped the jambs with Dupont lacquer removing compound (think that was the name). Went back with lacquer primer and topcoat, no featherfill there. Would it be safe to scuff the jambs and prime with epoxy, or should they be stripped? The lacquer removing stuff did a good job in liquefying the original paint in those areas, but that stuff was some pretty evil chemical according to what I later learned. I'm thinking methylene chloride, but its been a long time. I do remember if a drop or two gets on your hand, it will absorb thru the skin and you can taste it within a minute or two. Would just as soon avoid it if possible. Any tips on mechanical stripping of the jambs (if necessary) appreciated, such as roloc on a die grinder or whatever.
Thanks in advance.......... Cliff