Stripping question

[Vehicle A.D.D.]

Hey all, new to the site. I have looked around on it and I am still looking around on it to try and learn what I can. So I got a 65 Mustang and I am trying to decide how to start the project. It has the original paint, and then a coat sprayed over that that is flaking off. It has your typical floor rust, probably cowl, and then battery tray. Very little around the bottom as well. What I am trying to decide is should I pay $1400 to have it media blasted, or should I just use a variable speed polisher like the Dealt DWP849X to sand everything. I really dont know how I should decide apart from the cost. I will post pics of the car when I get home.

Thanks
Mike

 

[Vehicle A.D.D.]

Here are some pictures of it. I tried to get the phots of the rust and damage that I know of. I also shot where I thihnk rust would normally be. I think overall the car is in good shape...

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

If you plan on doing a quality restoration then have it media blasted - but be advised there is a lot more rust there than meets the eye.
I start all projects with a digital camera, note pad and tape measure.
Take pictures of everything and how it is assembled, if sheet metal is to be replaced be sure to measure critical distances to brackets, body lines, side marker lights, decals, etc. Make detailed notes for parts that need to be replaced or purchased new, a list of parts that need to be repaired and any other valuable information.
When disassembling the car have a boat load of zip lock baggies with pieces of paper in them so you can bag, tag and catalog every nut and screw and plastic do-dad that you remove from the car.
Don't trust your memory on these things because you may find a year or more will go by before you ever get to reassemble the car.

 

[Vehicle A.D.D.]

Yeah, I figured there is more rust than I can see at the moment. I also know alll to well about taking crap apart and not remembering how it goes together. I have been building jeeps and rockcrawlers for several years, I have just never done body repair work. When building things from scratch, its easier to just get stuff that isnt rusted lol... Appreciate any and all advice I can get though...

 

[crashtech]

Check out Rusty's threads, he is a real Mustang guru!

http://www.spiuserforum.com/search.php?searchid=161301

 

[Vehicle A.D.D.]

Yeah, I have been following his stuff on here and vfm

 

[Senile Old Fart]

There is a reason they are called rustangs.

My 65 didnt look as bad as yours and it had rust everywhere once I started working on it.
One thing lead to another until, well you know how that story goes.

Have fun, spend lots of money!

 

[Bondoskimmer]

[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;18942]If you plan on doing a quality restoration then have it media blasted - but be advised there is a lot more rust there than meets the eye.
I start all projects with a digital camera, note pad and tape measure.
Take pictures of everything and how it is assembled, if sheet metal is to be replaced be sure to measure critical distances to brackets, body lines, side marker lights, decals, etc. Make detailed notes for parts that need to be replaced or purchased new, a list of parts that need to be repaired and any other valuable information.
When disassembling the car have a boat load of zip lock baggies with pieces of paper in them so you can bag, tag and catalog every nut and screw and plastic do-dad that you remove from the car.
Don't trust your memory on these things because you may find a year or more will go by before you ever get to reassemble the car.[/QUOTE]

Good post. I use a sharpie to write on my baggies.

 

[NoobDude]

Good post. I use a sharpie to write on my baggies.

That's how I have done it as well but have noticed non permanent markers tend to live up to their names...

On another yet topic specific note has anyone else use electrolysis much? I'm about to embark on a large scale experiment with the bed panels. I've found in my small scale (26 gal tank) efforts that the paint is lifting off the small parts I've been working on at least 80% or more is coming loose even on the clean metal making the sanding way easier so I'm about to build a tank that will hold the fenders and then the sides in hopes of cutting down the mess and time spent with the grinder.

 

[Mule]

X2 on the media blast. I am 5 years into resto-ing one without having it blasted professionally and have kicked myself for at least the last two years for doing it this way. I'm over the hump now, and have bought my first two gallons of spi !

Watch as much of the cleanup as you can, but spend the $1400, you'll be glad you did.

 

[Bob Hollinshead]

You could do this in sections, remove/strip/repair/primer the front sheetmetal first. Then do the doors and decklid, then the tub. Bolt on parts can be brought to the blaster easily and when it comes time to do the tub it will make the job of getting it ready for primer that much easier. Keep the project manageable, oftentimes when a persone blows one of these cars completely apart and tries to work on everything at one time it becomes overwhelming and they also lose direction.

 

[Senile Old Fart]

Bob's advice is as good as it gets.
Hope your project doesnt go this far in tear down. . . . lol.

 

[Vehicle A.D.D.]

Bob's advice is as good as it gets.
Hope your project doesnt go this far in tear down. . . . lol.

Yikes! I hope not. I dont know, the biggest think is finding all the rust and the bottom coating. I am actually leaning towards maybe building a rotisserie and just taking all the bolt on parts I can off and then doing like Bob said and do it in sections with just a sander Im not to comfortable with using any kind of chemical stripper because I dont want it to come back and bite me in the ass if I dont get it nuetralized. I think on a rotisserie I can do a section at a time and take my time with it. Once I get all the rust repaired, then I can completely sand everything and get it ready for paint and wont have to worry about it sitting in bare metal,