Substitute for PPG 894

Hok has changed to Shimrin 2 and recommends a 2:1 essentially.
I recently got a pt of PBC43-HP Black Pearl with the same tech sheet but have the option of a 1:1 depending on the coverage I prefer. They do state the 4hr window and use an intercoat clear if longer. Which is likely do to the product changing for voc or such.
I did 1:1 that sprayed fine and good coverage. Hok is a thick base,mine was,and should shoot fine at 1:1
Going to be up to the painter which he is comfortable with. No ill intent ment so keep your matches in the box boys.
Here's the sheet. Enjoy.
 

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Yeah,Jim blew everybody's mind with the 'face' helmet. He's a Master for sure. I would always try to replicate his work and he was always willing to share. I will be eternally grateful for his time.
And that Blue & Silver slash Suzuki with the Cobalt over White graphics on top of Black striping.
I got pictures still someplace. That was a piece of Art.
 
Barry said:
Here is some of Jimc's work i bought 15 to 20 years ago for our both at shows.
I would not know where to start.
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Jim is beyond most of us here. Completely different level. That is art IMO. The wood grain Jim has shown examples of here is art IMO as well. The forum is lucky to have a guy like Jim who is willing to share his knowledge.
 
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dhutton01 said:
SPI reducer will lay down nicer than HOK reducer. Nothing better.

Don
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Amen to that. I used to think the gold standard was PPG DT reducers. SPI outperforms DT, no contest. Spraying DBC with SPI's reducers makes it feel like a completely different product versus using DT with DBC. And it's 40% less expensive.
 
Anyone use Spi reducer in Nason base?
Nason Silver metallic was probably THE Worst I've ever used. And I tried.. And if the Spi reducer would help with It.
Always used Chromabase for metallic and Barry schooled me on the Basemaker secrets and never had an issue using spi reducer and if in doubt,activate it.
Just wondering cause I still have some Nason leftovers.
I use spi reducer in Nason airbrushing without issue but haven't in a full size gun.
I think It will work with about anything except S&W/MS/NAPA. That paint is just wrong...
My wife worked at NAPA and brought home all kinds of It but no reducer or cat,so I told her,no more.
 
I have used SPI reducer in Nason Ful-Base, but when I did, it was activated with clear hardener since the Nason Ful-Base tech sheet they provided calls for activator.
 
geez guys thanks.

i think with most bases that i have used, they spray 100 times better with spi reducer. wanda for instance, if i use wanda reducer it sprays like crap. over the years i have been hok, diamont and wanda. the one constant though is that i used spi reducer in all of them. never have i used the reducer made for it other than to test. this may be the reason why when i switched from diamont to wanda i couldnt tell a difference between the two.
 
Would that be Nason 483 series or an SPI cat or does it matter which with the Full-Base ?

No Jim, Thank You. BTW, I still have 2-8oz Majestic Blue kk's unopened... never did really know why hok recalled it.
 
mike that majestic blue was a great color. i have a tank half that i have hanging on my wall painted in that color. it was only out for maybe a month before hok got rid of it. if you open yours up you will find out why. it will be solid on the can bottom. hok couldn't keep it in solution. it would form a rock hard chunk on the can bottom and you really cant break it up or get it to redissolve.
 
MikeK said:
Would that be Nason 483 series or an SPI cat or does it matter which with the Full-Base ?...
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I never wanted to spring for the Nason activator since it's in a quart afaik and the Nason jobs I used to do were cheap stuff. The SPI clear activator (Euro is what I usually use) seemed to work just fine, seen one of the jobs years later and it looked great.
 
Thanks crash. Use to get it in 1/2 pints but probably not now. Yeah it's cheap but not bad for what it is.
Your right Jim. I opened 1 and the liquid had a nice color but there is a quarter inch maybe in the bottom that won't even begin to mix. Bummer. Thanks for the update on why.
Anything out now anywhere close to It?
It's like between Cobalt & Oriental which I mix together anyway for a midtone Blue.
Like Apple & Brandywine just for something different.
 
Your testing my memory now mike but i used to have a mix of i believe 2pt cobalt and 1 part oriental which was a super close match. It may have been the other way around on the mix. I dont remember for sure. Youll have to do some testing. That has to be 15 years ago
 
Yeah you got it backwards I think. Cobalt is strong and Oriental is probably one of the weakest in their Line because I always have to go heavy on it to get color quicker.Heck man,when I started back 3 years ago,couldn't even remember half the tricks and mix's so I understand. Glad I still had all my notes and product. Blew Barry's mind with all this Old spi that still works as good as if I got it last week. Some was from Baker. Yeah !!

The Cobalt over White over Black still kills Today. When I repaint my p/u That is going on with some of my barb wire.
Thanks so much my friend.
 
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