Table top epoxy question

EddieF

Top Banana
I've used tropical hardener but it still kicks too quick when thick.
Ordered generic to try, have it end of week. No slow hardener option.
1- Anyone try less hardener (say 25% less) and still cure 100% ?
2- What could i reduce it with so it levels quicker & i'd do multiple coats.

I want to level where my wheels park in garage. I have wood strips where front wheel goes i roll over kinda like what's used for centering car for 1 man operation shops. Tail of my car is always 2" from overhead door this way.

Leveling reason is i adjust camber sometimes & guessing/calculating to makeup for pitch ain't cool for checking afterwards & don't like doing it twice.

See pitch on level. I put it on rim face to check camber, rotor face (with a few nuts tight) & jackstands & scissor jack cause they don't bleed down.

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uhhh, im really not sure what your trying to do here but it sounds like your looking to level your garage floor? how far out is the floor? a table top epoxy will generally cure very slow. usually still soft but starts to kick around the 3-6hr mark @ 1/8" thick and 75 deg or so. how thick of a pour are you doing? most good table epoxies will do 2" thick pours in one shot. you cannot put less hardener in an epoxy and you also cannot reduce it to do what you are doing. they are 100% solids with zero solvents in them or it will crack. table epoxies are generally set up to be very thin. with all this said, a garage floor is a big area to use epoxy for leveling. it would cost a fortune if the floor was out significantly. you will be far cheaper to get concrete floor lever.
 
I'd frame something like 10" x 6' out of pvc trim, caulked to floor. Not whole floor :)
Thanks for reply, figured you'd know. So acetone wouldn't thin it? I figured if i got it thin enough, i could use less build per coat.
Total depth is 1/2" to maybe 3/4" on low end, nothing much on other.
 
you should be able to do a 3/4" pour in one shot no problem. what epoxy are you using? acetone would thin it but you cant do that. the epoxy will shrink and crack if there are solvents added to it. there is really no need to thin the epoxy. if you were to do it in layers how much thinner that 1/8" do you need? these epoxies are made to self level at 1/8" thick.
 
I fell asleep typing reply last night lol. I used similar to West sys. Now i'm trying generic.
1/8" is fine for shallow high side. Everything i've done more then 1/4" gets over 250F, 1.5" once 320F smokes & warps.
Brainstorm, pour deep end 1st & do multiple 1/8" pours curing in between. It's been hot here all yr.
Thanks for heads up cracking evaporating acetone issue.
The chrome trim on that Caddy is filled with epoxy soaked cloth. I figure less prone to door dings forever.
Being spi site, props to Universal clear you see on car.
 
Ok the issue is that the epoxy you are using is not a table top epoxy. That is laminating resin and not made for casting. You need to get the the right stuff
 
are you putting that level on a straight edge that runs the width of the wheels?

seems like self leveling compound would be the product to use to level out a slab
 
In previous photo, level is just laying on ground, yes i use 8' aluminum square tube for screen enclosures for straight edge.
Leveling the whole floor would be nice but previous owner pained it 3x, i'd have to strip, grind or sand, etch, way more then my to-do list can handle :)
It's just for fun, if it works, costs $65 gallon kit + $10 for pvc trim frame. If not, not.
Floor's pitched towards door too. I could add that to rear mold height if i really want level.
Or just make shoebox size forms for all 4 wheels finished level heights & remove them when not needed.
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