Temporary coating

For areas with welds that sanding may not reach everything, a small rotary wire brush approx medium stiffness in a drill will get in deeper than sanding will, especially if hit from multiple angles. Even laying a dry clean towel over areas between working sessions helps keep raw metal clean,
Particularly for floorboard areas not in plain sight later, tiny pinholes aren't the end of the world. epoxy can seep into the holes & seal. Think someone mentioned brushing. I wouldn't be caught dead brushing onto an exposed body panel to save from spraying, but a floorboard or inner panel is fine & can help force it into pinholes. Curing to full hardness is greatly extended in spots that are brushed on thick, but for out of sight areas that you're not trying to rush sanding & body filler, etc, --so what. It'll get there as long as it gets a couple of days not going under min temps. as mentioned, heat lamp,even cheap 250w screw in infared bulb & checking with IR temp gun will go a long way towards getting important initial cure in. Temp can be hotter after dry to touch cure approx 120 to 150. 160 to 170 risks bubbling finish.
Again as others said, don't overthink the need to hurry up & coat a part on a vehicle not in service. Real world projects al take extended time & even professional shops have raw metal sitting for weeks to months before a reclean & coating.

The welding thing is a whole subject on it's own. extra lighting at welded area & magnifiers in helmet or reading glasses if you're over 40 like most of us here can be a big help. If I'm chasing mig pinholes where it really matters, backlighting area for inspection & fine red sharpie marks will highlight spots to rehit will help.
Thanks for the tips
 
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