Thinner coats

serjik911

Promoted Users
Hello,
Yesterday did a test. I checked thickness of coats before applying clear coat. Blend part. The part was already painted, so it had around 5 mils. After applying 2 coats of clear, next day I got 9 mils. Did another test of just one coat clear and that gave me 1.8 mils. If I'm not wrong, total of clear supposed to be 2-2.5? I am not greedy, but I don't like the idea that I put 2 times more clear than it supposed to be for repair painting.
So how to make it thinner? Sprayed with sata rp 1.3 at 29 psi. I had fluid all open, but moved the gun pretty fast.
I think I need more reducer? I already had Euro 4/1/1.5-2 . Should I reduce more? Will I have some problem after drying ? Is it better to spray with fast reducer or slow reducer?
Thank you
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Personally, I would turn the fluid knob in a little before reducing it more to reduce mils. 2-2.5 is minimum for longevity, nothing wrong with more.
So 2 ways : to reduce the clear and and turn fluid on, right?
How do I know that I reduced too much? And how do I know I closed the fluid too much?
 
Closing the fluid too much will cause dry spray. It will also reduce orange peel until you get to the point of it being too dry. Too much reducer can cause dieback, solvent pop, and runs when pushing it. I've always used the slowest reducer possible for conditions, which works really well with the fluid turned in.
 
Closing the fluid too much will cause dry spray. It will also reduce orange peel until you get to the point of it being too dry. Too much reducer can cause dieback, solvent pop, and runs when pushing it. I've always used the slowest reducer possible for conditions, which works really well with the fluid turned in.
If I reduce it, do I need to play with pressure? Or just leave it at 29?
 
Sata 1.3 RP open fluid open all the way? o_O That is hosing it on. If you are concerned about material savings dialing in the fluid nozzle would be the place to start. I shoot pretty fast and no way could I use the RP with the fluid open all the way. What works for me with Euro and the Sata RP 1.3 is 4:1:1, Slow reducer, full fan, fluid 1.5 turns out (from fully closed). Add a touch of Retarder (cap full) and it lays down great for me. Somewhere around 30 psi to the gun. Test on the wall, when it atomizes nicely, it's right.
 
Sata 1.3 RP open fluid open all the way? o_O That is hosing it on. If you are concerned about material savings dialing in the fluid nozzle would be the place to start. I shoot pretty fast and no way could I use the RP with the fluid open all the way. What works for me with Euro and the Sata RP 1.3 is 4:1:1, Slow reducer, full fan, fluid 1.5 turns out (from fully closed). Add a touch of Retarder (cap full) and it lays down great for me. Somewhere around 30 psi to the gun. Test on the wall, when it atomizes nicely, it's right.
You got 5000, now I have 5500 O pattern, wonder if it's too different. I'll try 1.5 open, with slow reducer. As I understand, thinner coat will dry faster, so I'll need slower reducer.
 
You got 5000, now I have 5500 O pattern, wonder if it's too different. I'll try 1.5 open, with slow reducer. As I understand, thinner coat will dry faster, so I'll need slower reducer.
The "O" pattern is the "normal" or "traditional" type pattern. 5500 "O" sprays essentially the same as the 5000. I've used one a little (jobber loaned their Demo to me) but didn't see the need to spend the money as my 5000 RP and 2000 RP both shoot it essentially the same as the 5500.
 
As a general rule, the thinner the material, the less pressure you need to atomize.
So,if for example I have a task to spray with super low pressure I need to reduce stuff a lot. But there suppose to be some point where that will become ugly, right? I can't reduce without loosing something in quality, right? What is the cons of over reducing material?
 
Cons of overreduction in clear are lack of film build, loss of gloss, dieback, runs, extended flash times, delamination, and solvent pop. I sometimes overreduce clear to trim parts with low pressure to kill some gloss, and speed up handling time due to lack of film build.
 
Sata 1.3 RP open fluid open all the way? o_O That is hosing it on. If you are concerned about material savings dialing in the fluid nozzle would be the place to start. I shoot pretty fast and no way could I use the RP with the fluid open all the way. What works for me with Euro and the Sata RP 1.3 is 4:1:1, Slow reducer, full fan, fluid 1.5 turns out (from fully closed). Add a touch of Retarder (cap full) and it lays down great for me. Somewhere around 30 psi to the gun. Test on the wall, when it atomizes nicely, it's right.
I run Euro at 4:1:2.....I usually go 1.5-1.75 turns out from closed with my prolite. If I ran that gun all the way open it would all be on the floor! lol
 
So,if for example I have a task to spray with super low pressure I need to reduce stuff a lot. But there suppose to be some point where that will become ugly, right? I can't reduce without loosing something in quality, right? What are the cons of over reducing material?
We did extreme testing for mills many years ago with a jobber that's paints and three dealerships with five different. Painters.
Mils per coat came in 1.2 to 4.7 or 4.8, depending on the painter.
I averaged about 4 to 4.2 myself with 2000 RP 1.4.
This is why we say even with the production clear if insurance work just two coats as we worry about whites
And light silvers changing if butted up to a thin factory coat.

Mils? The key to SPI is all clears are flexible at 4 inches thick that. Is your strength and stone chip resistance.
That explains why majors say 3 coats max and use a flex agent, and we communicate 9 coats and flex is a waste of money.

Rest is up to you if you want to reduce, do the math as to the number of mils you get vs. what you want.
5% or maybe 10% max.
Lower air 1 to 2 lbs for that figure.
 
I also have a Sata 5000 rp with 1.3 and do as Chris with gun settings but i am all over the place with air pressure and reduction to adjust to the job. Just did a mirror at 23 lbs and 4:1::1.5 Like they say you can make this clear do what you want it to do. I do move on the fast side. Heck don't over think it just go with the flow Ha Ha
 
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