Those who have tinted SPI white to GM Olympic white Really need help..

Barry said:
A drop of black to white makes gray but be careful.
Example 300 gallons of gray epoxy.
43 gallons of white
1.012 gallon of black.

In other words, drop at a time off paint stick and super mix before adding more.
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Yes that is the plan a small amount at a time. Still a little frustrated with it .. I was hoping to just mix and shoot.
 
Ok small update: That formula that was on the side of my old can was for 3 quarts. After the formula was referenced turns out to be the same exact formula that they did for me in the pint cans.. There is no red in that formula.. So they did pull up a red formula for me for a pint. It's the smallest they could do.

it is : DMD1684 white 593.7g
DMD648 weak black 14.8g
DMD622 red 0.7g
DMD642 yellow 0.6g
DMD1607 blue 0.2g

That is what they gave me minus the white so I will try to figure out how to use it unless someone has a thought.. I also got some red oxide in a can about 5 grams .. No master tinter there anymore so kinda on my own.. I guess I could weigh the tints out on my scale and cut it in half for the 8 oz mix that was mentioned.. Trying to keep the amount of base to use for testing to a minimum.. I only have so much.
 
That formula will be a much cleaner white. Much less black and blue. It definitely won't be green. I would just add the 593.7g of the spi white to make a pint. It will be much closer to what you want.
 
texasking said:
That formula will be a much cleaner white. Much less black and blue. It definitely won't be green. I would just add the 593.7g of the spi white to make a pint. It will be much closer to what you want.
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JUst looking at that I thought a pint was only 16oz.. That 593 equates to about 20plus oz. or am I reading that wrong? The pigment from that formula does a have redish /brown look to it verses the other with the green.
 
Scott M said:
JUst looking at that I thought a pint was only 16oz.. That 593 equates to about 20plus oz. or am I reading that wrong? The pigment from that formula does a have redish /brown look to it verses the other with the green.
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I didn't catch that, but you're right. Makes me really start to wonder if your jobber knows what he is doing. They gave you the toners in a pint can and told you it was a pint formula?
 
I've never had to be at the mercy of a jobber that may or may not be able to read a formula and pour toners accurately. Whenever I have done something like this, I get slightly more of each toner than I think will be necessary, each in its own can, then add each of them myself, a little at a time. This requires a scale, though...
 
texasking said:
I didn't catch that, but you're right. Makes me really start to wonder if your jobber knows what he is doing. They gave you the toners in a pint can and told you it was a pint formula?
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yes they did.. In their defense all the years I have gone there , they have never got a color wrong. Maybe a first time. All this downsizing and just tints thing threw the poor girl off... They really just going off of what i wanted. Could it be that the white toner is just really heavy? I noticed that when I weighed the original toners for the gallon at 9oz they were much lighter in grams than the spi base.
 
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Ok so I did a little math (whoohoo), With my scale the the spi white weighs in at 38.777778 grams per Oz. That times 15 oz is 581.66667.g so just shy of 593. At 15.5 oz makes out to be about 601. g The formula could be right if the white is pretty heavy.. I wonder if someone else could confirm that pint formula? Maybe ask your jobber if that formula looks correct to get a second opinion.. That would take out some doubts.
 
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White pigmentation is definitely dense. I can't confirm your math, though, other than to say it doesn't seem out of the realm of possibility. Water is about 29.5g per oz. Solvents tend to be a bit less dense than that. I've never weighed anything with the specific intent of converting from fluid ounces to grams.
 
Ok fellas this is where I'm at....So I did red formula for the pint . I added a quarter of the premixed toner at a time to work with it and keep track of it. went to a dope store, cause in Anchorage you can't seem to throw a rock without hitting one.. , to buy a scale that went down to 1/10 grams for measuring. Worked my way up to full strength formula... Also I did use 593.7 grams of the extra SPI white that I had left to mix it.. That turned out to be about 16oz of base. So a pint.. Color is brighter, almost a redish, brown hue. Like the old Cameo white which I really am not into.. I like the blue/gray/black hue of the Olympic white which is why I painted my Trans Am that color and not the stock white. That car is beautiful...

So I took some pics of the work, FINALLY!! had a sunny day today. Been overcast and raining for weeks.. First pic the left stick is the original DBC Olympic white that I have been trying to achieve or close to.. Second stick is the original greenish formula that we discussed out of the SPI base... The upper corner of the first stick is the SPI with the red formula.. Second pic just a close up.. Third pic is the DBC stick in the first pic up next to the mirror of my truck in the original Olympic.. Fourth pic is my T/A just for fun. The DBC on the stick is what's left of what I painted it 10 years ago.. So the red is a little bright , I am not sure about it. I was hoping for an easy formula that I could replicate to use for the future and not customize it so much.. Been to the jobber this week a few times getting some tints and they are starting to get a little pissy about it for some reason.. So I tried to play with the original greener formula in some SPI white base .. Started small to work my way up, Seems no matter how I go , that formula just goes green. It doesn't give that blue/gray hue.. So I get red or green with the PPG formula..

KInda up in the air about it.. Live with the red formula so it's consistent or just get some other base... Don't really have the skills or the means for a lot of color matching.. DBC is ONLY $645 for a gallon..:eek: and I need 2.. OMNI plus is $340.. Not regular but the plus. Don't really want to use an inferior product , but am kind of stuck.. I almost thought of shooting the spi base for the first coat and then the plus or the DBC for the final coat to achieve the color I want, however I feel that would be suicide as I'm sure different bases would not be happy together.. So I don't know. For me(others may have a different experience), seems like the PPG formula for DBC in this color doesn't jive with the SPI unless you can play around with it..
 

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There would be no issue spraying DBC over SPI. Add 1 oz. of hardener per 32oz. of reduced base to both. There are sure to be more than 2 formulas for that code. Have you tried mixing the 2 formulas together? 2 parts of the lighter/redder to 1 part of the "green" may get you closer to what you want.
 
texasking said:
There would be no issue spraying DBC over SPI. Add 1 oz. of hardener per 32oz. of reduced base to both. There are sure to be more than 2 formulas for that code. Have you tried mixing the 2 formulas together? 2 parts of the lighter/redder to 1 part of the "green" may get you closer to what you want.
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Actually since you mentioned it, I did just do a Halemary mix the green with the red , but at a 50/50 and it just dominated with the green.. LOL However that was just a couple of finger dots on an index card swirled around .. Only issue is if I put them together I am not sure how to keep an accurate account of them to reproduce it. More than likely I will need more base. Painting the whole truck single cab step side fenders, both sides, hood both sides, door jambs, both bumpers, grill, and my lund fiberglass running boards, windshield visor, and racer back. Also like the first foot of the inside of the bed.. So lots of stuff. How about the OMNI plus? I had planed on activating the base coat. I think I read in another forum where someone activated the OMNI plus with spi activator and it worked out.
 

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That first base gallon I mixed with the green I did play with some matching and got ok results, but probably never be able to replicate it. So it will work for the first coat. Second coat needs to count though.. There are quite a few formulas from what I saw, but I'm just dealing with glorified cashiers. None of them know about bodywork or painting.. The fact that i'm using another base causes issues with them..
 
Scott M said:
How about the OMNI plus
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You would be better off biting the bullet and using DBC for that last coat if you have to. Omni+ in the solid colors is just plain old Omni. Omni+ uses the samje solid toners as Omni. Only thing different about Omni+ is the metallic toners (which are still inferior) . PPG Rep told me this years ago. It will work OK, but it is low grade and will not last as long. I've seen this first hand shooting a lot of it at a Shop I worked at. It starts to fade (base itself, under the clear) after a few years.
 
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