Time to strip a 66 Mustang with a DA ?

heat and a blade will do it faster. bondo can be removed easy with a propane torch and a welders brush . just making a pass over bondo draws out the solvent and it turns to powder. dont hold the flame on it just pass over it a few times.
 
I use the 24 grits for everything. I dont by mulitiple grits because if I did, as soon as I ran out of one of them., I would simply use the others until they were gone too instead of stopping and driving to my jobber..

You absoltely dont have to do as I said, I simply offered up the suggestion.. It was presented to me years ago by a professional as a quick efficient way to strip panels.. I do them all that way now..

As soon as the paint and prime are pretty much gone, move on.. Then finish off the panels with 80 grit on a DA.. It will clean the panels the rest of the way up and get the metal prepped for epoxy
 
40 grit on a DA set on spin mode also removes material fast, then finish up with 80 set on orbital. You can get some grinder marks with the 40 though if you're not careful, I stripped quite a few this way years ago. I did some peelers for Ford in the 90's using Shines heat gun and razor blade technique. Chemical stripper and some masking plastic can also save a lot of elbow grease but it's messy and toxic.
 
I tried Aarons way couple days ago. 36 grit on a mud hog and then finished with 80 in standard DA. Worked great also!!
 
If you really want to strip something fast, get the right tool for the job.
National Detroit makes a air sander just for stripping, they're called "grinders"
They're much more aggressive than a DA because they spin only, not dual action.
Dual action is for finish work. Even a normal buffer that's not dual action will strip
quickly with a 7" 80 grit disc., because it's spinning only. It's just not got the
RPM's the air sander has.
The grinder can strip an entire hood with one 60 grit sanding disk faster than
anything I've ever tried, and it leaves it a lot smoother surface than using those
coarse grits. Regular 5" sanding discs go a long way with these.
 
Anyone tried the 3M bristle cups? I ordered a few to try. I think I got the 50 grit ones, green I believe. I got them in 3" size.
 
Shine, power up a camera next time you strip a car with heat and show us!

I like the heat way, but I need practice with it!
 
orangejuiced86;16501 said:
Shine, power up a camera next time you strip a car with heat and show us!

I like the heat way, but I need practice with it!

Camera? with Shine you will get a bunch of stone tablets to leaf through!
 
I've seen the clean-n-strip discs in 6" and 8" diameter and I bet they'd work well, but with older lacquer jobs they might just melt and smear like finer grits. A razor scraper with heat gun like shine recomends, 40 grit on a DA or mudhog, roloc discs, grinding discs on a grinder or buffer, they all work. I still use chemical stripper with plastic sheeting on some of the jobs where there's a lot of old lacquer and enamel piled on-trying to grind or sand all of it off is a lot of work. With a proper application of stripper I can get 90% of it off in one application. The trick is to apply a thick layer and cover it with masking plastic so it stays wet and works down to the bottom layer, let it set and hour or more, test by peeling back an edge of the plastic and give it a scrape to see how loose it is. Fold back some of the plastic and scrape that area off, fold the plastic a little farther and scrape that area clean, untill you get the entire panel done. Then scub it good with water to neutralize the stripper residue and sand off whatever remains. Sometimes it works well enough that most of the paint comes off when removing the plastic. Newer automotive paints strip off easy, easy to sand compared to old lacquers and enamels which will clog your abrasives.
 
Thanks for the link BK. I need something like that. Back in the day I had used coat hangers to weld, a big grinder with 40 or 80 grit,straight line 120 & 180, DA with 220 &320,Binks or sharp siphon gun.Times change. Actually have kept most of my old tools, not that most still work. Anyway I have been looking for something to get all of the tight spots.
Hey Bob, I like that approach, when you get that much buildup it really pays to strip it off. I like the plastic film to keep it wet and secured, I am going to use that one.
 
Bondoking;16362 said:
I use the 24 grits for everything. I dont by mulitiple grits because if I did, as soon as I ran out of one of them., I would simply use the others until they were gone too instead of stopping and driving to my jobber..

You absoltely dont have to do as I said, I simply offered up the suggestion.. It was presented to me years ago by a professional as a quick efficient way to strip panels.. I do them all that way now..

As soon as the paint and prime are pretty much gone, move on.. Then finish off the panels with 80 grit on a DA.. It will clean the panels the rest of the way up and get the metal prepped for epoxy

I'm with Bondoking on this one. I have the 3" and 1" roloc discs and the eat some paint. Here are some shots of my wheel wells that I stripped with the discs.
View attachment 1227
View attachment 1225
View attachment 1226 roloc1.jpg

roloc3.jpg

roloc2.jpg
 
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