time window to get base down after sealer

C

Craig L

Sorry if this is duplicated post but i couldn't find it anywhere.

I sprayed reduced epoxy as a sealer on Saturday afternoon. "friend" from body shop was supposed to be bringing over two-part seam sealer that night but forgot it at work. Today, he forgot it on his work bench. So, I now won't be able to get on until tomorrow night. I'm out of town Wednesday night so I won't be able to shoot base until Thursday. I'm planning on wet sanding the epoxy sealer with 600 tonight and tomorrow anyhow and I just wanted to confirm that I will be ok basing on Thursday since this whole process started last Saturday?
 
No, i wouldnt. Your adhesion will be compromised. If i was you i would just lightly go around and denib the sealer and lightly scuff it with 600 or a scotchbrite. I would then shoot one reduced coat of epoxy, wait 15 min and put your base on. i would not put base over epoxy that has set for more than 24 hours.
 
Jim C;11356 said:
No, i wouldnt. Your adhesion will be compromised. If i was you i would just lightly go around and denib the sealer and lightly scuff it with 600 or a scotchbrite. I would then shoot one reduced coat of epoxy, wait 15 min and put your base on. i would not put base over epoxy that has set for more than 24 hours.
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I SOOOOOOOO agree
 
Sorry for the hijack, but If it's just overnite and I just want to get the dust out, can I skip resealing and spray base?
 
Overnight is just fine-JMO, another option you could spray the sealer coat of epoxy and let it flash then shoot one coat of base or intercoat then denib that the next day and then shoot the rest of the base. The biggest concern is you want to be able to control dirt and any texture problems while still maintaining the adhesion advantages of using the epoxy sealer.
JimC sees better chip resistance shooting the base 15min after the sealer coat of epoxy goes on but if you're shooting the base within 24hrs I really think the advantages are so minimal it's like we're splitting hairs-JMO though, a gravelometer test would show any differences.
 
I'd like to hear from Barry on this one,
I thought I asked him once about base over sanded epoxy
vs fresh epoxy, I'm pretty sure he said it would be about the same.
Most bumpers I do, I epoxy them and sand them the next day
for a smooth surface, then base over that.
I did my car that way and haven't had a chip in 3 yrs.
It has really made a difference in road rash.
So I wonder if it is worth more epoxy once it's sanded:confused:
 
There is nothing wrong with next day. I do it that way as well on occasion. I just dont let it goto day 2 and beyond. I tell people 15 min because that just the way i do it and found it to be easy to make your sealer coat like its your first coat of base. On a warm day mixed 1:1:1 i can lightly sand the epoxy in 15 min to denib if i have to. Basically i am just spraying it like an adhesion promoter.

Jim, your fine with your procedure. Once epoxy starts curing though, day 2 and beyond it really doesnt matter if its sanded or not. The adhesion gets weaker and weaker.5-7 day old or older sanded epoxy you can bet you will have poor adhesion. In some cases i have been able to peel th base right off with some tape. Its like your shooting base on bare sanded metal.
 
This is tough to answer.
Personally, I spray the epoxy unreduced and next day or two wetsand and base, I now have the benefit of sand scratches and open coat for great adhesion.

Adhesion, some bases have better adhesion then others, this is where the problems come in, example, you all know I'm not a fan off S+W or Dupont base BUT, they have probably the best adhesion.
I don't want to get into rating base coats this way, so I will agree with everyone and say this:
Unreduced epoxy, sand within 7 days and go.
Reduced epoxy try to stay in the 24-48 hour range.

I have two fenders, I epoxied three months ago, about three weeks ago I applied, clear, epoxy and SPI base over the epoxy without sanding or cleaning.
I'm at 100% adhesion with clear, and the epoxy and 95% with the base BUT the SPI base has better adhesion then most so not a real fair comparison.
Another base one of the worse (no name) has 45% adhesion.

Activated would have even been better.
 
This is what I like about this forum, the details, each one's perspectives, the thought process, and the fact that most here strive to attain the best results possible.
Other forums it just doesn't get this analytical, there's often no mention of sealer and it's benefits at all, no trying to achieve better results, no new ideas. Glad to be a part of this.
 
Barryk;11470 said:
This is tough to answer.
Personally, I spray the epoxy unreduced and next day or two wetsand and base, I now have the benefit of sand scratches and open coat for great adhesion.

Adhesion, some bases have better adhesion then others, this is where the problems come in, example, you all know I'm not a fan off S+W or Dupont base BUT, they have probably the best adhesion.
I don't want to get into rating base coats this way, so I will agree with everyone and say this:
Unreduced epoxy, sand within 7 days and go.
Reduced epoxy try to stay in the 24-48 hour range.

I have two fenders, I epoxied three months ago, about three weeks ago I applied, clear, epoxy and SPI base over the epoxy without sanding or cleaning.
I'm at 100% adhesion with clear, and the epoxy and 95% with the base BUT the SPI base has better adhesion then most so not a real fair comparison.
Another base one of the worse (no name) has 45% adhesion.

Activated would have even been better.
Click to expand...
Barry, can you elaborate a little on what is meant here? What didn't get activated?
 
Bob Hollinshead;11498 said:
This is what I like about this forum, the details, each one's perspectives, the thought process, and the fact that most here strive to attain the best results possible.
Other forums it just doesn't get this analytical, there's often no mention of sealer and it's benefits at all, no trying to achieve better results, no new ideas. Glad to be a part of this.
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good point bob. other places dont like other opinions. If your way goes against the "main posters" of the other forums you are casted out. Their way is the right way and the ONLY way to them. Which is why most of them dont do this for a living.

I honestly never really used sealer before paint on these restorations before i found spi and this forum. Now, i dont see a reason NOT to use sealer. Whether its 2k or epoxy.
 
Bob Hollinshead;11498 said:
This is what I like about this forum, the details, each one's perspectives, the thought process, and the fact that most here strive to attain the best results possible.
Other forums it just doesn't get this analytical, there's often no mention of sealer and it's benefits at all, no trying to achieve better results, no new ideas. Glad to be a part of this.
Click to expand...

You are right and BEST part is not one post is wrong here on the times, as so many variables, like temp/hum and type of paint, SS or Base and then right down to brand of base or was it activated.
Again like I tell people on the phone everyday, all paints are made to work at 70-75 degrees and 35-45% humidity, anything different, your on your own and it is what works for you.

Had a call from a guy this week, smart guy and for two months been spending all his spare time reading forums so he can start prepping his first paint job this winter.
He said it did not take him long to figure out all the forums had a lot of people posting bad info (this is from a non painter) and then he found this forum and said no need to go anywhere else.

He then asked me is the info on here all as good as it looks or am I missing something?
I told him, I can"t spend as much time as I would like on here and some threads I never even see but we have so many top notch people around the country on here that no bad information will will not be corrected within hours, so my answer to him was all the information is good, if there has been a few answers to the post.

Also he said he has read everyone of Strums posts as he is in the same boat and he is now more excited then ever to get going.

It is the people, that make a forum of high quality or just run of the mill, where info is suspect.
 
Barryk;11470 said:
This is tough to answer.
Personally, I spray the epoxy unreduced and next day or two wetsand and base, I now have the benefit of sand scratches and open coat for great adhesion.

Adhesion, some bases have better adhesion then others, this is where the problems come in, example, you all know I'm not a fan off S+W or Dupont base BUT, they have probably the best adhesion.
I don't want to get into rating base coats this way, so I will agree with everyone and say this:
Unreduced epoxy, sand within 7 days and go.
Reduced epoxy try to stay in the 24-48 hour range.

I have two fenders, I epoxied three months ago, about three weeks ago I applied, clear, epoxy and SPI base over the epoxy without sanding or cleaning.
I'm at 100% adhesion with clear, and the epoxy and 95% with the base BUT the SPI base has better adhesion then most so not a real fair comparison.
Another base one of the worse (no name) has 45% adhesion.

Activated would have even been better.
Click to expand...

I hope you are testing the new improved SPI Black base !
 
Senile Old Fart;11529 said:
I hope you are testing the new improved SPI Black base !
Click to expand...

It was the old, don't need improving SPI RED that I can make with my eyes closed!
 
Barryk;11513 said:
...clip...

Had a call from a guy this week, smart guy and for two months been spending all his spare time reading forums so he can start prepping his first paint job this winter.
He said it did not take him long to figure out all the forums had a lot of people posting bad info (this is from a non painter) and then he found this forum and said no need to go anywhere else.

He then asked me is the info on here all as good as it looks or am I missing something?
I told him, I can"t spend as much time as I would like on here and some threads I never even see but we have so many top notch people around the country on here that no bad information will will not be corrected within hours, so my answer to him was all the information is good, if there has been a few answers to the post.

Also he said he has read everyone of Strums posts as he is in the same boat and he is now more excited then ever to get going.

It is the people, that make a forum of high quality or just run of the mill, where info is suspect.
Click to expand...

The quality of members can really send a forum one direction or the other.
My concern would be as this site grows, if a large number of bad quality members grow - spouting their misinformed 'know how' how do you keep the good knowledge from being drowned out by the stupid?
 
Some of that has begun to crop up, but we are very determined to keep standards high.

Not all of us agree on the exact details of what is the right way to do things, but we all can spot wrong ways from a mile away, and it gets nipped in the bud one way or another.
 
my take on recoat window for base on spi epoxy was if i could still smell fresh epoxy after sanding i was good to go, then i read jim c's opinion who i just about worship. i tape tested spi black on 5 day old sanded spi epoxy that was cured then stored in cool temps with no light.. it was good, but i am no longer going to wait like that and keep recoat window within the day, if longer spray reduced coat. jim also said i bought more time because spi paint has better adhesion qualities than many other paints out there today... less polyester was it?
 
LostMy65.. Barry and Crash are correct.. Misinformation happens, however the crew here works diligently to correct and remove this information if need be... Soo many top professionals on here my man, you simply cant go wrong.. You have found a great home LM65.. Welcome
 
I have a bumper sealed with epoxy primer reduced 1:1:1

I can't BC / CC until 1 week after spraying this sealer coat. I was planning on wet sanding with 600 prior to BC but judging by the opinions in the the thread, I should respray my sealer prior to BC?

I'm spraying Dupont Chromabase / SPI Universal
 
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