Timing and Coat Recommendations

T

Tiggie

This is my first time using modern paint materials. Have baby #2 and job obligations that are going to require me to take a ~9 month break from the ground up resto of my 68 Mustang.
I have the bottom, trunk, and interior floor and interior roof ready for paint.
I purchased SPI epoxy to put down first on these areas. The bottom and interior roof will stay red oxide epoxy with the exception of overspray. The trunk area needs to look nice (same as outside the car) and the interior floor will get body color as well (although it doesn't need to look as nice). The outside of the car is not ready for epoxy - will be mechanically stripped at a later time.
1.) When should I apply my seam sealers over the epoxy? I want epoxy over and under the seam sealers.
2.) The trunk has lots of hard to get to places that are nearly impossible to sand well. For that reason I am thinking I need to coat it with something within the seven day epoxy window. Should I go ahead and do a urethane primer on top of the epoxy? Or maybe even prime and topcoat?
3.) How well does spray sound deadner stick to epoxy within the seven day window? I am using https://www.amazon.com/3M-08864-Schutz-Rubberized-Coating/dp/B000PEQGM
I think it's an asphalt base. Or should I wait until outside the seven days, sand, and then spray my sound deadener?

I am not a paint expert so forgive me if some of these are dumb questions! Thanks for reading.
 
Let epoxy set 24 hours and then apply seam sealer, if one part seam sealer let set a few days and apply epoxy over it without sanding.

In trunk, use 2k primer only if you are blocking out something, just scuff hard to get ares with red scuff pad and shoot epoxy.

Undercoating will stick to epoxy just find but its a piss-poor sound damper, look at lizard skin if that is what you are after.
 
Thanks Barry.

It is a one part seam sealer.

The sound deadener came as a recommendation due to texture over function. It's a "semi" concours car (as best as I can get it) and its got to look just right. I will certainly consider lizard skin if I can get it to lay down (or in this case stand up) right. I have to buy some that it paintable anyway for some areas (the 3M I have is not). So should scuff the epoxy before the sound deadener, right?

So if I go ahead and spray the epoxy in the trunk, I shouldn't have any adhesion problems down the road as long as I scuff before spraying? I won't be able to get into every nook and cranny, but I should be able to do okay with a scuff pad. The scuff pad will provide enough bite?
 
If you are recreating texture there are products made for that far better then undercoating.
On the old SL Mercedes, I used a gravel guard type product, came in aerosol and quarts, don't remember name, jobber should have something like it.

Yes on scuff pad of epoxy in trunk.
 
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