Trouble at the Tapeline

'68 Coronet R/T

'68 Coronet R/T

Oldtimer
First time painting a two tone so I thought I would practice with the left over paint samples. The fenders and body all have trim that covers the tape line. The doors and small sections of the cab do not.

I need to get this down as I want to put custom side stripes on my GTX when the time comes.

I thought I had this taped off very well but obviously I didn't.

Using 3M Yellow tape so I'm wondering if I need something else?

Paint Bleeding.JPG


Paint Bleeding 1.JPG


So help me understand the steps I should have taken and the materials I should have used.
Thanks.
 
You can tape decent lines with conventional tape but 3M yellow is really thin and that makes it harder get consistent lines without the issues that you are experiencing. The heavier tapes like the 3M green work OK but are not really ideal. Spend a little more and get fine line tape. 3M makes a selection of them. If you are trying to get a straight line don't use the 3M blue vinyl tape. It stretches and distorts pretty easily making it hard to tape a straight line.

Something like this would work well.

When you lay it down always rub it with your finger several times to ensure complete contact. Lay your fineline first, then your regular tape, and finally tape and paper. Always go over it all several times with your finger pushing down to ensure full contact.
 
That blue fine line tape is to thick, not bad if its staight lines but it dont like corners. ive been ok using it for staight lines and dont pull on it or it does distort, gets thin where pulls/tension are
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
Should I be looking at 1/2" wide tape or is narrower better? I have fat fingers. LOL
@texasking The link lead me to a log in to your account page. Is that MMM for 3M part #36354?
Click to expand...
Yes, that is it. It is almost 3/4", but it goes around corners very well. They make smaller sizes you would need for very tight corners. It stays put, doesn't leave any residue, and doesn't "tape track" near as bad on fresh base as regular masking tape. The reason I bought the wider tape initially was it was cheaper than the 1/8",1/4", and 1/2" for some reason.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
Should I be looking at 1/2" wide tape or is narrower better? I have fat fingers. LOL
@texasking The link lead me to a log in to your account page. Is that MMM for 3M part #36354?
Click to expand...
Fineline is usualy i think 1/8th? Or about there. Mask with reg tape then cut your line with the fineline
 
Another thing that might be worthwhile, but I kind of remember either reading or maybe it being suggested to me at some point. But consider using a coat of intercoat clear as your first coat after tape to help with this as well. Maybe a little extra insurance in addition to the better tape.
 
Well, in a case where there will be no molding or a stripe (not applicable in most OEM applications) a couple coats of intercoat along the line after both colors will allow some sanding prior to clear. This helps the line get buried quicker with clearcoat.
 
crashtech said:
Well, in a case where there will be no molding or a stripe (not applicable in most OEM applications) a couple coats of intercoat along the line after both colors will allow some sanding prior to clear. This helps the line get buried quicker with clearcoat.
Click to expand...
So shoot both colors and then apply the intercoat clear over the lines?
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
So shoot both colors and then apply the intercoat clear over the lines?
Click to expand...
Here is my take, for what it's worth. If you untape and it looks good, go straight to clear. Start your clearing by putting 1 coat over the 2 tone edge. Let it flash a few minutes, then clear as normal. Second coat, same thing. This will ensure you have you have at least 2 more coats over the edge, and give you plenty there to make it flat. Seeing your work, it doesn't look like you are stingy with the clear. Three coats is iffy to sand an edge flat, 4 coats is normally safe. Just depends when you want to sand it, before or after clear.
 
Last edited:
'68 Coronet R/T said:
So shoot both colors and then apply the intercoat clear over the lines?
Click to expand...
@texasking has some good advice. I want to offer a slightly different take. Once in a while, if you are shooting the clear pretty wet, an obstruction like a tape line can cause the clear to build enough enough to spill over in a waterfall style run. I think whether or not this will happen depends on how heavy the line is,whether the top or bottom color is painted first, and spray style. The intercoat (or transparent base that matches the base system) just gives a little insurance against mishaps.
 
I worked with an artist once that pinstriped, lettered, laid out flames, etc. as good as anyone. He also was not a good painter. I sprayed all his paint and clear for him. One of the tricks he used to eliminate a raised edge between colors was to drag a razor blade across it just enough to knock the edge off, kind of like shaving a run. He used to do this on all the flame jobs, and I never remember having to redo anything because of it. He was good with a razor blade! As crash said, that edge can cause the clear to want to run, especially the first coat if sprayed real wet. Letting it flash good helps. If you use the intercoat, don't try to sand the edge completely flat or you risk cutting into the color. Just sand enough to get rid of the sharp edge. Tape the edge only once. Spray the first color past where you will 2 tone, then tape and spray the other color. This will help keep the edge cleaner.
 
This is exactly the info I needed. Again thanks a bunch.

My plan will be to sand the blue to remove some dust and the rough edge. I will then shoot another coat of white on the top edge and the lower door section.

Once that has dried enough, apply the new tape and masking, then shoot the dark blue.

Remove the masking and tape and shoot 2 coats of intercoat clear over the upper line area. Once dried lightly sand with 1500 just to dull the edge then shoot clear coat.

How long do you normally let the paint sit before removing the tape? Last time I removed it almost immediately after spraying thinking it would lay down better.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top