Trying to dial in applying euro clear

Yes.
Here's another vehicle as sprayed with Euro 5000.
Flame Red and Euro Clear Left Rear.JPG
 
orangejuiced86 said:
I've never shot it with no reducer honestly. Maybe I'll try it like that.
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Personally I would be leary of spraying it unreduced. There must be a reason Barry added that it must be reduced on the label and tech sheets. It builds like crazy reduced 4:1:1 in my opinion.
 

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I understand this topic is about Euro but, are you guys who have used UV reducing it, and if so, to what ratio?
 
orangejuiced86 said:
I had a job I did about 2 years ago that I shot with Euro, slow reducer, slow hardner. I saw it last week and it pinched up bad on me. I have to resand and polish the entire car. If I use euro again, I will not exceed 4:1:1. I don't know if it was caused by over reducing, but when the job left it looked fantastic. It wasn't a rush job, it was at my place almost 2 months after it was painted. That was the last job I used slow anything on. The 2 jobs after that one I used medium hardner and medium reducer and the gloss appears to have held out just as it was when it left.

I did deal with quite a bit of micro pop on the last 2 cars I did though. Hard to say what the cause was, again probably over reduction. I don't recall that ever happening with UV clear in the past.

As anyone knows on here, I don't rush anything, lol
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That's funny because I have never had issues with solvent pop either, but I ran into a few issues myself on the last few I did. I was mixing maybe a hair more than 4:1:1.25 in order to get it slick. This was when it was still cool outside too. I actually had one pop like crazy and had to reclear. I almost felt like I was having to spray much lighter coats than normal to avoid pop. But I recently received a new batch of clear and activator and went back to 4:1:1 and the issue has disappeared so far. But I am in Mississippi and it has been around 90 degrees and humid lately. So many variables though so who knows.
 
Barry told me some years back the reducer speed is what it's all about withe the Euro. I use it with medium activator-medium ruducer in the winter, 70 degree temps in the shop. When it warms up I use slow activator and 885 reducer. Either way I use 4:1:1.5 but that's subject to user preference. 68 is the only one I've ever seen here use no reducer and get awesome results, to me that's some gun skill right there ;).
I haven't used Universal in quite a while but I recall initially adding some reducer but with some time getting used to it I was able to get it on very slick with no reducer. Not supposed to need reducer with the Universal.
Any of the clears need gun time to get your own systems worked out. What works for one painter may not suit another.
 
metalman said:
Barry told me some years back the reducer speed is what it's all about withe the Euro. I use it with medium activator-medium ruducer in the winter, 70 degree temps in the shop. When it warms up I use slow activator and 885 reducer. Either way I use 4:1:1.5 but that's subject to user preference. 68 is the only one I've ever seen here use no reducer and get awesome results, to me that's some gun skill right there ;).
I haven't used Universal in quite a while but I recall initially adding some reducer but with some time getting used to it I was able to get it on very slick with no reducer. Not supposed to need reducer with the Universal.
Any of the clears need gun time to get your own systems worked out. What works for one painter may not suit another.
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Great reply !
My English Wheel was sprayed with Euro, 2:1 no reducer with 1 ounce of activator per sprayable quart. I sprayed three coats. Temp where mid 70 to upper 70's with 78 % humidity. I let each coat flash for 30 minutes. Call it luck I guess but, I didn't get any runs or sags.

The Barracuda will be sprayed with UV clear so, now I know it can be sprayed without using reducer.

Thanks for your help.
 
MJM said:
Great reply !
My English Wheel was sprayed with Euro, 2:1 no reducer with 1 ounce of activator per sprayable quart. I sprayed three coats. Temp where mid 70 to upper 70's with 78 % humidity. I let each coat flash for 30 minutes. Call it luck I guess but, I didn't get any runs or sags.

The Barracuda will be sprayed with UV clear so, now I know it can be sprayed without using reducer.

Thanks for your help.
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You mixed your clear 32:1?
 
What Spi clear mixes 2:1? Did you spray euro 2.1? That clear should be mixed 4:1 with no reducer, I don't know the exact effects of over activating, probably nothing, but it was on a practice project and not an actual car. So no worries really. Just don't want wrong information being passed around.
 
I did not. I get extremely motivated in the afternoon and that shit fades fast towards the evening.

Plus I was fiberglassing longer than I thought I would. This weekend for sure....well maybe.
 
orangejuiced86 said:
What Spi clear mixes 2:1? Did you spray euro 2.1? That clear should be mixed 4:1 with no reducer, I don't know the exact effects of over activating, probably nothing, but it was on a practice project and not an actual car. So no worries really. Just don't want wrong information being passed around.
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My local jobber gave me the ready to spray Limco metallic paint and a quart of Euro clear 2:1 with a pint of activator for free. He took a liking to my English Wheel project and wanted to help out. Said I have bought plenty of consumables from him over the past two years. I know the clear was no big deal to him since it was a sample pack one of his paint distributors gave him to try.

Obviously I'm still trying to learn the paint lingo, so please bare with me. I know it's tough for you seasoned guys to make heads or tails of what I say, or try to say.
 
The Euro 2.1 is still a 4:1 mix. The 2.1 means it's California legal. The regular can't be sold in CA.
 
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