Universal over bare steel

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dukess396

I'm thinking about clearing my tie rods, intermediate shaft, and other pieces that are supposed to be bare steel, vs rattle canning them with Eastwoods or Last Details "bare steel" spray paint. I don't think bare steel colored paint ever looks right anyways. Has anyone tried this? If so how would you prep for it?
 
First achieve whatever look you want for the steel part. Obviously sanding is probably out. Blasted steel may be what you decide on. Up to you really. Clean everything well, just like you would if you were getting ready to paint. Then activated adhesion promoter (SPI) first, then clear coat. I would use the flattened clear (SPI 2200) not Universal as UV would be real shiny. If that's the look you want ok, but if you want it to look close to original use a flattened clear coat. I can't promise you how long it will adhere but if you aren't driving it much it should last quite a while. Just don't expect it to last a very long time or hold up perfectly if you use the vehicle a lot.
The key is to use adhesion promoter (SPI 600) and activate it. Refer to the Tech Manual for activation info.
 
EddieF said:
I have to ask- how does ad pro help?
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I can't give the why, I just know it does. First saw where Jim C talked about it and using it on bare metal before clear, gave it a try and it does work well. (not that I doubted Jim:)) Have done it several times now over bare alumium and steel. Perhaps Jim or Barry could comment on why activated ad-pro helps with the bond over bare metal.
 
On my restored 67 Camaro I used this on all bare parts and it is working excellent.

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Another method I have seen done by Model A folks they say works is to wipe grease on the parts, then with a another rag, wipe off.

Mike
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
I can't give the why, I just know it does. First saw where Jim C talked about it and using it on bare metal before clear, gave it a try and it does work well. (not that I doubted Jim:)) Have done it several times now over bare alumium and steel. Perhaps Jim or Barry could comment on why activated ad-pro helps with the bond over bare metal.
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Chris, was any of this over polished aluminum or steel? Also, I questioned the tech guy this week about using adpro over a vintage original paint and then UV clear to preserve the nice vintage original finish. Of course adpro is made for plastics and they stuck to that scenario. I've shot UV on cleaned chrome bike rims with good results and over the years I've shot clear polyurethane on damn near anything with good results. But what would you think abt adpro on a vintage lacquer finish and then uv clear delicately applied? Crapshoot I know, but I'd like to get your opinion.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
First achieve whatever look you want for the steel part. Obviously sanding is probably out. Blasted steel may be what you decide on. Up to you really. Clean everything well, just like you would if you were getting ready to paint. Then activated adhesion promoter (SPI) first, then clear coat. I would use the flattened clear (SPI 2200) not Universal as UV would be real shiny. If that's the look you want ok, but if you want it to look close to original use a flattened clear coat. I can't promise you how long it will adhere but if you aren't driving it much it should last quite a while. Just don't expect it to last a very long time or hold up perfectly if you use the vehicle a lot.
The key is to use adhesion promoter (SPI 600) and activate it. Refer to the Tech Manual for activation info.
Click to expand...

Chris, would this same method hold true for bare aluminum?
 
@Slofut ...sorry for not replying earlier, somehow missed your question.

@MP&C Robert I'll lump these in together. What I learned about this was from Jim C and his posts here. Have done several things in steel and aluminum with seemingly good results. Jim C has done a lot more than I have so he could probably comment better as to the longevity of the process. I think Robert,that the majority of what he had done with ad-pro over bare metal has been with polished aluminum. What I have done has held up afaik. Only really have seen one job I did in the recent months, but it was over a year old and still looked good. That was polished aluminum.

SLofut, I'd be wary of anything over lacquer. Just because of the nature of lacquer (no solvent resistance) it could be a big mess. It would also change the look of the vintage finish you are trying to perserve. Rather drastically IMO. Maybe Barry could point you in the right direction on it. Wish I could give you a better more concrete answer but that's all I can tell you. Lacquer has no solvent resistance and spraying a polyurethane clear over it could or will cause the lacquer to move around alot and possibly more. Plus liek I said it would change the look of the finish rather drastically.
 
i have used the adpro many times on bare metal. usually on chrome or polished aluminum. on either of those with no adpro you can peel clearcoat right off. if you shoot with adpro first the adhesion is light years better. not as good as a regular sanded metal with epoxy primer but def pretty good.
 
Awesome Jim, thanks. For many years I used Imron clear on chrome and polished metal with excellent results, of course it's not the same anymore but I have used mcu clear on the same with good results and in the last year with UV also. But I would like to try adpro this way even though technically it shouldn't work.
 
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