Vette glass question

I've got a 69 Vette about 80% stripped using a heat gun and razor blade. That went well once I bought a blade holder with a handle long enough to keep hands further away from the heat. Planning to use SPI epoxy for all priming and blocking. I've got some areas where the glass strands appear to be right at the surface. Primarily a few places on the hood surround panel and on the concave curved area near the top of both doors.

I've owned the car since it was about 6 months old, and these areas are the ones where the original paint began to crack first, and worst. I repainted it with lacquer in the early 80's. Took all the paint off at that time with a DA. Used Feather fill for blocking then lacquer primer and paint. But didn't do anything to those funky areas at that time, assuming as a typical amateur that the Feather fill and primer would take care of it. After a few years, it began to crack in these same places first, and as with the original finish, the cracks were the worst in these areas.

I know I need to grind these areas out and fill with something prior to starting with any primer, but I need some of your expert opinions on what to use to fill these areas once they're prepped.

Thanks in advance
Cliff
 
Any v grooving use fiberglass vette panel adheivsive.

As far as the hairs, ive never seen a 60s or 70s that did not have a few sticking up after stripping.
I just ignore them shoot first coat of epoxy on the car then go around and with finger and lay each one down in epoxy.
Then I continue to spray my next coats.
 
There IS one issue with the exposed hairs that could cause a problem, and that is that of solvent entrapment.

In the 60's, a common "come back" of a paint job would be the fibers showing up later because of the lacquer paints used back then.
Solvents trapped in the loose fiber areas would be lacquered over, and the top coats would dry, leaving the solvents underneath to eat their way up over time.

The only fix then was to spray gel coat and use that as the base going forward.
Today, the epoxies we use (that cure rather than dry) serve the same function as gel coat because they cure out and become a solid base.

The point is not to just point out a little history of the issue, but to point out that we really do want to be serious about burying any loose fiber.
Another option, for smaller areas, is to spread a thin coat of body filler over the area, making sure not to sand through to the fiber again.
Anything that will provide a cured, impervious barrier to paint solvents is what we're looking for.
 
Luxcar.
You are 1000% correct.
Like I tell folks at least once a week, yes you can put urethane primer or polyester primer over raw glass of an old vette but the epoxy will prevent problems down the road as the epoxy (talking spi only) when cured is stronger and more flexible than a gel coat.
It's the only way in my book.
 
Just wanted to say thanks to Barry, Shine, and Luxcar for their answers to my question. Exactly what I needed to know. Haven't checked in here in a while as my vette project got delayed when I broadsided a guy who decided to do a U turn in the middle of the road in front of my daily driver pickup.

Have replaced most of the sheetmetal from the firewall forward, and figured this is as good a time as any to cut out and replace the rockers, cab corners, and rear wheel arches with the typical early 90's Chevy rust, so I've been in spot, stitch, and grind mode for a while. Looking forward to parking the mig back in its corner and getting back on the plastic car. Thanks again guys.
 
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