Well..... That didn't work!!

Scott M

Promoted Users
Ok Shot the first coat of SPI white over my sealer. Shot the sealer early evening then the base this morning. It's been a while so I forgot how much my old Devillbiss Plus moves material. Roof turned out ok. The back panel of the truck was lots of runs . My fault , I was piling it on. Also have a couple of spots that looked like it reacted with something, which is strange since the epoxy sealer showed no signs of that.. Anyway , got some sanding to do and now I remember how that gun works. Just cost me a panel.. The only issue I really have is trying to get material in the groove areas around the windows and the seam trim line. Have pics.. Just shooting with the gun seems to really pile it on there. trying to get into the grooves... Only thing I can think of is to turn the pressure way down and the fan. What do you think.?? Most of the runs were on the bottom. That area is tuff to get into with the frame and all.. I'm going to let it sit most the day and then sand the mistakes.
 

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Don't turn the pressure down. If anything, turn it up 5-10 lbs. Don't try to make the base cover quicker than it wants to. White is a poor hider, and will take several coats to cover a different color.
 
Tex is correct and check the fluid adjustment, turn in till it stops and turns out 2.75 turns, fan 90% wide open, so you dont blow out the center
 
Tex is correct and check the fluid adjustment, turn in till it stops and turns out 2.75 turns, fan 90% wide open, so you dont blow out the center
Actually those were the settings I used. I'm not talking about spraying per say. I know where I goofed as far as coverage. . The base went on smooth, I was having trouble getting into all of those grooves and not pile it on in those areas.. I was only referring to using the low pressure just for those parts and then kicking it back up again.. Kind of like when you edge a panel first then shoot over it and blend it..:confused: Thanks though..
 
You can adjust your fan pattern to a tight circle to get into those tight spots. Remember to adjust ( reduce) your fluid output when doing so.
 
take my advice with a grain of salt, i am by no means a pro.. i'm spraying some deep dish 10" diameter atv wheels in a metallic silver now. there are two indented rings inside the perimeter of the dish, to get coverage i turned the fan down to about 2.5", dropped the fluid to the point that it takes two to three passes to get a normal single pass coverage, and kept the air pressure around 30psi. made a couple passes around the rings, then opened the fan and fluid back up and shot the rest of the wheel. No dry spray, coverage is even and no striping. I'm not sure if this will work in your scenario or not.
 
take my advice with a grain of salt, i am by no means a pro.. i'm spraying some deep dish 10" diameter atv wheels in a metallic silver now. there are two indented rings inside the perimeter of the dish, to get coverage i turned the fan down to about 2.5", dropped the fluid to the point that it takes two to three passes to get a normal single pass coverage, and kept the air pressure around 30psi. made a couple passes around the rings, then opened the fan and fluid back up and shot the rest of the wheel. No dry spray, coverage is even and no striping. I'm not sure if this will work in your scenario or not.
That's pretty much what I was talking about.. I didn't quite go as thin as you, but smaller fan and less fluid. Took a few coats to get where I want, I just sneaked up on it.. Since I had some repairs to make I went ahead and dusted in those areas on the back panel.. So I can cover it with a "normal" pass now .. I would have drove me crazy to see the gray primer,(Used Cars quote) " better have gray primer", LOL.. In that crack area. So it's much better now.. That trick using the W&G remover with some 600 works pretty good..
 

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