WHAT GUN DO YOU USE FOR CLEAR

JC Daniel

Promoted Users
I am in the market for a new clear gun, I shoot SPI Euro most all the time and do use Universal at times. I have an Iwata LPH 400 that I just can't get along with any longer and was wanting to see what you guys suggest?
 
I have 3 LPH 400 1.4 one sine they first came out — base or clear perfect.
A number of satas RP's from 2000rp to 5000rp great clear guns.
I use them just about daily testing batches at the minimum.

It's a personal style as to what gun works best for that person.
No one right answer.
 
I have 3 LPH 400 1.4 one sine they first came out — base or clear perfect.
A number of satas RP's from 2000rp to 5000rp great clear guns.
I use them just about daily testing batches at the minimum.

It's a personal style as to what gun works best for that person.
No one right answer.
Have you tried the LPH 300? I'm having a hard time getting it set up right.
 
I can not for the life of me get a slick finish with the LPH 400, I have tried different settings and pressures with no progress.
 
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Hmm, these are straight out of the gun with an LPH400 1.4.
Ford Ebony Black with Euro Clear
EuroClearassprayed.jpg

ColorasSprayed.jpg


Mazda Mariner Blue with Euro Clear
Retarder.JPG


Subaru Blue Spruce Pearl with Euro Clear
Hood Clear as Sprayed.JPG


Fluid knob 1/2 turn in from full open, PSI at the gun 22, 4-6" from the surface, 50% overlap.
The blue panel was my first time using retarder in the last coat.
Makes the cut and buff much easier.
Hood Buffed 2.JPG
 
I have an lph400 as well, and I have yet to really get it figured out. You can have the gun optimized, but if the technique is off for how the gun sprays it wont work out like you want. Travel speed, gun distance from the panel, and overlap are the 3 factors that will get you, even if the gun is optimized, and of course dont forget to factor in the weather.

The 70 percent overlap thing gets suggested alot, but just switching up really any of those 3 factors of technique is easier said then done. I dont have alot of experience so not alot of long standing habits, but the muscle memory for doing stuff a certain way is hard to overcome.

With that said I really would like to try a Sata, simply just to try something different.

The other thing I really would like to do is just be a fly on the wall of some of these paint booths, a good fly that stays out of the paint, lol. To observe someone achieve work like what 68 shows would really be priceless. It would really be something to visually see the process of another painter.
 
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I sprayed the clear on my Coronet R/T with a SATA 2000. (Yeah, that long ago.) The major difference for me is that the SATA required a bit more speed of travel and distance from the panel. Probably why they are the favorite of production shops.

The Iwata LPH400 requires a slower steady speed of travel and closer distance to the panel. I find the 50% overlap to work just fine and much easier because I just aim the tip at the edge of the previous pass.

When your speed is right you can watch the clear lay down behind the spray pattern and begin to flow out. I believe Barry says, "spray it like you want it to look."

NOTE: I don't reduce my clear when spraying the first 2-3 coats, however I always use slow activator no matter what the temperature (70-100 degrees).

Depending on the vehicle and the finish I want, two coats un-reduced followed by one coat with Retarder added will usually get the job done. Flash times are critical to avoid runs especially if using reducer or retarder in the last coat.
 
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So you are not reducing the Euro clear at all? I may try that the next spray and see what happens. I really appreciate the guidance and suggestions.
 
My 2 cents worth as I don't think I could make the lph orange peel paint.
If all the adjustments were played with and the air is right, it can only be a distance of gun from the panel.
Gun is made like all compliant guns 5 to 6 inches from the panel.

You are always welcome to call me with a gun in hand and a test panel; the answer is minor, and we can figure out.
Two other non-painters use my gun at the plant and will do pretest batches for me sometimes, and they lay it slick, but they leave my adjustments alone.
150+ at the wall.
Fan 90% wide open
No filters in the gun.
Fluid 2.75 to 3. Turns out.
26 to 28lbs at the gun with the trigger pulled.
Aluminum cup top, the peephole is drilled out 1/8 of an inch dia.
 
My 2 cents worth as I don't think I could make the lph orange peel paint.
If all the adjustments were played with and the air is right, it can only be a distance of gun from the panel.
Gun is made like all compliant guns 5 to 6 inches from the panel.

You are always welcome to call me with a gun in hand and a test panel; the answer is minor, and we can figure out.
Two other non-painters use my gun at the plant and will do pretest batches for me sometimes, and they lay it slick, but they leave my adjustments alone.
150+ at the wall.
Fan 90% wide open
No filters in the gun.
Fluid 2.75 to 3. Turns out.
26 to 28lbs at the gun with the trigger pulled.
Aluminum cup top, the peephole is drilled out 1/8 of an inch dia.
What is your preferred at the gun regulator?
 
What is your preferred at the gun regulator?

Motor Guard RG4049 1/4 NPT Spray Gun Regulator

All I have used for at least 20 years, the Iwata, sata regulators are a waste of money and don't last as long as the motor guard.

Now that I think about it, that's a company SPI should look at buying.
Nine months ago offered to buy a paint company that was purchased by a major that failed, and I knew all they would do is kill that company, sure enough.
 
Motor Guard RG4049 1/4 NPT Spray Gun Regulator

All I have used for at least 20 years, the Iwata, sata regulators are a waste of money and don't last as long as the motor guard.

Now that I think about it, that's a company SPI should look at buying.
Nine months ago offered to buy a paint company that was purchased by a major that failed, and I knew all they would do is kill that company, sure enough.
Just ordered 2.
 
My 2 cents worth as I don't think I could make the lph orange peel paint.
If all the adjustments were played with and the air is right, it can only be a distance of gun from the panel.
Gun is made like all compliant guns 5 to 6 inches from the panel.

You are always welcome to call me with a gun in hand and a test panel; the answer is minor, and we can figure out.
Two other non-painters use my gun at the plant and will do pretest batches for me sometimes, and they lay it slick, but they leave my adjustments alone.
150+ at the wall.
Fan 90% wide open
No filters in the gun.
Fluid 2.75 to 3. Turns out.
26 to 28lbs at the gun with the trigger pulled.
Aluminum cup top, the peephole is drilled out 1/8 of an inch dia.

Now you got me curious. I'll try bumping the air pressure up a bit next time. All other adjustments seem to be the same.
 
Motor Guard RG4049 1/4 NPT Spray Gun Regulator

All I have used for at least 20 years, the Iwata, sata regulators are a waste of money and don't last as long as the motor guard.

Now that I think about it, that's a company SPI should look at buying.
Nine months ago offered to buy a paint company that was purchased by a major that failed, and I knew all they would do is kill that company, sure enough.
i just ordered one also. I've used the iwata that came with my lph400 for years. May be part of the problem with Universal.
 
When you say 90% open on the fan, how much of a turn is that in from fully open?

After reading your posts I have something Id like to try with my air system too, it seems like a small change but might make a good difference.

When you open the fan too far the pattern begins to separate. Just turn it in until it fully covers.
 
Most I have been out is a 1/2 turn in from fully open on the fan, I personally like it better at 1 turn in from open as I get a little less orange peel.

At 2.5 to 3 turns out on the fluid is it even possible to blow out the center or separate? Guess Ive never tried it with the fan backed out all the way and with that amount of fluid.
 
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