What Reducer for Chassis Saver
- Thread starter JC Daniel
- Start date
I did tell the customer that I was going to epoxy the frame but he listened to some of his friends and said he wants chassis saver instead, My question is this now. The frame has been rid of all "loose rust"can epoxy be sprayed over the rust and seal it or does it have to be sandblasted? I really appreciate all the help I get from you guys, I try to put it into action but when the customer insist on something else I just tell them I make no slakes on their claim.
Of course it really needs to be clean of any rust, dirt, grease,etc. for a permanent repair, but I would rather use rustoleum in a can than a MCU because I've seen the damage it can cause even when using their procedures to the letter. Adhesion is not good to a clean metal surface, and any moisture between it and the metal will accelerate the rust that is there. So if you have clean metal next to rust, it will let loose of the clean metal and let moisture underneath causing more rust where there was none before. I understand a customer insisting on something, but telling him you will not be responsible may not be good enough when his frame is rotten beyond repair. He chose you to do the job, not his friends. You have to insist on doing what you know is right, because your name will be on it, not his friends. NEVER let customers choose the material you have to stand behind, because if it does fail, it will be your fault, because his friends told him it was the best thing going, and you must have done something wrong. Please don't take this reply the wrong way, I'm just trying to keep you from making mistakes I've learned from the hard way.
I understand completely what you are saying, I told him that I had epoxy band that would be his best choice but he insisted that I use chassis saver. He don't want to blast the frame and said "just paint over the rust that is left", He removed all loose rust but there is still a rusty frame. Believe me I want to do things the right way from start to finish, I have a long way to go and a short time to get there. Thank you and know that I appreciate all the help and advice!
anotheridiot
Member
they have their own reducer for that, called S8. Just google it and get the tech sheet https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&ved=2ahUKEwjH8K-Pz_3kAhVHiqwKHQ6nDKYQFjAGegQIBRAC&url=https://www.magnetpaints.com/MSDS-TECH/TDS_UCP99.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0DAL3JeeMlAjHuh8R4Ca40 instead of getting reamed.
I really do not know what the whole problem with moisture cure urethane is, its just another way of saying air dry, actually dries better in higher humidity, there is nothing to do with moisture involved other than the moisture in the air and sounding more durable than air dry.
Does not matter if the customer is right, it is out of your hands. You made your point to him, now he has nobody to blame but himself when the rust seeps thru again
I really do not know what the whole problem with moisture cure urethane is, its just another way of saying air dry, actually dries better in higher humidity, there is nothing to do with moisture involved other than the moisture in the air and sounding more durable than air dry.
Does not matter if the customer is right, it is out of your hands. You made your point to him, now he has nobody to blame but himself when the rust seeps thru again
I told him spi epoxy will last longer than anything else, I also told him we could cover the cab and blast the rear frame but he does not want to pay more money out so I am spraying some chassis saver on the frame tomorrow. He asked me if I could spray epoxy before chasis saver and I told him that defeats the purpose so we are moving on with his plan, He said if it last me 3 or 4 more years I will be satisfied. People want an awesome job done on a rust bucket but want to complain about the price that is charged.
I used it on one of my projects years ago before I knew better. Don't ask why I remember this, but they make their own reducer it is called "S 8 Reducer".
If you want to help this guy, maybe you could convince him to have it blasted and put the SPI epoxy on first. That way when the chassis saver gets a chip and flakes off, all of your work won't be wasted. If they guy is seeming hard to work with, you'd probably be better off to explain that you are helping him the best way you know how by not taking the job.
If you want to help this guy, maybe you could convince him to have it blasted and put the SPI epoxy on first. That way when the chassis saver gets a chip and flakes off, all of your work won't be wasted. If they guy is seeming hard to work with, you'd probably be better off to explain that you are helping him the best way you know how by not taking the job.
anotheridiot
Member
They usually do not want it over bare metal, they want it over that porous rust, they all say to just get the loose stuff off. I think they count on the porosity and conversion process to form the adhesion.
So if you get the loose stuff off and hit bare metal, do you have to wait till the metal rusts to apply so it will stick? What conversion process does it do? I thought it was just a coating, but I must have used it wrong and that is why it failed.
anotheridiot
Member
any time I have wire brushed loose stuff off, I have a black, pitted, with some orange rust surface. Sounds like you went too far to get bare metal, none of these claim to stick to clean bare metal. You put the worlds greatest epoxy over that, its not sticking either. Hell, the worlds greatest epoxy will not work right if you dont have the 80 grit bite on the metal. Will people hate on epoxy if the chemical cure and air dry process starts to be called moisture cure?
NextGen Classics
Floor sweeper
I would not try talking him into using epoxy at all.Sounds like a poorly prepped surface and nothing will save that. Rust will come thru epoxy,then it will be your fault cause you said it was better.