What size orbital for metal prep 3/32 or 3/16

MJM

MJM

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Going to take the car down to bare metal, no chemicals or blasting. What size orbital should I buy 3/32 or 3/16.

Thank you,
 
Thanks Don,

I should have mentioned I will be stripping the majority of paint via the razor blade method. Then go over the surface area to remove the remaining primer left behind.

So a 3/16 orbital with 80 grit for final metal prep before epoxy primer. Is this correct?
 
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no chemicals or strippers but a razor blade? Whatever you get, start with some 36 grit and save the 80 for prepping the final scratch to save a little time
 
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MJM said:
Thanks Don,

I should have mentioned I will be stripping the majority of paint via the razor blade methode. Then go over the surface area to remove the remaining primer left behind.

So a 3/16 orbital with 80 grit for final metal prep before epoxy primer. Is this correct?
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Yes. That should work. Razor blades works well on some cars. On others it doesn’t. You won’t know until you try.

Don
 
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All good points. The vehicle I'm repainting was painted almost 30 years ago. The vehicle at that time was taken down to metal and sprayed in lacquer. Though the paint still holds a good shine, the paint has spidered webbed and checked all over the car.

Thus the reason for the repaint.
 
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I always try the razor blade method first. It is way faster than a DA no matter what grit you use.
Warm an area to soften the paint with your heat gun, once you can get the blade under the paint just move the whole assembly (heat gun and scraper) slowly down the panel. The paint layers will curl up and break off along the way.

After that 80 grit on the DA and your good.
Rust Pits Media Blasted.JPG
 
68 Coronet R/T,

Thanks for the razor method tips. I'm pulling my hair out wanting to put a razor blade to the car but, it still just to cold. Then we will be coming into rainy season and humidity for about 1-1/2 months. This all starts around March. My best window of opportunity to take the car down to bare metal and get it under epoxy primer will be end of May beginning of June.

I hope my metal looks as good as the picture you posted. Time will tell.
 
@MJM Instead of taking the whole car down to metal, just do a panel or two at a time, and epoxy them when it's warm enough. That way it will be ready for the next step by May. If humidity and rain were a problem, I'd never be able to spray epoxy :)
 
texasking said:
@MJM Instead of taking the whole car down to metal, just do a panel or two at a time, and epoxy them when it's warm enough. That way it will be ready for the next step by May. If humidity and rain were a problem, I'd never be able to spray epoxy :)
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Tex,
I would love to start taking the paint off now, panel by panel but, I was concerned about flash rust. Also I won't have a minimum 60 degree air temp for 24 hours until June for the epoxy.

Thoughts?
 
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Can you keep one panel heated for 24 hrs.? I have to do it all winter, because I can't keep my whole shop above 65. You could start by razor blading one panel, sanding with 80#, and epoxy as soon after final sanding as possible. A little flash rust comes off easily with 80# DA, if it did happen. A small electric heater will keep one panel warm if it is in a small area. Use tarps, plywood, or even cardboard to make a temporary small space just big enough for the part. Pick a day it will be warm during the day and spray it early, making sure to heat the panel and material above 65. After spraying, place in "small room" with heater. An infrared thermometer is a necessity to check metal temperature when doing this.
 
Texasking is right about doing a panel at a time. That is what I am doing now as the colder temperatures and the rough condition of the metal pretty much requires it.
Once the metal is sealed with epoxy, it will remain rust free longer than you and I will live.

I bought one of these to keep the paint booth warm.


Space Heater.jpg


Northern Tool sells them but it does take 220 volt power. I have it running in the booth right now to get the metal temps up to 70 degrees.
For safety concerns I turn it off while spraying but once the panel is sprayed with epoxy and any fumes cleared, I leave this heater on overnight because night time temps are still in the 20s here.
 
MJM said:
Tex,
I would love to start taking the paint off now, panel by panel but, I was concerned about flash rust. Also I won't have a minimum 60 degree air temp for 24 hours until June for the epoxy.

Thoughts?
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FWIW in my experience flash rust is only an issue with blasted metal. I find sanded panels don’t rust easily. Just keep your hands off them.

Don
 
My paint booth is my garage. It is 25x30 with 12' ceilings. The garage is fully insulated with drywall walls and ceiling. The garage will stay roughly 10* to 15* warmer than outside temps. Right now outside temps are 45* and vehicle surface temp via my digital infrared temp gauge is 55*.
After reading the last replies, I looked up some electric heaters. I found this one https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...e17cc2e14ac3108768a0a2d8015f1509&gclsrc=3p.ds

If I went this route, here's my questions:

1. I know I could heat up the garage and vehicle to at least 65*. Shut off the electric heater and paint. Then turn the heater back on to maintain 65* for 24 hours. My question is, how long does it take once painting is complete for fumes to dissipate? I also have an in garage propane water heater with a pilot lite flame. The water heater is in a closet with doors but, it's not anywhere near sealed.

Just concerned about blowing myself up, lol
 
I insulated my block garage - just ceiling. Fired up 2 kerosene torpedo heaters one evening when it was zero out- forgot about it and went out 3 hours later....103 degrees !! Shut them off and it was still 80 degrees in the morning with one of those electrical heaters running all night - shut the water heater off before you paint
 
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