Which cleaner do you need? Solvent or Waterborne?

  • Thread starter Bob Hollinshead
  • Start date
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Bob Hollinshead

I figured somebody should start a thread here, add or correct as you see fit.

Use the solvent based for heavy contaminations like:
Grease
road tar
wax
silicone
engine and driveline oils
tree sap


Waterborne for:
organic materials?
sanding sludge
light oils and waxes
fingerprints, coffee and budweiser spills

Your best bet is to use the solvent based cleaner first and follow that with the waterborne as each will remove contaminants the other can't IMO. The waterborne works really well on bare steel as well.
 
We have switched waterborne for just about everything. On the first panel cleaning we will use it, which will reveal spots that need attention with the solvent base, mostly spots of road tar. Sometimes at that point a bit of reducer and a fingernail gets used to take off any leftover molding adhesive. After that, it's waterborne all the way to the final wipe in the booth, especially for bare metal, which it inexplicably leaves squeaky clean, much cleaner than solvent ever could!
 
A subject dear to my heart for sure.

As Bob pointed out, in a perfect world you would clean with both cleaners, however we really can't ask that this addition step be taken. Although I have mentioned this over the phones a few times.

Each solvent has their own strengths and I just can't put in writing how good the waterborne is for cleaning bare metal, aluminum, chrome, stainless.

These types of substrates require a different type of cleaning and to prove it to yourself, next time you have sandblasted bare metal, with clean towels clean a three foot spot with the solventbourne, then with clean towels go over the same spot with the waterborne, the clean towels will look like you did not even clean in the first step, so important to adhesion.

Interiors, a real problem as you have many different types of greases, silicones and waxes.
First step, clean with solvent, then clean twice with the water, you will never have a problem again.

Another case in point, if you have a stainless steel sink, show momma how to clean it with the waterborne, don't you do it or it will be an assigned job like it is for me, every Saturday. Be smart!!!!
 
Yes I think w/b cleaner is only avail. in gal. I myself have both solvent w/g cleaner and w/b cleaner on hand and find I use the w/b majority of the time but once and while I need the solvent w/g remover too. Joe.
 
A gallon of each is money well spent, believe me. Improperly removed contaminants can ruin hundreds of hours of work!
 
I'm a newbie to this hobby and I use the solvent and waterborne wax and grease remover made by SPI. I purchased a gallon of solvent wax and grease remover from local jobber and what a difference in product. The Spi stuff stays wetter longer and cleans better than the other I bought and cleanes a thousand times better.
 
Joe, its hard to say not knowing the brand.

There are a lot of ways to make a wax and grease remover, contrary to the notion, its just mineral spirits.
One of the key items is finding the proper speed of drying as you pointed out, if to fast, it is a lousy cleaner, if to slow, no one will ever use it again.

There are some real crap ones out there on the market but there are also some real good ones.
 
Barry, Its made by Klean strip an is called Prep all. I would of not known the difference between them and the SPI brands if I didn't try it. Spi has Quality product. I have learned so much off the Spi forums and Autobody 101. The local jobbers way had me spending more money doing it their way. I did talk to a body shop that told me just about same as the forums I've been on.
 
There are special prep wipes available from paint jobbers for this task, but a low budget, proven wipe is Bounty white paper towels (no print). Throw away the first and last sheets that have glue on them. They are slightly lintier than special purpose wipes, but they will get the job done.

Wet wipe, then dry wipe until there are no visible traces of any contaminant on the wipe. If the dry wipe especially has any trace of material on it, you are not done. Never let the W&G remover dry on the surface, if it does, re-wipe and dry again. Depending on the temperature, you may have to confine wiping to a 2-4 square foot area at one time.

Never use rags out of the wash, washers are not able to remove enough contamination.
 
Thanks Crash. Do you spray the cleaner on the metal or soak the towel and use it that way? I plan on phoning in an order tomorrow for some epoxy and some waterborne. I am hoping to get started on my pickup soon.
 
RAC65;639 said:
Thanks Crash. Do you spray the cleaner on the metal or soak the towel and use it that way?
Click to expand...

Either way is acceptable, as long as you are able to wipe the entire area you are trying to clean without the cleaner drying before you wipe it with the second wipe.

We have found that spraying the panel actually conserves material, but is sometimes not adequate on larger panels/warm temps/lower humidity.

Usually we saturate the wipe instead.
 
I have to say that I haven't found either product to be truly effective on the stuff I encounter daily. I need something that will completely remove the tire dressing type product that my dealers hose on every part of the car. The only thing that gets it off is scuff paste. If I could get rid of the dressing I would increase my production by 30%. Any suggestions?
 
crashtech;632 said:
There are special prep wipes available from paint jobbers for this task, but a low budget, proven wipe is Bounty white paper towels (no print).


Crash, Have you used the blue disposable shop towls on the roll to clean with wax and grease remover?
Click to expand...
 
I either spry it on or wipe it on but just use what they call prep wipes, no particular brand just can of buy what the jobber has on sale or in stock.
 
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