S
SmokeyHaze
I'm helping my grandfather out, and painting his 73 vette for him. The car started out silver and had 1 respray to black I'd say sometime in the 90's. The corvette was pretty straight already and paint had no issues other than one spot which over time had settled into a little body filler and ringed. For the most part it was just stone chips and very minor waves in the body. Everything going on the car is from SPI except the base. I am using the epoxy, standard 2K primer, UV clear with slow hardener. I also bought SPI slow reducer I was planning to use in the PPG solvent base. The color is going to be Tuxedo Black from Ford, paint code UH.
I started out by just stripping most of the paint off the car with 120 grit on a DA. Everything sanded really nice. Let the car sit a couple days, and sprayed 2 coats of epoxy. Waited about a week, then hand blocked with 180 and sprayed on 2 more coats of epoxy. Let the car sit for about 7-8 days and block sanded with 240 and sprayed 2 coats of the standard SPI 2k primer. I have yet to do anything with the car since, and will be blocking off most of the 2k to get the car straight. If its where I'd like it to be, I will be getting the car ready for the booth some weekend soon.
Now that you have most of the information on my overall, my question is what sealer do you guys recommend? At work I seal everything with a solvent based sealer from PPG used for waterborne. At first I was planning to use a Deltron PPG sealer for solvent, then changed to using reduced epoxy from SPI because I already had everything needed and it would be a good black base, to base over. After reading almost every post on here it seems like most people use the reduced epoxy mostly as a adhesion promoter. Id like to have something solid to lock everything underneath of it down and have good hold out for everything over top.
Could I block sand this 2k and do another 1-2 coats of black epoxy, final block with 600 and base? In theory to me, it would be a stronger version of the reduced epoxy sealer. I read a thread from 2011 on here in which someone said still seal overtop. I know its different but the PPG epoxy I spray at work can be based right over top. Wasn't sure if this epoxy could be also. Thanks for taking the time to read all this and hope I get some good responses!
-Derek
I started out by just stripping most of the paint off the car with 120 grit on a DA. Everything sanded really nice. Let the car sit a couple days, and sprayed 2 coats of epoxy. Waited about a week, then hand blocked with 180 and sprayed on 2 more coats of epoxy. Let the car sit for about 7-8 days and block sanded with 240 and sprayed 2 coats of the standard SPI 2k primer. I have yet to do anything with the car since, and will be blocking off most of the 2k to get the car straight. If its where I'd like it to be, I will be getting the car ready for the booth some weekend soon.
Now that you have most of the information on my overall, my question is what sealer do you guys recommend? At work I seal everything with a solvent based sealer from PPG used for waterborne. At first I was planning to use a Deltron PPG sealer for solvent, then changed to using reduced epoxy from SPI because I already had everything needed and it would be a good black base, to base over. After reading almost every post on here it seems like most people use the reduced epoxy mostly as a adhesion promoter. Id like to have something solid to lock everything underneath of it down and have good hold out for everything over top.
Could I block sand this 2k and do another 1-2 coats of black epoxy, final block with 600 and base? In theory to me, it would be a stronger version of the reduced epoxy sealer. I read a thread from 2011 on here in which someone said still seal overtop. I know its different but the PPG epoxy I spray at work can be based right over top. Wasn't sure if this epoxy could be also. Thanks for taking the time to read all this and hope I get some good responses!
-Derek