Why is POR-15 so frowned upon?

I will use epoxy from now on, once I started lurking on this forum I quickly learned it is a great product and is the proper one to use where I had previously assumed POR-15 would be a good choice. That question about rust was mostly curiosity, I really enjoy learning the hows and whys instead of just "do this".

I also want to thank you and everyone else who has helped satisfy my curiosity, it's interesting to truly figure out how something works (or in this case, why it doesn't work). Also thank you for the help in the spray gun thread of mine. Great to have someone who has tried so many guns.
 
I'm not as knowledgeable as you guys, but to me simply sealing up something that has been compromised (both structurally and chemically) just doesn't make sense.
 
the problem comes into play where the rust has been on the panel awhile. maybe its pitted a little as well. the coating doesnt get down into the pits and under the rust leaving a tiny bit of oxygen there for it to continue. this is why you can get away with priming over a clean panel that has a bit of flash rust. its only on the surface and the coating will seal. thick rust or pits and your really not sealing like you think you are.
 
Lets just say that POR15 is for people who their motto is : "That'll do"

I dont believe in hiding rust , sooner or later it will creep out.
 
people are fooled because it's shiny . then they swear by it on line . but believe me they will not come back later and admit to the disaster they have .
 
go read about it on other sites. hr.com considers it the holy grail . you tell the truth about it and they go nuts. but then they think duplicolor and shopline are top of the line . sadly the diy guy reads that crap and knows no better.
 
It's hard to find a forum that you can really trust, but the attitude of the members generally shows the quality of the knowledge. Pro-touring's forum is amazing, incredibly knowledgeable members and completely open discussions with attitudes checked at the door. C10forum is about the polar opposite, a bunch of arrogant lazy people who ask questions that make you wonder how they managed to type in the website without screwing up. I frequent C10 to see what guys are doing with theirs, but I am constantly considering leaving because of the BS. The knowledge on the site is very low, but the pride is very high, if what they say isn't right then screw you, you're an idiot.

As far as I can see, this is one of the best painting forums I've seen. I've been looking for a site like this for a while and I am very glad I found it. Also, a side track to the original discussion, but if anyone has any other great body and paint forums I would love to know.
 
mitch_04;30518 said:
As far as I can see, this is one of the best painting forums I've seen. I've been looking for a site like this for a while and I am very glad I found it. Also, a side track to the original discussion, but if anyone has any other great body and paint forums I would love to know.
Mitch,
Most forums are started by people who have an interest in a subject. They set up the site, find advertisers and then give control of the conversations to "moderators" who may or may not care how accurate the advise or conversations turn out to be. This forum is different. The man who developed the products, manufacturing processes, marketing strategy and customer care system also decided to start a user forum. I am unaware of any paint forum on the planet that has the CEO's cell phone number posted on the site. If there is one, I'm pretty sure your call is forwarded to a "press one for sales, press two for technical support, press three if you'd like us to ignore your call and press four if you'd like this message repeated".

If you have a problem with an SPI product you are using, or you just want help setting up your gun to spray any paint product, the Owner and Chief Executive Officer of SPI answers your call and gives you his best advice. I don't believe Barry has ever blown anyone off when they called even on a Saturday or Sunday evening. OK, maybe Shine but that's a special case.

This might be the biggest difference. If you post a question about a competing product, someone on this forum has used it and will give you their best advice. If you call or post a question about SPI on any other paint forum, you'll hear from people who have never used SPI but know the nephew of their next door neighbor's best friend couldn't get it to stick to clean bare steel (after they soda blasted the car and gave it a light coat of transmission fluid).
 
Hmm... so you shouldn't use tranny fluid to keep metal from rusting before primer? Well, that stops me from asking my next question...



...just kidding. This is a great forum, and although I haven't felt the need to call Barry yet (I'm not going to lie, I don't want to bother him unless it's an important question) it is great to know he is available for even the "little guys".
 
I haven't posted on hotrodders.com in years. The constant stream of know-it-alls handing out horrible advice just got too exhausting. Every time one of those internet experts had to be corrected, it turned into a huge butthurt festival.
 
Older thread but I am in the process of repairing/painting a hood and was going to epoxy prime the underside (I like to do this on hoods that are not painted car color) but I suspect that previous owner may have use POR 15 on it. I do not/will not take the underside to bare metal. Is there a sure way to tell?
 
Curiosity has me here, why are you unwilling to take the underside to bare metal? It has been said before, this forum is filled with people who do things the right way or not at all, so you might not get the best response.

That being said, if it was me I would put a little epoxy on a few spots and see how it reacts. I had poured some POR15 on cement outside the shop and a few months later poured some base coat over it. It bubbled almost instantly, but that was with basecoat as well, not epoxy.

POR-15 does make a binder as well if it turns out to be POR15.
 
Way too much work to take down the underneath in this situation. Doesn't look that bad but I like the sheen and protection of the epoxy.
 
I think the underside of any hood is a lot of work to strip! Some guys even separate the outer and inner to get 100% coverage, now that's a lot of work, but like I said this forum is filled with perfectionists (A good thing).

If I were in your situation and set on not stripping the unknown coating, I'd do one of 2 things.

1. What I already mentioned, doing a test spot.

2. Contacting POR-15 and asking if there is any way to determine if it's their product or another.

Just remember, it could even be a completely different product, it's pretty hard to guess who made the paint just by looking.
 
One thing I have found the Por-15 seam sealer/ contact adhesive in a tube does very good at bonding and rebuilding broken plastic parts. Using small files to shape after curing. I alway keep a tube on hand for that purpose.
 
I know this is old, yet this got me to not use the stuff. THANK YOU! I’d been so close to ordering the whole slew of Por15 products & these posts completely switched my mindset.

This mentioned, I’ve got a 2004 Dodge (MB) Sprinter with some rust (fortunately, the orig owner garage kept it most of the time, hence why it’s not a pile of rust, though it is still flaking lots.) I’d hoped to spot treat till I could get a REAL paint job. I’m not sure this is the spot to seek a job, yet people on here seem to be incredibly knowledgeable or seeking knowledge. Is there anyone on here close to Atlanta or in Georgia who’d do the job? Like I said, I’d like a real job (which I know will come at a real price.) Too, is there anything a complete novice can do to stop the rust (& flaking) in the meantime? Rust terrifies me since T1Ns are known rust buckets!
 
I know this is old, yet this got me to not use the stuff. THANK YOU! I’d been so close to ordering the whole slew of Por15 products & these posts completely switched my mindset.

This mentioned, I’ve got a 2004 Dodge (MB) Sprinter with some rust (fortunately, the orig owner garage kept it most of the time, hence why it’s not a pile of rust, though it is still flaking lots.) I’d hoped to spot treat till I could get a REAL paint job. I’m not sure this is the spot to seek a job, yet people on here seem to be incredibly knowledgeable or seeking knowledge. Is there anyone on here close to Atlanta or in Georgia who’d do the job? Like I said, I’d like a real job (which I know will come at a real price.) Too, is there anything a complete novice can do to stop the rust (& flaking) in the meantime? Rust terrifies me since T1Ns are known rust buckets!
Barry (the Owner of SPI) I'm sure could recommend a good shop in the Atlanta area, being that is close to SPI's homebase. He's in touch with and familiar with a lot of Shops. Give him a call on the Tech Line: 404-307-9740.
 
Thank you, Chris, I will do. I’ve been looking through the forum since stumbling upon it this evening (so good I did, tomorrow would’ve been a huge mistake with Por15.) Too, so happy Patches is home!!! My LeRoi & Olie passed within months of the other this yr. Love on them every short moment they’re here
 
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