Why SPI Clear in Gallons but Activator in Quarts?

Many, many year's ago, we made the activator in gallons but like said above, some do-it-yourselves, it would take 2 or 3 years to use a gallon kit, and the activator would crap the bed.
We even have body shops that order a gallon of clear and only buy two quarts of activator
And this works well.
 
i buy activator for utech u500 single stage in gallons only because there is a cost savings. once i crack it open i end up breaking it down into quarts. if it wasnt for the price difference i would still be buying quarts.
 
I would like to buy empty cone top quarts for my Standox hardener that only comes in 2.5 liters ($528, btw), but my jobber never seems to get them for me. I should probably just find them online.
 
Does the 8 ounce calculation work the same for clear as it does for base? Or does clear go a bit farther? We’re talking a 1970 b-body “Roadrunner” 4 coats. Just purchased 1 gallon of SPI clear and 4 quarts of very slow activator. Decided to first just do the doors and trunk since they are off and see how much I actually use.
 
I would like to buy empty cone top quarts for my Standox hardener that only comes in 2.5 liters ($528, btw), but my jobber never seems to get them for me. I should probably just find them online.
crash, is there any spi product that you burn through in the qt cans? i run through a gal of 2k sealer and regular build activator per day so i just take the empty activator can, wipe the top and lid off, pull the label and refill with the u500 activator. uv clear activator cans tend to not get super crusty so those generally are easy to reuse.
 
Does the 8 ounce calculation work the same for clear as it does for base? Or does clear go a bit farther? We’re talking a 1970 b-body “Roadrunner” 4 coats. Just purchased 1 gallon of SPI clear and 4 quarts of very slow activator. Decided to first just do the doors and trunk since they are off and see how much I actually use.
Doing everything (jambs engine compartment underhood etc) I would plan on at least 2 gallons of Universal and 8 quarts of activator. Maybe more if you do more than 3 coats.
 
crash, is there any spi product that you burn through in the qt cans? i run through a gal of 2k sealer and regular build activator per day so i just take the empty activator can, wipe the top and lid off, pull the label and refill with the u500 activator. uv clear activator cans tend to not get super crusty so those generally are easy to reuse.
I do smaller jobs, so usually my quarts are pretty crunchy by the time I'm done, but it's a good idea to maybe save ones that are still okay!
 
crash, is there any spi product that you burn through in the qt cans? i run through a gal of 2k sealer and regular build activator per day so i just take the empty activator can, wipe the top and lid off, pull the label and refill with the u500 activator. uv clear activator cans tend to not get super crusty so those generally are easy to reuse.
A gallon of sealer a day? Wow…your doing some work!
 
A gallon of sealer a day? Wow…your doing some work!
No not a day lol. For the car. I am doing some separate panels first to make sure I got the right settings and process and to lower the stress of the entire shoot. I’ll follow up by assessing how much clear I have left on the remaining body. If I feel it’s cutting it close I’ll buy more.

Running out of clear in the middle of a car is my nightmare!
 
Does the 8 ounce calculation work the same for clear as it does for base? Or does clear go a bit farther? We’re talking a 1970 b-body “Roadrunner” 4 coats. Just purchased 1 gallon of SPI clear and 4 quarts of very slow activator. Decided to first just do the doors and trunk since they are off and see how much I actually use.
I think you’ll need two gallons.
 
So you are saying your clear won't go bad in a half empty gallon can, sitting for years ?
Does this fit the question ?
I'm trying to learn here and understand if I can buy a gallon and not waste money having it expire on the shelf.
Really don't understand your sarcastic response ???

Much of this has been covered before.

I have sprayed unopened cans of UV and Activator that were 7 years old.

I have also used old Activator that was opened at one point. The issue is the activator will go bad and begin to crystalize in the can. Generally a quick visual check for any crystals or seedy looking solids is sufficient.

Since the activator is the weaker element, it is better to have less of it sitting in an open can. As you found out by personal experience.
 
the clear itself doesnt really go bad provided its capped. its the activator that will go bad over the years.
 
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