why you never use POR-15 EVER!!!!

if you want or need any header to the pic you are seeing like they were in the beginning let me know and I will rewrite the posts.
 
No, everything is great. I appreciate what both of you have done. At least all of the pics are together. This is super.
 
Here are the pics of the frame that also had Por-15 applied on it as the manuf. instructions said everything was done to the letter and everything failed, big time. In a couple of the pics you can see some of it still held on but was on it's way off. Everything before this crap was applied was in no way this bad. Like it was stated from another member it did seem to speed up the cancer.

truck19.jpg truck20.jpg truck21.jpg truck22.jpg truck23.jpg truck24.jpg truck25.jpg truck27.jpg truck28.jpg
 
Every time I see someone on other forums want to use this stuff, I think about sending them to this thread. Then the selfish part of me doesn't want this place to attract too much rifraf, so I mind my own business and move on.

I started a frame off resto on my Olds W30 in 2006. First thing I did was get all that magical p15 junk. Spent about $250 for 2 quarts or p15, 1 quart of chassis black + all their prep products. Washed and scrubbed the frame, put on their magic etch cleaner. And it dried faster than I could rinse it off. Added more, and scrubbed it off. The metal never turned black. Oh well, it must have been doing it's job because I followed the instructions. Sprayed on the first coat. It looked great. For the second coat, I missed the respray window by about 2 hours. The second coat balled up like water repelling on a waxed surface. Called their tech support and they said to sand it flat, then apply their etch primer and spray again. $50 later for an aerosol can (with rush shipping) of etch primer, and I was back in business. Sprayed second coat. Then 2 coats of their chassis black, which scratched off with a fingernail. The car has been sitting in my garage nearly untouched for 9 years out of frustration of using poo15. At least it is not failing sitting in the garage. Some day, I will put the car on a rotisserie, blast it off and start over with SPI!
Balled up second coat:

Easily scratched chassis black:

Before the second coat, I sanded off the p15 over the vin number to get a picture. The rust was still there! But, oh, wait. It's ok, this is the be-all, end-all paint over rust, restoration frame paint! (insert sarcasm emoji)


Moving on, in 2007, I sprayed the bottom of the floor pan and firewall with 1 quart of DP and SS urethane. If I recall the price was also about $250. It turned out great, but expensive. In 2009, Crastech (from the Olds forum) pointed me toward SPI, and I have been following SPI and this forum ever since.

I have since moved on to a ground up build of a 57 Chevy pickup to use as a practice project to learn how to do this the RIGHT WAY! It will be 100% SPI start to finish. The frame was done with 3 coats of epoxy. Looks awesome, only used about $50 worth of epoxy, compared to the $300 I spent on p15 to paint the Olds frame. Lesson learned!

 
TO DATEC no fan of POR Loser I ment to say OR15 Wow.. How long ago did you use this crap on the truck ?

It was on the frame and bottom of the floor pan of the cab for about 4-5yrs before I did 1 rocker/cab corner replacement and coated the other side both rockers and cab corners failed big time at the same time the odd thing was one side was new and still failed with other side which original that blew my mind, that lasted 2yrs.

I knew what was going to end up happening and was fully prepaired for the work ahead and just wanted to confirm what I already knew. There was nothing I could do to stop the blistering chunks from flaking off exposing rust underneath which the rust being exposed was worse then when it was applied.

I did everything the instructions stated to do, I don't know the final cost of the experiment but it was, in my minds eye, worth it. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and do it to prove it. I also have an unopened pint of chassis black crap free to anyone who wants it :) I will also include whats left of Por's Marine clean to.
 
Every time I see someone on other forums want to use this stuff, I think about sending them to this thread. Then the selfish part of me doesn't want this place to attract too much rifraf, so I mind my own business and move on.

I started a frame off resto on my Olds W30 in 2006. First thing I did was get all that magical p15 junk. Spent about $250 for 2 quarts or p15, 1 quart of chassis black + all their prep products. Washed and scrubbed the frame, put on their magic etch cleaner. And it dried faster than I could rinse it off. Added more, and scrubbed it off. The metal never turned black. Oh well, it must have been doing it's job because I followed the instructions. Sprayed on the first coat. It looked great. For the second coat, I missed the respray window by about 2 hours. The second coat balled up like water repelling on a waxed surface. Called their tech support and they said to sand it flat, then apply their etch primer and spray again. $50 later for an aerosol can (with rush shipping) of etch primer, and I was back in business. Sprayed second coat. Then 2 coats of their chassis black, which scratched off with a fingernail. The car has been sitting in my garage nearly untouched for 9 years out of frustration of using poo15. At least it is not failing sitting in the garage. Some day, I will put the car on a rotisserie, blast it off and start over with SPI!
Balled up second coat:

Easily scratched chassis black:

Before the second coat, I sanded off the p15 over the vin number to get a picture. The rust was still there! But, oh, wait. It's ok, this is the be-all, end-all paint over rust, restoration frame paint! (insert sarcasm emoji)


Moving on, in 2007, I sprayed the bottom of the floor pan and firewall with 1 quart of DP and SS urethane. If I recall the price was also about $250. It turned out great, but expensive. In 2009, Crastech (from the Olds forum) pointed me toward SPI, and I have been following SPI and this forum ever since.

I have since moved on to a ground up build of a 57 Chevy pickup to use as a practice project to learn how to do this the RIGHT WAY! It will be 100% SPI start to finish. The frame was done with 3 coats of epoxy. Looks awesome, only used about $50 worth of epoxy, compared to the $300 I spent on p15 to paint the Olds frame. Lesson learned!


Nice looking job.
 
I remember seeing this stuff on the shelf at the paint store and wondering if and or how it was supposed to stop rust completely. I think all of us have at one time or another have used something not sure of the consequences. Ive never used this stuff or had a need to. Any frames are blasted and epoxied. Much quicker.
 
If I remember correctly I read somewhere that POR15 (MCU) got its start as a paint for steel bridges. Those never get repainted, so the stuff must perform as advertised.... :rolleyes:
 
HOLD ON !!!! Martin Senour has just brought out a new product called Rust Proof M/D this could be better then sliced bread. Sold thru Napa. Here we go another snake oil ??????????????
 
I don't have any depth of experience with SPI, but I can attest to POR15's tendancy to trap moisture and make rust worse.

On my nova when I painted it in 2003, I wire wheeled the trunk gasket tracks out sanded them, then POR15'd them. The thought was, since the rust is gone, the POr will be a tough surface to withstand the moisture that the trunk gaskets might hold in the channel. I am not 100% sure in my recollection about whether I applied Ospho first, or not. I did not use marine-clean.

Anyway, when i removed the trunk seals the POr was blistered up, and there was horrible rust, all the way through the rear tail panel and the quarter panels. The rust even happened in other areas nearby that were POR'd but had no rust before.

I did this treatment too in my rear window channel. I'm really afraid of what I'm going to find up there.
 
Might want to make this a sticky for those that are looking for the information and need/want to learn something.
 
Not everyone can sandblast so we get desperate and become victims of advertising and misinformation from other people that got duped.
Who has a book about the history and science of auto paint?
 
Not everyone can sandblast so we get desperate and become victims of advertising and misinformation from other people that got duped.
Who has a book about the history and science of auto paint?

You've got this Forum. You can count on the information presented here as true and correct. If a post isn't it gets called out pretty quick and corrected. Many of the posters here are Pro's who make their living doing this and are passionate about what they do. We don't let the Forum get muddied up with lots of BS and misinformation. Everything you need to know is here. Just have to read the various subforums.
 
There are other variants of this product which I have a 1/2 pint of called chassis black new in the can been sitting in the cabinet for a couple years. I will be happy to send it to anyone that wants it can have it.
chassis black you can keep to start a bon fire with....i used it once and after a couple weeks it was shedding faster than a snake shedding its skin.
 
First post on SPI Forums. Trying to learn everything I can.

So, I thought I was all cool with using POR-15 in my cowl area of my 69 Mustang resto. With all the comments in this forum, now I'm wondering if I should try to remove it and start over with SPI before welding things back up again. Any suggestions on how to remove it without grinding away what is left of the metal? Thanks!!
 

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