why you never use POR-15 EVER!!!!

First post on SPI Forums. Trying to learn everything I can.

So, I thought I was all cool with using POR-15 in my cowl area of my 69 Mustang resto. With all the comments in this forum, now I'm wondering if I should try to remove it and start over with SPI before welding things back up again. Any suggestions on how to remove it without grinding away what is left of the metal? Thanks!!

Get it off now before you button the car back up!
 
First post on SPI Forums. Trying to learn everything I can.

So, I thought I was all cool with using POR-15 in my cowl area of my 69 Mustang resto. With all the comments in this forum, now I'm wondering if I should try to remove it and start over with SPI before welding things back up again. Any suggestions on how to remove it without grinding away what is left of the metal? Thanks!!
If the metal is that thin, you might want to rethink what you are doing. If you post some pictures, someone might be able to give you some guidance.e
 
Just a comment?
This thread is a very good example why you should ALWAYS post your pictures directly to the forum. We have this great thread that is now old but as you can see all the dirt bag photo hosting sites have completely destroyed the pictures!
The only ones left are the ones that were directly uploaded to this forum. Those will stay good until this forum eventually dies.

DO NOT use ANY photo hosting sites ever!!!
This forum and all the others on the internet are wrecked from these incompetent ass hats!
Stop using photo hosting sites forever!
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Also it's been designated a sticky so it always stays near the top because of the very important information in it. I'm glad it's near the top so I can find it easily when I need to share the valuable info contained within it.
I'm the one who noticed the pics were gone the first time around when I was going to show them to a friend. Thanks to Datec and Dub for getting them reposted.
 
Since I completely resurrected this truck and used nothing but 100% SPI Epoxy, Base and Universal Clear. I have never washed it once and never waxed it, like in my other thread I started showing the project I said I would push Barry's products to the extreme to show just how good his products are. I also stated I would take pictures of it before I did wash it to show what total neglect looks like. I have been asked numerous times about waxing a car to protect the new paint from sun damage. I always say that's crap there is nothing to worry about and this will prove it when I post the pics. I can tell you there is only one issue with it and it has nothing to do with the material used, the drivers fender rusted out at the wheel arch and is going to get replaced, short of that nothing worth getting to worried about. When it gets back from getting inspected and a slight mechanical issue fixed I will get some pics uploaded in my other thread to show what it looks like today.
 
First post on SPI Forums. Trying to learn everything I can.

So, I thought I was all cool with using POR-15 in my cowl area of my 69 Mustang resto. With all the comments in this forum, now I'm wondering if I should try to remove it and start over with SPI before welding things back up again. Any suggestions on how to remove it without grinding away what is left of the metal? Thanks!!
Time to invest in media blasting, either DIY or professionally.
 
So I already painted my chasis with por15, after reading this I am regretting it. My chasis wasn't hardly rusty, do I paint over what I did or should I remove the por15? What's the best chasis paint (glossy black) to use?
 
So I already painted my chasis with por15, after reading this I am regretting it. My chasis wasn't hardly rusty, do I paint over what I did or should I remove the por15? What's the best chasis paint (glossy black) to use?
It sucks, but I'd take it off. I did my F-150's frame with epoxy and never looked back.

20170521_222705259_iOS.jpg
 
So I already painted my chasis with por15, after reading this I am regretting it. My chasis wasn't hardly rusty, do I paint over what I did or should I remove the por15? What's the best chasis paint (glossy black) to use?
It seems like a lot of the issues are when rust was painted over, or else the metal doesn't have enough tooth for it. If your chassis was mostly clean of rust and had 80 grit tooth in it, I'd just leave. I used something similar (it was Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint, but same thing...a black MCU that's glossy just like pore) in 2009 when I didn't know any better...and everything that was painted with it is still fine.

Now for chassis paints I'll use black epoxy or Mastercoat AG111 is a good, super durable urethane chassis paint that I've used on several frames.
 
For whatever it is worth to consider--I would leave it as Lizer suggests. I've used the product you are concerned about removing and it was fine for me. It has held up well. I would not use it again due to its expense and that I like using more of the black epoxies for a lot of things. I really just like having fewer separate products now. SPI black epoxy--lot of versatility.

Something I do a bit differently than others and have done for many years on undercarriages, frame rails, etc. is to use pneumatic needle scalers for giving such surfaces some tooth for paint adhesion with dimpling rather than a scratch pattern from grinding or media blasting. Sometimes I sharpen my needles down to conical points for really nasty rusted surfaces and on springs use a rounded point and fast movement just enough to give a tooth for paint to adhere to.

I did this in 1978 on my 1964 Chevrolet C-10 chassis and painted it with Standard Brands Zynolyte paint. Your options were limited then at least where I lived. Now you have way more choices and better products. That chassis paint job still looked fresh, was well adhered and free from any rust that I could see when I scrapped the truck in perhaps 2008. I drove it over 200,000 miles doing a refurbishment in 1977-1980 just to make a useable truck to have when I wanted one.
 
It seems like a lot of the issues are when rust was painted over, or else the metal doesn't have enough tooth for it. If your chassis was mostly clean of rust and had 80 grit tooth in it, I'd just leave. I used something similar (it was Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint, but same thing...a black MCU that's glossy just like pore) in 2009 when I didn't know any better...and everything that was painted with it is still fine.

Now for chassis paints I'll use black epoxy or Mastercoat AG111 is a good, super durable urethane chassis paint that I've used on several frames.
Not true at all. Those pics of my rockers were brand new replacement rockers and were 80grt sanded inside and out and were prepped properly and had Por-15 applied inside and out before I installed them and you can clearly see the absolutely disgusting mess they turned into. In fact the whole bottom of the truck I sand blasted and had put that crap on it and that's what you see in the pics.
 
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