Your favorite Poly primer??

O

OJ86

Promoted Users
I've always used Evercoat products, and recently I have been using Superbuild 4:1. It sands like cement though.... What are you go to Poly's? I've been wanting to give Clausens "all you need" primer a shot. I'm curious how it sands though.

Just to add, I understand that a poly primer is always going to be a chore to sand, just curious on what others have used and like.
 
Clawsen has always been a favorite but sometimes hard to find as they are a small company.
Upols a good one and made by a top notch company over seas but they could have changed, so its been a few years.
 
I use Clausen Z-Chrome Rust Defender. I get it on eBay. Not cheap but doesn’t sand like concrete imho. The built in guide coat is nice too. Clausen All U Need is essentially same product but with color selection.

Don
 
The only one ive used is Evercoat Slicksand. Its been a few years but I recall it not being fun to sand. The paper couldve been a contributing factor as well. Ive since changed paper brands. The slicksand had great build though.
 
I have always been happy with G2 Featherfill. Sands fairly easy.
'65 Buick Special Convertible quarter panel had a bit of bondo on it from previous hack.
Deep Bondo.JPG

No repo panels were available so I found a used one and installed it. After epoxy primer and a light block sanding it looked pretty rough:
LH Quarter Filler Work Needed 1.JPG


3 coats of Evercoat G2 and things looked much better:
LH Quarter - Poly Primer.JPG
 
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Slicksand was my go to, although now unless it's a really bad panel, I just use two or three more coats of SPI epoxy, the build with the epoxy is great. With slicksand start sanding with coarse grits, 150 or 180 first to get it flat or you'll find yourself with a do over. Don't push hard, let the sandpaper do the work and change it often.

With epoxy or slicksand, put it all on before you start sanding. Two more coats than you think is enough...
 
Slofut said:
Slicksand was my go to, although now unless it's a really bad panel, I just use two or three more coats of SPI epoxy, the build with the epoxy is great. With slicksand start sanding with coarse grits, 150 or 180 first to get it flat or you'll find yourself with a do over. Don't push hard, let the sandpaper do the work and change it often.

With epoxy or slicksand, put it all on before you start sanding. Two more coats than you think is enough...
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How many coats would you put on a "bad" panel? I ran slicksand on an old fiberglass car that had tons of damage (tree hit it, and hurricane Katrina submerged it) and I ended up priming the thing like 4 times due to pin holes ( which i filled with glaze putty) and general uneveness from repairs. I did about 2-3 coats per session. I guess I should have hammered like 5 or 6 coats each time to save myself the extra sanding work? I used at least a gallon each time...
 
Hard to say without seeing it but if it's bad 5 or 6 coats prob isn't out of the question. Better too much, you'll have plenty to get things straight in one pass. It takes one or two coats to level the orange peel from the slicksand. Wish I knew more about Superbuild that Rosharon is suggesting. Take a look at that too, I haven't used it.
 
I used featherfill years back, dont recall if its any easier to sand. Coarse grit is your friend with this stuff.
 
I have no problem sanding this with 150 of course 80 cuts it quicker
 

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Waaaay back in the 80’s, I used Marson’s Eliminator. I liked it and knew the car I put it on until it was redone a few years ago. It held up well.

I don’t know of it is still made.

John
 
Anyone used Sikkens or Glasurit poly primers? Curious if there is any real difference between them and the more "conventional" stuff. (other than the cost:))
 
Has anyone used Evercoat's OPTEX Super Build? It's advertised as a hybrid epoxy-polyester and can go over bare steel. It's got a built-in guide coat (sprays pink and turns grey as you sand). The guide coat thing is not a big deal, but I am looking for a primer that can go over bare steel. I have some blasted parts coming back and of course I'm shooting them all with (2) coats of epoxy, but once I start the filler work I will inevitably end up with bare steel. This wouldn't be an issue normally, but I see myself doing bodywork through the winter and epoxy isn't going to be the best option because I can't keep heat on it for 24 hours so I'm looking for a primer that dries fast like 2K so I don't have to worry about the heat issue.
 
I've went through about 4 gallons of the Pink Superuild. I only bought it because it was on sale on autobodytoolmart. That being said, it works and builds the same as the normal superbuild. The pink "Guide coat" gets lighter as it dries and sometimes when sanding it will tend to blend in with the gray. IMO, its a novelty item that if I had to pay extra for I wouldn't. Would work better imo if it sprayed a dark gray or black and sanded lighter. I've put it on top of bare steel with no adhesion issues that I have noticed.

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orangejuiced86 said:
I've went through about 4 gallons of the Pink Superuild. I only bought it because it was on sale on autobodytoolmart. That being said, it works and builds the same as the normal superbuild. The pink "Guide coat" gets lighter as it dries and sometimes when sanding it will tend to blend in with the gray. IMO, its a novelty item that if I had to pay extra for I wouldn't. Would work better imo if it sprayed a dark gray or black and sanded lighter. I've put it on top of bare steel with no adhesion issues that I have noticed.

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Yeah I don't care about the built in guide coat, it's just the adhesion to bare metal and quick drying that I'm looking for so I don't have to worry about keeping heat on parts into the night.
 
The local Evercoat rep. gave me a gallon of Optex for free last summer provided I give them feedback. My feedback was the build rate was good, just like the regular 4:1 primer , sanded real hard, and the guide coast feature what nice I might pay $10/gallon more for. Although I could tell where the sandpaper is contacting the surface and where it isn't without guide coat. I can speak to the adhesion to bare substrate since I applied it over SPI epoxy over fiberglass.
Optex instructions say: Ready to sand in about 2 hours @ 72°F (22°C), depending on film build .
It say's nothing about minimum temp. to apply.
 
As far as temp goes, youre going to want to treat it like every other paint product. While its probably not as temperature sensitive like epoxy, it still needs to be 65ish degrees(surface temp) when applied and kept there until it cures fully.

What I noticed with the evercoat 4:1 products compared to the slick sand and G2 primers is that there is shrinkage. Its not a ton, but its there. The left overs in the mixing cup dont lie. I never saw that with the previous line of poly's that used the small amount of hardener to activate.
 
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