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Thread: Wanda

  1. #21
    yea, just a tad. both are cleared with wanda clear. could be off in the mix, this is why i like to mix my own colors....people think i'm crazy for having a mixing machine and i mainly do restorations......but when those small jobs come in i need the paint now and i dont need any mistakes.....if there are i'd rather them be mine that i can correct within a few minutes..rather than wait on a store 10 min away.

    but as of the moment i dont have any complaints with the wanda base. i held the sikkens panel up to the colormap chip which the code calls for in their book, no where close to it....that has been a problem with sikkens ever since they introduced autobase plus. must be the reason they finally stopped producing the color map book. i'm going to take the panel to the store and check the wanda book and see how close it is.

    i should go down in get some matrix and see how close....i mean far off it is..lol.

  2. #22
    sprayed some silver today...bmw silver gray and blended hood, header panel, cowl screen, and door. first of all the colormatch was second to none....the sprayout matched the color in the sikkens book....and was relatively close to the car (have NO idea what paint was used on the car). the blend was easy, imo easier than with sikkens......i would always fight a bit of mottle with sikkens in a silver blend, used rm bc00 as a wet bed. i purposely left a few pinholes in the bodywork, very small, to see how the base would act with sanding and filling those pinholes...did as good as sikkens. this car is by no means a show piece.

    my only complaint as of now, really isn't one though, is that it sprays a little on the dry side. i've been using sikkens for so long i'm used to a wet spraying base..as with lesonal, diamont and spies that i've used. metallic laid even and effortlessly.







  3. #23
    Polyester Prince Bondoking's Avatar
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    Looks great!
    Number one reason for failure in small /new business is treating the money like it is yours.... Quote from Shine!!

  4. #24
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    I would without a doubt be activating that base until you have experience with it.
    Dry spray fast dry on a silver could be a long term disaster waiting to happen. Activator should help with this.

    4003 or 4004 one ounce per mix quart, the slower the activator the better.

    Just my 2 cents worth!
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  5. #25
    i agree, and i'm not saying it sprays dry with dry spray, just compared to sikkens it doesn't spray as wet. always using slow or extra slow reducers and activators. only fast activators on my shelf are for quick jobs and they are for clear only.

  6. #26
    Oldtimer Jim C's Avatar
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    sikkens has always been know as being a hot system, same with basf. this is probably why the sikkens sprayed a little wetter.
    all spi gallery: www.xtremekreations.com

  7. #27
    Today I got my hands on some Wanda basecoat, I got half a pint of some Hyundai silver (2R code), they mixed the standard formula, it was spot on. Coverage was alright at 3 coats, I usually lay down intercoat clear before the base but this time around I decided to skip it and see how fast the color would cover and how it would blend, like Jeremy said it does spray a little on the dry side but overall it worked pretty good, seemed to cover a couple of scratches of 400 dry I failed to remove when final sanding with 600 wet, so far so good.

    Just for the hell of it I got a mix of 4oz of Toyota Olive (6T7 code), I had to do a very small spot on the lower corner of a bumper, this mix was quite a bit off. Im guessing the lady mixing it went too crazy with one of the toners in the formula and threw it off being that it was only 4 oz, it was very easy to tint to a good match though. Sprayed nice and even, 3 coats for full hiding, another coat just to be 100% sure, blended very nice too.

    So far I liked it better than the little I have used of Limco Supreme Plus, price wise I think it's a wash between the two, both of them way cheaper than Spies, I will be using more of it and see how the color matches compare.

  8. #28
    Jorge, I have found this base sprays way better with a 1.4 in my lph. I usually use a 1.3 with sikkens and others...but after moving to a 1.4 I won't go back with this base. It is just a little thicker than sikkens..enough to have to move up a tip size without over reducing.

  9. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by jeremyb View Post
    Jorge, I have found this base sprays way better with a 1.4 in my lph. I usually use a 1.3 with sikkens and others...but after moving to a 1.4 I won't go back with this base. It is just a little thicker than sikkens..enough to have to move up a tip size without over reducing.
    Guess I got lucky I haven't changed my LPH-400 1.4 tip then, I'm still waiting for the cold to show up here in Vegas and then switch to 1.3 but if I keep on using the wanda I'll stick with 1.4, thanks for the heads up.

    You think it will spray smoother and wetter going with slower reducer? I will try that and deal with the extra flash times.

  10. #30
    I use extra slow reducer. Only other spi reducer I've used is slow, but that was before the extra slow came out I believe. When I first started using wanda though, I used some wanda slow reducer....I could tell a major difference between that and the spi extra slow, spraying wise. The store that carries spi for me sells more SPI reducer than wanda. LOL.

    What you could do is maybe over reduce..maybe an ounce or 2 per quart. Won't be sacrificing much coverage at that rate depending on color.

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