5000-1 cutting and buffing

jakeS

jakeS

Promoted Users
Hi all, I recently switched everything in my paint room to spi. Epoxy, 2k primer, 2k sealer, clears, reducers, exedra. Im still spraying ppg dbu and martin senour base until I can get into a polyester base. I absolutely love spi but I'm having trouble cutting and buffing euro 2020. The most resent piece is a hood to a chrysler new yorker wagon im building. Stripped the hood, 2 coats of black epoxy, turbo 2k, final sand with 600 wet, epoxy reduced 20% for one sealer coat, 3 coats daytona blue poly, 45 to 60 mins between color and about 15 hours before 3 coats of euro mixed 4;1;1 out of a sata rp 5000 1.4 28psi full fluid. 10 minutes between 1 and 2 coats and exactly 30 minutes for 3rd. booth off after every coat. I ended up with a lot of urethane wave so I gave it 48 hours in the booth before sanding. Still seamed soft but I've been nervous about the buff window so I 800 wet sanded with acrylic block, 1000 with acrylic block then tried 1200/1500 with sunmight finishing film. I could not for the life of me stop pigtails. finally gave up on finishing film and am going back over with 1500 wet and a soft block. To go back in time I would have started at 600 and re cleared. Any advice on anything in my process that could be changed or tips on finishing films would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the long post and thank you so much for any time you have to spare.
 
Thanks texasking, I'm tired of chasing sand scratches so I've actually got the hood in the sun and am going to 600 grit and reclear I hope this evening so I'll turn that down to 1.75 to 2 out and try it out. Do you think 600 is the right move or since its already flat should I grey scuff? Also would another 3 coats be recommended? Thank you for your time.
 
if you stop your sanding at 1500 and try to buff that, your in for a lot of work. you need to get finer than that. 2500-3000 minimum. if euro is cured out pretty good then i would even recommend going to 8000. i do 8000 here on any clear that has sat 2-3 days or more.
 
Thanks Jim C, my usual process is 1000 with hard block, 1200 soft, 1500 soft block or 3m purple finish film on ro, then 2500 buflex wet and 3000 sunmight foam, wool pad with wizard mystic cut and finish with a rupes da and yellow foam/polish for swirl marks. With this hood these are the steps I took but for some reason I did not get my previous scratches out and am worried about having enough clear left by the time I get them out. I usually have really good luck after 3000. But I'd like to try that 8000. Do you jump from 3000 to 8k or do you hit it with 5k in between ? Thank you for the advise Jim
 
dhutton01, I am using a interface pad, its a 1/2in pad, sander is a dedicated sander for clear and is a 3/16 orbit. I am extra clean when sanding. I also use a microfiber to wipe the panel and a detailing brush to clean my disc between passes.
 
I go right from blue bufflex to 8000. No need to do any grit between. The 8000 doesnt like soft clear so use on somewhat cured clear. As don brought up, you must use a soft interface pad for all color sanding
 
Jim C said:
I go right from blue bufflex to 8000. No need to do any grit between. The 8000 doesnt like soft clear so use on somewhat cured clear. As don brought up, you must use a soft interface pad for all color sanding
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Great info Jim C thank you so much
 
I'm using a Sata 5000 RP 1.3 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns out for both Universal and Euro. Like the boys here said the 1.4 tip full fluid is a fire hose!
 
El Toro said:
I use the same Sata Gun and run fluid 1.75 to 2 turns out But 1.3 tip so your 1.4 wide open is a fire hose! That will make the clear not cure or stay soft longer then normal.
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Thanks for the tip El Toro, I just re cleared last night with fluid at 1.75 out, 29lbs at the gun and wide open fan, laid down really nice. A little more orange peel than I'd like but all in all pretty happy with it. That makes a lot of sense why it was staying soft. I'm going to get it in the sun today and cut and buff tonight or tomorrow.
 
dhutton01 said:
I haven’t tried that Wizard compound but 3D ACA 510 on their yellow wool pad is about the best I have tried and I have tried quite a few.
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dhutton I actually have the aca 510 and yellow pad and i need some more time with it to figure it out. It has the tendence to dry out on me. what rpm do you use with that? I'm kind of thinking maybe I'm using to much product. I've been using wizard with regular wool pad for 13 years but they are spendy and when I have got the aca to work it really works. Thank you so much for help
 
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