5000-1 cutting and buffing

Sorry to be off topic but I use this sata for my epoxy as well. would you guys recommend similar setting for that as far as fluid goes?
 
Chris what psi are you spraying your clear
Here a post where I went into a bit of detail.


I used to use Euro alot when doing collision repair. First thing I would advise is cut your gun way back. 1 1/2 turns out max IMO with a 1 4 tip in the RP. Probably closer to 1 1/4 turns out and 75% overlap will yield good results.

Get it atomizing nicely, that is the pressure you want to spray at. In the booth I used that pressure was 30 psi at the wall regulator. I didn't/don't use a gun regulator. IMO PSI doesn't translate 1:1. Differences in air lines,.regulators etc. Don't focus on a number, focus on how it's coming out of the gun. Hang some paper and test. Lower till it's not atomizing nicely then incrementally raise till it is. That will be the pressure you spray at.
 
Last edited:
Sorry to be off topic but I use this sata for my epoxy as well. would you guys recommend similar setting for that as far as fluid goes?
I use a first Gen RP for epoxy. 1 4 tip about 1 1/2 to at most 2 turns out. I think the tips on the 5000's are bigger (actual size) than earlier RP's like the one I use for epoxy. Main thing IMO is to adjust your air pressure to spray at the lowest possible. This will help keep it from cratering when shooting unreduced epoxy. Adjust it like I described above.
 
Here a post where I went into a bit of detail.


I used to use Euro alot when doing collision repair. First thing I would advise is cut your gun way back. 1 1/2 turns out max IMO with a 1 4 tip in the RP. Probably closer to 1 1/4 turns out and 75% overlap will yield good results.

Get it atomizing nicely, that is the pressure you want to spray at. In the booth I used that pressure was 30 psi at the wall regulator. I didn't/don't use a gun regulator. IMO PSI doesn't translate 1:1. Differences in air lines,.regulators etc. Don't focus on a number, focus on how it's coming out of the gun. Hang some paper and test. Lower till it's not atomizing nicely then incrementally raise till it is. That will be the pressure you spray at.
Man I cannot tell you and everyone else on here how thankful I am for all the great response's.
 
I use a first Gen RP for epoxy. 1 4 tip about 1 1/2 to at most 2 turns out. I think the tips on the 5000's are bigger (actual size) than earlier RP's like the one I use for epoxy. Main thing IMO is to adjust your air pressure to spray at the lowest possible. This will help keep it from cratering when shooting unreduced epoxy. Adjust it like I described above.
That makes so much sense, I actually just epoxied some small seat brackets that you see when you open the door and had to sand out craters haha. I'm about to re epoxy them and ill make these adjustments. Thanks again Chris!
 
dhutton I actually have the aca 510 and yellow pad and i need some more time with it to figure it out. It has the tendence to dry out on me. what rpm do you use with that? I'm kind of thinking maybe I'm using to much product. I've been using wizard with regular wool pad for 13 years but they are spendy and when I have got the aca to work it really works. Thank you so much for help
I usually start at the slowest speed on my rotary and then bump it up a notch or two after a bit. Sorry I don’t know the speeds offhand. It still cuts when it dries out.
 
I usually start at the slowest speed on my rotary and then bump it up a notch or two after a bit. Sorry I don’t know the speeds offhand. It still cuts when it dries out.
no worries, I'll give it another shot on this hood and see how it does. I appreciate all the advise dhutton01 thank you very much
 
A little update on the hood project, I wet sanded with 800 by hand and went over the entire hood with grey scotch brite with dawn. re cleared with 3 coats of euro 4;1;1, sata 5000 rp 1.4 fluid turned out 1.75 and about 28 psi. I had a little more orange peel that usual when re clearing. I set the hood in the sun for about 10 hrs on a 90 degree day. It cut so much better than the first round of clear. I think with the rp 1.4 full fluid even though I do move fast was just way to heavy and it kept it soft. No urethane wave this round so I just cut with sunmight 1000 finishing film, for some reason still had more pigtails than I would like with sunmight 1500 so I switched to 3m purple finishing film and that worked a lot better. Then to bufflex 2500 damp and finished with sunmight foam 3000. Buffed with 3D ACA 510 and the yellow pad. I found that 2000-2200 rpm is my sweet spot for that combo and it cuts absolutely amazing. I have a flex pxe 80 mini polisher with a 2in wool pad and a rotary attachment for the edges and a fine body line in the center of the hood. Thank you everyone for the amazing help. I cant begin to tell everyone how grateful I am to have found this forum and all you so willing to share your skills and knowledge. I hope I can get to the point of helping others on here the way you all help me. Have a great day and keep kickin butt.
 
Back
Top