1969 Plymouth Barracuda Restoration Thread

I agree with Mike. Actually I use my good gun with a 2.5mm tip and the ready to spray Weldwood Landau Top glue. It actually cleans up as easy as epoxy with acetone. Oh I threw the HF gun away BEFORE I was done spraying the glue and started using my regular gun.
 
Sprayed sealer and finished coat of paint on the brake/shear/roller tonight. I'll give it two days dry time and reassemble on Monday.

Sanded the old paint with 180 grit and ground down some casting flash. Ready for SPI epoxy.
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SPI epoxy primed
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Sprayed High Build primer, sanded and prepped for sealer
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2k Sealer sprayed
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To be continued next reply......
 
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metalman said:
Let me know how that hardener works. I think that Rust oleum is slow to harden by itself.
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You are absolutely correct about being slow to dry straight from the can with no added chemicals. Miss your re-coat window and it could be a week before re-coating. There is also the dreaded "wrinkles" that can happen from re-coating before it has dried when spraying an oil based enamel.

This is what I can tell you up to this point in time. The product has four claims.
1. Increases Gloss
2. Increases Hardness
3. Reduces Dry Time.
4. Compatible to use with oil based enamel paints,

The pictures above where taken 1 hour after spraying. The product was dry to the touch. I was able to re-coat after 1 hour with no wrinkling. I was a bit disappointed with the gloss level when taking the pictures, however, after four hours dry time the paint self leveled and produced a much deeper gloss. As far as Hardness, that's still to be seen.

I thought about adding a couple drops of "Japan Drier" into the paint but decided against it for two reasons.
1. Didn't want to make the paint so hard after curing it became prone to chipping due to having zero flexibility.

2. The color of the Japan Drier is a darkish Bourbon color. I didn't want it to change the color of the White enamel paint.

I give this product Five Stars as to what it says it does up to this point. Product was purchased from Tractor Supply.

IMG_20240413_125808_279.jpg
 
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I haven't heard the term "Japan driers" in years. LOL. The Rustoleum aerosols are the same with recoat time. They are not kidding "second coat within 1 hour or after 48 hours". It can still raise up (wrinkle) at the 2 day mark, probably because there is more solvent in the aerosol.
 
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MJM said:
Now I'm wondering if I should paint the Barracuda with Rust-Oleum? They do make a Gloss Black.

Is it worth the endorsement money....... decisions decisions.
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Don't laugh too much folks. There's a guy with a black El Camino with Rustoleum under 2K clear. It looks terrific and the paint job is about 20 years old. It must be enamel, not lacquer spray bombs.
 
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I have a friend who painted his blazer with rustoleum in black, came out well. Been using rustoleum satin black on many projects and parts for years on the undercarriage and under hood parts. I put a splash of enamel hardener and reduce with acetone. Dry to the touch next day.
 
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123pugsy said:
Don't laugh too much folks. There's a guy with a black El Camino with Rustoleum under 2K clear. It looks terrific and the paint job is about 20 years old. It must be enamel, not lacquer spray bombs.
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There are a few guys on Youtube who paint cars with Rustoleum. It's been said that to make the Rustoleum last, it must be sprayed with a clear coat, otherwise over time the Rustoleum will chalk out from UV rays. I think those guys just enjoy spray painting and they found a way to do it for under $100 dollars. To each their own, I won't bash them but, I won't be spraying a vehicle using Rustoleum.

I have seen guys on Youtube like "My Friend Pete" He uses Rustoleum and endorses it for under chassis and engine compartment parts.

I've had a few responses about using Rustoleum to spray the Barracuda such as..........

Spray the Barracuda with Rustoleum and I'll come down there and kick your a$$.

Use Rustoleum to spray the Barracuda and I'll have you banned you from SPI.

This is my favorite one, Go for it !!!
 
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Get you banned, eh? Ha....

Myself, I would never use it, I only like to see the facts spread rather than BS. It may or may not work, or last every time, to each their own. Why do guys get so upset? If it works, it works.

I spray painted my whole pick up truck with spray bombs, no clear coat. It looked great until it started wrinkling like the salt flats. This was when I just finished being a drunk and had nothing to work with or a place to do it. I probably sprayed it outside, can't remember.
 
MJM said:
You are absolutely correct about being slow to dry straight from the can with no added chemicals. Miss your re-coat window and it could be a week before re-coating. There is also the dreaded "wrinkles" that can happen from re-coating before it has dried when spraying an oil based enamel.

This is what I can tell you up to this point in time. The product has four claims.
1. Increases Gloss
2. Increases Hardness
3. Reduces Dry Time.
4. Compatible to use with oil based enamel paints,

The pictures above where taken 1 hour after spraying. The product was dry to the touch. I was able to re-coat after 1 hour with no wrinkling. I was a bit disappointed with the gloss level when taking the pictures, however, after four hours dry time the paint self leveled and produced a much deeper gloss. As far as Hardness, that's still to be seen.

I thought about adding a couple drops of "Japan Drier" into the paint but decided against it for two reasons.
1. Didn't want to make the paint so hard after curing it became prone to chipping due to having zero flexibility.

2. The color of the Japan Drier is a darkish Bourbon color. I didn't want it to change the color of the White enamel paint.

I give this product Five Stars as to what it says it does up to this point. Product was purchased from Tractor Supply.

View attachment 30695
Click to expand...
I've done something similar and used a catalyst hardener in Rustoleum but used 8 parts paint to 1 part hardener and cut it with xylene to about 21 seconds in a Ford # 4 cup. It will give you some better weathering, abrasion resistance, and gloss retention for outside exposure and film hardness for metal patio furniture, mail boxes, burn barrel covers, utility trailers and the like for a while. For machine parts that don't have a good edge radius, chipping can be bad with impacts if you use it on moving equipment. I thought it worked fine and easier for areas I want to wipe down more frequently to keep clean from grease and oils and pollens, algae and dirt. I used up all the oil based enamels I collected over the last couple of decades and mixed them together for that "custom color"--mid gray in my case.
 
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Anymore, I don't know what anyone would concern themselves with what products they put on their own car. The cost of materials these days is absolutely retarded so if someone can use something like Rustoleum and get results that make themselves happy then BRAVO!!!

Not that you would actually do this, but I see some youtube content that is "spray can paint job" and to be honest, for what it is, it doesn't look half bad. Then you go to the comment section and my god.......my question is, why does anyone actually give a shit.
 
D.A.T. said:
I've done something similar and used a catalyst hardener in Rustoleum but used 8 parts paint to 1 part hardener and cut it with xylene to about 21 seconds in a Ford # 4 cup. It will give you some better weathering, abrasion resistance, and gloss retention for outside exposure and film hardness for metal patio furniture, mail boxes, burn barrel covers, utility trailers and the like for a while. For machine parts that don't have a good edge radius, chipping can be bad with impacts if you use it on moving equipment. I thought it worked fine and easier for areas I want to wipe down more frequently to keep clean from grease and oils and pollens, algae and dirt. I used up all the oil based enamels I collected over the last couple of decades and mixed them together for that "custom color"--mid gray in my case.
Click to expand...
That sounds like a pretty good formula for exterior use. I feel a bit better using Rust-Oleun now that I've read you use it for varies projects.
 
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OJ86 said:
Anymore, I don't know what anyone would concern themselves with what products they put on their own car. The cost of materials these days is absolutely retarded so if someone can use something like Rustoleum and get results that make themselves happy then BRAVO!!!

Not that you would actually do this, but I see some youtube content that is "spray can paint job" and to be honest, for what it is, it doesn't look half bad. Then you go to the comment section and my god.......my question is, why does anyone actually give a shit.
Click to expand...

My father pounded it in my head at a young age to keep my opinions about others to myself, until they give me no choice but to voice my opinion.

I've decided to paint the Barracuda with "Testers" model car paint. I just order fifty thousand little bottles in Gloss Black.

Eat your heart out, haters !!!
 
Okay so the 3 in 1 machine has been reassembled and adjusted. It's time use it for my next fabrication.

This one part pictured below is located on each side of the interior rear seating area. It's a stainless steel trim piece that outlines a wheel-well panel. The original interior panel had to be ditched when the car was mini tubbed. The original fabricator did fabricate something that resembled what was original in the car, but not quite. The execution of the wheel well panels lacked symmetry and that stainless steel trim.

Here's the original stainless steel trim.
IMG_20240427_144446_317.jpg


Here is the existing welded in place inner structure for the wheel-well panel.
IMG_20240316_151343_620.jpg


Here is the existing wheel-well panel that was completely welded in place. No removing that panel for upholstery, and the panel lacked symmetry in relation to the roll bar.
IMG_20240302_153801_166.jpg


I marked the top of the existing panel with a white line to show an "even / parallel line" between the roll bar and wheel-well panel. That's the symmetry that was missing, imho. Also if you look closely to the top of the wheel-well panel, this is where the stainless steel trim was originally installed at the factory.
IMG_20240312_172607_603.jpg





Continued on next reply for my solution.......stay tuned
 
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First order of business was to find a way to reproduce the radius of the stainless steel trim piece so I could fabricate a new inner structure for the wheel-well panel.

Here was my first attempt by notching the square tube. Yeah it would work but that's going to be a lot of welding and grinding. Square tube clamped to stainless steel trim.
IMG_20240427_144325_791.jpg


My next attempt would require a fabricated die to bend and shape the square tube. Metal cut and prepped for welding.
IMG_20240320_144228_772.jpg


Tac welded together.
IMG_20240320_202250_122.jpg


Fully welded
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This worked well and will be used to bend the radius for the new inner structure.
IMG_20240427_141657_299.jpg

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Testing fit to original stainless steel trim.
IMG_20240427_143859_336.jpg

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Here's the new inner structure clamped to the old inner structure.
IMG_20240427_143140_167.jpg


Now that I have this part figured out, I can now make the two required inner structures. After that is complete I'll fabricate the outer panels.
 
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