Schroeder
Promoted Users
Ultra sands easier than the gold imho.
Don
Wayyyyy better!
Does easier sanding mean it isn't as durable?
Ultra sands easier than the gold imho.
Don
Wayyyyy better!
Not in my experience.Does easier sanding mean it isn't as durable?
Alright. Ultra it is! Thanks guys.Not in my experience.
Don
Thanks. My "pinhole" inspection has always focused on holes that go all the through a panel (light or liquid will pass through). From now on I'll be more focused on these pin "craters" too. I will definitely fill them with epoxy from a tooth pick or baby medicine syringe.Typically I will dot (hand touch-up) the holes with epoxy until they fill. That seals them against moisture penetration. I guess the perfect way would be never to have primed that, and to have welded 100% of the pinholes shut, but in my experience, we live in an imperfect world. If you use epoxy to seal those holes before continuing, you'll be ahead of 99.9% of other shops.
Yeah, because even if they don't go all the way through, they probably connect to a small cavity where corrosion can begin. Covering that with porous filler can start a long-term corrosion problem in motion. Sealing it with epoxy turns it into a little time capsule, sealed off from the elements and the moisture wicking that scratched or chipped filler can bring.Thanks. My "pinhole" inspection has always focused on holes that go all the through a panel (light or liquid will pass through). From now on I'll be more focused on these pin "craters" too. I will definitely fill them with epoxy from a tooth pick or baby medicine syringe.
Thanks for the great explanation. While looking back through this post I saw another member mentioned filling in pinholes "from porosity.". Surely this is what he meant. I was only thinking about the holes that all went all the way through. Now I know!Yeah, because even if they don't go all the way through, they probably connect to a small cavity where corrosion can begin. Covering that with porous filler can start a long-term corrosion problem in motion. Sealing it with epoxy turns it into a little time capsule, sealed off from the elements and the moisture wicking that scratched or chipped filler can bring.
I'm not set on it or anything I just kinda thought it's the way to do it based off what a personal friend has told who has done a lot of restorations and from internet searching. I know that's NOT exactly what's been said in this particular thread, but the majority of the ones I've found specified this method. I can be convinced otherwise. It's be nice to have to deal with one less product.I don’t understand why you are so set on using Duraglass. I don’t see anything in those pics that would warrant its use. It’s really not necessary imho.
FWIW an air file would do a nice quick job of cleaning up the welds in that first pic above imho. Would likely need less filler. Just don’t get too carried away and go too deep and reduce the thickness of the original metal.
Don
Thanks for the reply 1A. Are you saying just bite the bullet, grind, weld, grind down flush, repaint, and move forward with the knowledge to be more vigilant with these craters? I certainly could. It's not like I won't be mixing up any more epoxy soon.Solid metal is the best thing for the durability of your project. What you are showing is not horrible, believe me lots of "professionals" can"t or wont take the time to do better. Try and treat every weld as if it is the only spot you have to fix, grind, sand inspect it like it was never going to be covered up with paint and primer. Believe me I understand the desire to get some primer on there and move on, but just a little more of what you have already done would take pinholes and voids out of the picture.
These alright?There is thread somewhere with Barry warning against the use of microfiber towels. Some have a product that causes issues with paint. Use proper tack cloths.
Don
thanks. someone mentioned a specific tork part # barry uses, but then no one commented on this to confirm or deny. There was a lot of talk about the "blue tork towels" in the thread you listed. Is that these?Lot of great info here:
The proper way to wipe down a vehicle prior to paint
I've written this a while ago but never posted it. Maybe this will help some folks and help to clear up any confusion someone may have over how to wipe something down. The proper way to wipe down a vehicle prior to paint. First before the wipe down stage you want to have as clean a vehicle as...www.spiuserforum.com
No. We had those at the Shop I worked at last. They were used for drying our hands. They are not a wiper. They are 4ply rough paper towels. The Barry's recommendation in the first link you posted will work well.thanks. someone mentioned a specific tork part # barry uses, but then no one commented on this to confirm or deny. There was a lot of talk about the "blue tork towels" in the thread you listed. Is that these?