MP&C
Member
Should I tell Robert a guy on the FactBook (or is it FaceBook) could not understand why I would cut it there and should have cut it down further on the flat spot.
Response is up, let’s see if he’s open to using less filler.
Should I tell Robert a guy on the FactBook (or is it FaceBook) could not understand why I would cut it there and should have cut it down further on the flat spot.
Looks good but I am surprised you went up as high as you did. A little lower and the bodywork would've been much easier where it's flat. Gonna be fun working that rounded curve.
Joel this is the correct spot. The metal will want shrink the opposite direction on the curve so it should not warp anywhere near as bad as on the flat area.
Jim I've hung about 24 pairs of quarters on mopars and that makes absolutely no sense.
Joel I’m learning from someone that if he did this when he got done the area would not need any filler. I am just following his direction and it has made a huge difference in my work.
Jim Right on, a lot of guys doing things differently and getting good results. Best of luck to you on your project
Joel , let’s talk bodywork vs metalshaping. Metalshaping has more emphasis on minimizing the use of filler, controlling weld distortion, and placing welds where body features help to promote those goals.
Hands down, a flat or low crown area such as the horizontal centerline of that panel will offer the least resistance to weld distortion so it will show the most distortion over any other area. A high crown area will still show distortion, but the shape of the metal HELPS to control or limit said distortion.
When locating butt welds for panels such as these, I look first and foremost for an area that has rear access for planishing (hammer and dolly stretching) of the weld as the distortion is caused by shrinking. No shrinking disc, torch, or any other shrinking method will fix a shrink. We need to STRETCH the weld to remove distortion caused by shrinking. Fix the cause, not the effect. Next, steer clear of flat areas. Not enough structural support there to resist weld distortion. A high crown area or body line crease is ideal to help control these issues, as long as you’re not so close that you can’t fit a dolly in there for planishing. I worry less about “using the least amount of a patch panel as possible” as you hear from so many, and more about weld access for planishing, weld access for grinding/dressing the weld, and location in high crown or crease areas to control distortion. Lastly, since all welds shrink, an arc or body crown that typically faces outward will pull into a valley. The concave feature where Jim has located the weld will have a tendency to pull outward in the vertical direction, and inward along the horizontal direction, so in effect they will somewhat negate each other. It will still require planishing to normalize the stresses and correct any defects, but for the most part this will require hammering from the outside. A seam centered along the horizontal centerline would need to be bumped from the inside, which is typically a more difficult or less effective process. I hope this all makes sense, and everyone can see that this should limit distortion and the need for filler. This approach is the metalshaping approach.
I would imagine the center area is better suited for filler work in blending the repair, but not so much for controlling the weld distortion.
Mopar A-body projects.
My input:
That's a lot of work for a Saturday, but sure is coming out nice!
You've been a busy guy this weekend. Outstanding job Jim. Once again I'm learning so much from your threads. MP&C provided some valuable information from your facebook encounter. I've saved that information for later use.
I'm wonder if "Joel" is, or once was a die hard mopar guy. I remember a Joel from Moparts who did some really nice paint jobs.
Joel was not in for an argument, he just liked what Robert said. Robert has found a new friend wanting to know how to shrink a dent on his Mopar....
Get well soon, Jim. I bet that K-member has never been off that car once it rolled out of the factory. Trans cross member looks to be in good shape. What small block is in the car now, 273 or 318?