2k keeps dry spraying

A

adrynalinjunkie

I am shooting 2K out of a Sharpe razor primer gun with a 1.7 tip.

Shoots great but it tends to dry spray it feels ruff. I actually walk over to the fender just 3 minutes after shooting it and dust off all the powdery dryed 2k off the top with a red scotch pad before I shoot another coat.

Shop temp is 72

Should I be reducing it a little or do I need a bigger tip?

I never mix more than 16 oz of 2k and 4 oz of hardner at once to avoid blowing the pot time.


It does shoot allot nicer when I add %25 spi med reducer ie... 4:1:1

However it is easier to run when it is reduced of coarse and I feel like I am using a crutch when I reduce it.
 
Tip size seems good, a couple of ideas.

Make sure peep hole is not plugged in top lid of cup.
Make sure there is no strainer inside gun.
Lower air pressure?
Narrow fan to say 50%.
If it sprays good for a panel then starts dry spraying, that is peep hole or a blockage in side the fluid tip, as primer will expand that blockage real fast, even if size of pinhead.

If none of above tray just 2-4oz of reducer for a mixed quart to avoid the runs.
 
Ya I have had the vent hole in the cup lid clog and screw me before, I always clean it out and ream it when I clean the gun.

I do run the fan wide open. I will try dialing it down tonight.

50% would be half way between open and closed with the fan knob?
 
I would assume 50% of the fan pattern, which in my mind would put twice as much material in a given area, making it wetter. Might be 27% adjustment knob change or 78% or who knows. Time to shoot some more test paper. I go through lots of test paper adjusting my gun trying to find the sweet spot that works for me.lol.
 
I repainted the walls of my shop this fall. So I'm still getting used to using test papers. Lol It does look a lot more professional now that I don't use the wall anymore as a test canvass.
 
This just happened to me tonight! First coat went on just fine. Second coat sprayed dry and rough. I am using a DVBis w1.4. What should I be checking and when this happens when spraying, what do you do? Stop and clean gun then go back to spraying? Go easy as I know little to knotting about painting and guns. It's frustrating bc I get better results using a rattle can!
 
A 1.4 is really too small for 2 k. Don't makes more than 16 ounces up at a time. It was probably starting to cure on you that's why it was dry spraying the second coat.
 
with a gravity gun you need to rinse before every fill. solids collect in the head and will cut off flow. i use a small squirt bottle to rinse with .
 
merbesfield;19909 said:
This just happened to me tonight! First coat went on just fine. Second coat sprayed dry and rough. I am using a DVBis w1.4. What should I be checking and when this happens when spraying, what do you do? Stop and clean gun then go back to spraying? Go easy as I know little to knotting about painting and guns. It's frustrating bc I get better results using a rattle can!
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You have to have the correct tip size for the product you are spraying. Read your product tech sheet and it will give you the tip size recommendations. Build primer is by design thicker and a 1.8 tip is usually the minimum size and bigger won't hurt.
Also, if you think about how a rattle can sprays a fine mist it will help you dial your spray gun in when you are getting ready to spray color and clear.
 
a 1.4 or1.7 will shoot anything made. first coat good tells the story . you left primer in the gun when you mixed the next batch and the solids collected in the bottom. dont carer if it is a 2.2 like i shoot with gravity guns suck sometimes. i hate them for metallics. my next gun will be a siphon gun . rinse after each cup.
 
So how do I rinse? Pour in some lacquer and blow it through? I guess I should also mix more product each time so I am stopping less often, but I am new at this and don't want to mix too much and then have to toss it.
 
merbesfield;19929 said:
So how do I rinse? Pour in some lacquer and blow it through? I guess I should also mix more product each time so I am stopping less often, but I am new at this and don't want to mix too much and then have to toss it.
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Use some of the same reducer you are using in the product you are spraying.
I use a wash bottle, works great.
PPSWashBottle_LG.jpg
 
i buy those by the case larry. i keep airbrush colors in them. i use a large one with reducer in it. you can rinse the cut a little then stick the bottle in the bottom and rinse the head out.
 
Senile Old Fart;19944 said:
Use some of the same reducer you are using in the product you are spraying.
I use a wash bottle, works great.
PPSWashBottle_LG.jpg
Click to expand...

Guys, remember you are dealing w a Newbie here. My reducer came to me with the exact amount to mix with one quart of Chasis black. I have some left over reducer from other brands/mixes does it matter? I think it is reducer? It is the thinner product that gets blended with paint? Is reducer the stuff that has different speeds for different temperatures and environmental conditions? Where do I get those bottles for the reducer?
 
shine;19950 said:
i buy those by the case larry. i keep airbrush colors in them. i use a large one with reducer in it. you can rinse the cut a little then stick the bottle in the bottom and rinse the head out.
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I knew it wouldnt be a new trick for you!
 
merbesfield;19953 said:
Guys, remember you are dealing w a Newbie here. My reducer came to me with the exact amount to mix with one quart of Chasis black. I have some left over reducer from other brands/mixes does it matter? I think it is reducer? It is the thinner product that gets blended with paint? Is reducer the stuff that has different speeds for different temperatures and environmental conditions? Where do I get those bottles for the reducer?
Click to expand...

I have no idea what you have for chassis black and what it requires for reducer. Is it urethane or some POR15 type stuff? If it is urethane then use a urethane reducer. Order a gallon of medium from Barry :)
The bottle, you can buy them at the paint supply house, about $3
 
I see it says urethane activator on the one can, which would leave me to believe it is a urethane based material and urethane reducer would work just fine. Give Barry a call just to make sure.
 
I still need some help with this. What would I use as a thinner? The 2K is still shooting dry on the second coat. How do you guys use this type of paint? Do you have to clean the gun after every shoot? If so it seems like it will take a long time to spray paint. How do you shoot a whole car without the paint setting up? I have to be missing something. The first pot shoots nicely and from there it looks like crap. I guess I should call Eastwood and ask them? Does anyone know if SPI sells anything that works for general satin chassis black. I realize I have asked a bunch of questions, sorry. Thanks for the help, Mark
 
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