2nd Round of 2K

C

cstrom72

I sprayed 3 coats of regular build 2k over the shell of the car minus the jambs. I spent the last two days blocking it down to 400 grit. I came down to bare metal of course in a few spots and have one low spot on the roof that will take a small amount of glaze putty to fix. Its hard for me to tell if I should do a second round of 2k. Not that the pics will really do any justice but every panel feels really smooth to me. How does a guy justify to do a second or even a third round? Thanks
 
I honestly don't know how to explain the decision making process, but with all the sand-throughs you have there, another round of 2K would seem to make perfect sense.
 
I plan on at least two rounds of 2k but I block the first round with a coarse grit to get everything straight with as little effort as possible.
The second round is when I try to work to the finer grits using guide coat.
 
I started at 320 on all the long flat areas. Then switched to 400 for a final sweep and on all the curvy areas where I knew it would sand down fast. I ordered a set of the adjustable sanding blocks. I have a set of Durablocks which worked well for the Bronco I did (pretty flat and square) but the Mustang has some more curves that they just didn't seem to work on. Would you recommend starting with 320 again or should I start with 400 and finish with 500 or 600. I am going to shoot the car 2008 Torch red which is a non metallic color off of a Shelby.
 
crashtech;n76673 said:
I honestly don't know how to explain the decision making process, but with all the sand-throughs you have there, another round of 2K would seem to make perfect sense.
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Crashtech has identified the problem with advising how to proceed. YOU have to decide what "level" of paint job you want when finished.
A laser straight car with a mirror finish will take more time, materials and work than a daily driver or a 20 footer.

I would shoot 3 more coats of 2k and let it set for a day or two. Then guide coat and block sand with 150 - 180 grit to remove the guide coat. The coarse grits are what get the panels flat and straight. Using too fine of a grit just kinda floats over the top and follows the surface contours. Another thing to be mindful of is pressing too hard on the sanding block and flexing the panel. Change your paper as soon as it quits cutting to avoid pushing harder.
For rounded or concave areas I like to use a round or teardrop shaped sanding block and always approach at an angle. If all the guide coat comes off and you have no sand throughs then move to your finer grits. Guide coat is your friend when you want it right.
 
Spent tonight taping it back off for 3 more coats :) I'll take your advice and start with 180. Thanks guys
 
Got a second round of 2K primer blocked with 150, 320 and finally 400 and I have all the Jambs scuffed down with maroon Scotchbrite. I finally have the shell ready to put in the booth for final sealer. Quick question-
I have a a few small spots that are down to bare metal again, Before sealer should I get out the touch up gun and blend in some un reduced epoxy or just rely on the sealer to be the final coat?

OR i was thinking I may use the touch up gun to hit the bare metal spots before it goes in the booth, then lightly block with 400 or even just a maroon Scotchbrite pad then thoroughly wash the vehicle with soap and water before the booth for sealer.

I dont really want to wash the bare metal spots with water, It just scares me and id rather avoid it.
 
I would make sure all metal is primed before you proceed to paint. My experience on higher end quality job such as yours, you've already got tons of hours in it. No sense in cheering out now.
Also on some occasions that I left a small bear metal spot, or filler area showing through it would have a different appearance or ring around the spot, depending on color/metalic. To me that's a redo...don't want that..

I also seal before paint, epoxy. It just makes a better job, helps color be more consistent.
Just my 2cents
 
cstrom72;n77117 said:
Got a second round of 2K primer blocked with 150, 320 and finally 400 and I have all the Jambs scuffed down with maroon Scotchbrite. I finally have the shell ready to put in the booth for final sealer. Quick question-
I have a a few small spots that are down to bare metal again, Before sealer should I get out the touch up gun and blend in some un reduced epoxy or just rely on the sealer to be the final coat?

OR i was thinking I may use the touch up gun to hit the bare metal spots before it goes in the booth, then lightly block with 400 or even just a maroon Scotchbrite pad then thoroughly wash the vehicle with soap and water before the booth for sealer.

I dont really want to wash the bare metal spots with water, It just scares me and id rather avoid it.
Click to expand...

If you are using reduced epoxy for your sealer and the spots are smaller than a dime you should be fine. Check the areas after you shoot the epoxy sealer.
 
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