I painted a Ford ranger truck for a guy 3 years ago, the hood is peeling very bad. The hood is fiberglass, I used spi regular build primer after sanding the existing factory clear. I did cut down to the factory primer in several places to address chips, after blocking the 2k I cleaned and sprayed black nason base coat which is still adhering fine, I sprayed 3 coats of euro 5000 and cut and buffed. I think I know the problem but want to get you guys opinion.
5000 euro clear
- Thread starter JC Daniel
- Start date
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
If the clear is peeling and you cut and buffed, my first thought is that there was not enough clear left after cutting and buffing.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Whenever going over an existing paint job, especially if I sand through the clear, I start with epoxy. It seals the surface and gives me a chance to see if there will be any issues I need to take care of before proceeding to 2K primer.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
How long did you wait between coats and before clearing?
If there was no bare glass/smc then using 2k urethane is fine.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
@JC Daniel , how do you mix your Euro, typically?
metalman
Oldtimer
Cleared too soon after base?
Too thin after cut and buff? I would think 3 coats would be enough unless cut and buffed too far or if the clear was reduced too much?
Curious to know what happened, I never had that problem with any of the SPI clears except for one time I flattened Euro and put it over a $hit base coat on a high end mailbox. Don't remember how many coats of clear but definitely at least 2. It didn't really peel but it kind of died after 5 years near the salt water. My usual Ero reduction is 4:1:1.5
Too thin after cut and buff? I would think 3 coats would be enough unless cut and buffed too far or if the clear was reduced too much?
Curious to know what happened, I never had that problem with any of the SPI clears except for one time I flattened Euro and put it over a $hit base coat on a high end mailbox. Don't remember how many coats of clear but definitely at least 2. It didn't really peel but it kind of died after 5 years near the salt water. My usual Ero reduction is 4:1:1.5
I wait about 15 minutes between coats of base and about 45 minutes to clear after base, I reduce euro 4-1-1 as I have used this clear for the past 5 years this way, I wait 30 minutes between clear coats. I use 885 to reduce also. The owner has waxed the truck but I am not sure what he used. I am going to redo the hood this fall and am kinda shaky about my procedure, I have never had a problem on any other job I have done so this is one I need to get right.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
Read the TDS...
They have IF and IR, I have only used IF.
Great answers.
Here is what we know for a fact.
It is solvent related.
My guess is the owner waxed it with a non-carnuba wax, and the solvent left in the base and clear could not get out
Think about this, the solvent in the sun will expand and contract at a different rate and eventually break adhesion.
The 5000 mixed like you did even one wet cost, and 1500 and buff; you should have proper mils to last.
This is why every shop should have a not to do sheet to give to the owner to protect the shop and the customer.
Here is what we know for a fact.
It is solvent related.
My guess is the owner waxed it with a non-carnuba wax, and the solvent left in the base and clear could not get out
Think about this, the solvent in the sun will expand and contract at a different rate and eventually break adhesion.
The 5000 mixed like you did even one wet cost, and 1500 and buff; you should have proper mils to last.
This is why every shop should have a not to do sheet to give to the owner to protect the shop and the customer.
I read the tds and I think the activator being left out added to the problem, I did read here on the forum that some guys use activator in all base coats. I have used spi 5000 euro activator in all nason base since then, I know the owners son waxes the truck a lot but I am not sure what he uses. I always tell everyone that the vehicle can not be waxed for 6 months, most all say that they never wax anyway. I appreciate each and every one of you guys taking time to help me out, I have learned so much here and look forward to being a better painter each job I do.
Because of the way its made, the designers
Know the issues that come with playing games with the grade of resins to save money.