cheater valves and regulators

[ERV JR]

Hi all new here.
I have regulators on most my guns, bought a new tekna prolite and have been using it with the cheater valve. I know I need to do something else. At work the cut in on the comp is 115 and cut out 165. I was planning on regulating the pressure @ the wall to 125psi. and keeping the cheater valve. Now the problem comes I have my own shop and my cut in is 90 & cut out is 150. so with the cheater valve u see swings between cut in and out. After reading hear using the wall regulator is a bad idea. Also that I should use HV quick connect fittings ,I have always used normal automotive fittings and 1/4 npt regulators at my guns.

What kind of regulators do u rec that will support the cfm demands for gun mounted units and will I see a huge diff if I set up atleast 1 air fitting with HV ? Now thinking that my 50ft hose isn't good also but at work I have used 100 ft at times to work around some of th etrucks/equipment. @ my own shop I use a 25ft 3/8 hose. wall lines are 1/2, comp is a 5hp 3 phase ir w/60 gal tank and am adding a 30gal mounted above it next week. plan is to just T in the second tank for volume but still feed off the 3/4 npt line out the comp tank. @ work I have a huge screw unit w/500 gal tank 1 1/2 copper. I am more concerned about my own shop setup and quality of the hot rods and bikes that the highway/road stripeing equipment @ work.
So please give me your thoughts thanks

 

[Barry]

I have some Iwata, Geo and Sata gun regulators and they cost big bucks but what I have found is they are no better then the Motor-Guard diaphragm regulator that runs a 1/3 of the price $22-25.
Most paint stores have these.

You might look at adjusting the compressor so it kicks on at 125 and then off at 165, that would be the most perfect deal and then the wall regulator would hold at 140 with that volume pretty easy.

 

[ERV JR]

I have diaphragm on most my guns and plan to change the tekna over. On my primer guns and detail guns I have the needle valve air adjusters. If I can change the cut in to 125 I would regulate it to 115psi so there is never a swing from cut in and cut out , then even with an adjusting valve pressure stays the same.
btw I bought a speedaire regulator a few months back and it would howl as soon as I pulled the trigger, so I tossed it
So do I need HV fittings ? I think I have a few from a shop I used to work at but think they are all male Npt. and think I will keep my 3/8 hose.

 

[crashtech]

I'm not schooled enough on air to help much, but I know the cut-in and cut-out on my compressor are 30 PSI apart, which, with 140 gallons of air storage, strikes a good balance between excessive cycling and excessive pressure swing. My whole shop is regulated at 125 psi, which is lower than most places I have worked, but is still well in excess of most air tool specs. I like having the whole shop regulated, since there is no need then to continually adjust things that have "cheater valves," not just spray guns but sanders, too.