clear coat selections

danp76

danp76

Oldtimer
I don't hear much talk on the 2100 series clear coat. I thought all the clears were the same once they are dry and the solvents are gone...If this is true, why not save a bit of money and use the 2100 series clear or one of the the 2020 euro clears, rather then the more costly universal and ms? I understand that the ms and universal will remain easier to buff, however if you're going to doulbe clear why not complete the first session with a less costly clear coat? If you are going to cap it anyway, why spend the extra on ms or universal on the first session? If every other manufacturer makes clear that "hardens up" and many are used to using those types, why not just use the 2100 series clear which has the best price or the 2020 euro in either configuration? Thanks for the help, Dan.
 
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good question....i would like to know whats different also, if its answerable
 
Many times i will use euro on my jobs until the last session then i will switch to universal. I dont really do it because of cost. The euro is harder so when i have a job with 12 coats it doesnt leave me with a thick soft clear film. Keeps the clear from squishing from under screw head, etc.
 
Good idea jim, I was just thinking about this the other day as I was sanding my ram, was thinking it would have almost been easier to spray the euro, sand with course paper and flow with universal or ms.
 
If you are going to buff right away, why not just use euro 2020 or 2100 series clear? I don't hear much talk on the 2100 series clear, and it's the most affordable clear choice. If they all are polys, and the dried finish is the same and if you're going to polish right away or double clear, why not save some money?
 
I like how the universal buffs later, I feel that clear always stays buffable. Not sure how the euro does years later, I haven't had the chance to try. also feel the universal should be a little more chip resistant.
 
Dan, I had the chance to spray about 2/3 of a gallon of the 2100 about a week ago during Biketoberfest. The 2100 clear sprays very well and is relatively hard to run. If I were painting regularly again this is how I would choose my clear:
2100 for cut-ins, spot, panel work, lower budget overalls.
Euro 2020 for all production work and higher end overalls that need higher scratch resistance.
Universal for restoration or extreme duty (marine, aviation) or when long term buffability is needed.
I do like Jim's technique of using Euro for first stage then flow coating with Universal. Makes good sense IMO
 
Rodman, why would you use 2100 for lower budget projects?...It's a poly clear and when dry isn't it just as durable as all the other choices? If you are doing a restoration and you're gong to buff right away, why not use 2100 or euro clear? Especially if you're restoring and selling the car and you don't have to be buffing it down the road. Seems like a great way to save money by using 2100 or euro clear...what am I missing here?
 
I think ur idea is fine Dan. I would use the euro on a marine before i would universal or ms anyday since its harder. Soft clear and a watercraft dont mix imo. Personally ive started using 2.1 Euro on
 
everything in the last year. That clear is bad ass in my opinion. I still love the Universal, however on dark colors, bikes etc I just love the Euro!!
 
I cannot remember Barry ever recommending the Euro or 2100 for resto or marine use. I would guess that part of the reason is the multiple iso's in the Universal giving it an edge in durability and chip resistance. There may be other additives that he uses in the Universal that he doesn't in the production clears. Maybe Barry can explain it better.
 
2100 HS is only more economical in areas with strict VOC laws.

Otherwise, the Euro 3.5 (#5000) is the more economical choice, due to the fact that it must be reduced at least 20%
 
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