Correct prep before SPI epoxy primer

S

scosmith

I have some panels that were stripped bare using a DA but have sat around a while without protection so some surface rust has started to form. I want to re-prep these panels and shoot SPI epoxy them. I assume that I need to go over them again with a DA to remove as much of the rust as possible. Is there something that I can apply to these panels to help neutralize the rust prior to shooting the epoxy? If there is any pitting that the DA can't take care of do need to sand blast those areas? Any information regarding the correct preparation is appreciated---
 
Any thoughts on using vinager 4:1 and letting it sit, then scrub with lots of water with smal amount of baking soda to neutralize the vinager?
 
use the correct refinishing products . phosphoric acid at 15-35% then rinse well while still wet.
leave the kitchen products in the kitchen where they belong .

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use the correct refinishing products . phosphoric acid at 15-35% then rinse well while still wet.
leave the kitchen products in the kitchen where they belong .
 
Some of the problems of removing the Phosphoric acid may be that they are just rinsing it off. With SPI you really need to scrub it with a red scotch brite pad just before rinsing, and make sure it stays wet like Shine said. That way you don't have any residue left, just be sure to rinse your gloves off before touching the clean panel so you don't recontaminate it. You can scrub it while rinsing, but I get less flash rust by scrubbing before rinsing.
 
Good point Fred. When using phosphoric acid products if you want to keep the flash rusting to a minimum during the rinse stage have a spray bottle loaded with straight isopropyl alcohol and immediately spray the panel down as the water is running off and before you wipe. Waterborne wax and grease remover will work too but not as good as straight alky.
 
So what is the procedure for bare metal that is only lelft in a dry shop for several weeks between stripping and shooting epoxy? There is no visible rust in the bare matal, just waiting to do a little more metal work, then epxoy and do some blocking with filler.
 
Outlaw;38288 said:
So what is the procedure for bare metal that is only lelft in a dry shop for several weeks between stripping and shooting epoxy? There is no visible rust in the bare matal, just waiting to do a little more metal work, then epxoy and do some blocking with filler.
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dry shop with no signs of corrosion-if it's been sanded or blasted for good texture then just clean it and spray your epoxy.

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Outlaw;38288 said:
So what is the procedure for bare metal that is only lelft in a dry shop for several weeks between stripping and shooting epoxy? There is no visible rust in the bare matal, just waiting to do a little more metal work, then epxoy and do some blocking with filler.
Click to expand...

dry shop with no signs of corrosion-if it's been sanded or blasted for good texture then just clean it and spray your epoxy.
 
ok bob, Ill check real close before I shoot some epoxy on it. If I see anything Ill just do a little scuff off with one of them scuff pads and follow up with some 700-1?
 
Outlaw;38288 said:
So what is the procedure for bare metal that is only lelft in a dry shop for several weeks between stripping and shooting epoxy? There is no visible rust in the bare matal, just waiting to do a little more metal work, then epxoy and do some blocking with filler.
Click to expand...


Bob Hollinshead;38294 said:
dry shop with no signs of corrosion-if it's been sanded or blasted for good texture then just clean it and spray your epoxy.
Click to expand...

I ran across something that might work well for this, its called Phix Corrision Treatment. I have a trim piece that was blasted with medium crushed glass in the cabinet, then treated with with phix and epoxied (apply and let stand for 5 minutes, then just wipe the excess off and blow dry). It was sprayed on July 29, so its only been 9 days but some of those days it was out in the sun. I sanded it first, then tried the screw driver. If you hit the zoom glass twice at the bottom right, in the second photo you can see the metals inner grain structure.
http://s747.photobucket.com/user/fr...9-4661-9383-34cc54c93e1a_zps1979e07b.jpg.html

It seems to be like the Sikkens pre treatment wipes, but a lot cheaper, and reusable.
It doesn't have any acid, but does have zinc phosphate. The claim is that it removes rust, will protect bare metal, can be painted over, and will enhance adhesion. I didn't try removing rust with it.
http://www.ppcbest.com/phix_treatment.htm

Do you know anything about this Barry?

I'm not suggesting that it works, just asking for any input.
 
Outlaw;38296 said:
ok bob, Ill check real close before I shoot some epoxy on it. If I see anything Ill just do a little scuff off with one of them scuff pads and follow up with some 700-1?
Click to expand...
Yup a light rub down with a maroon scotchbrite would be a good idea.

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chevman;38304 said:
I ran across something that might work well for this, its called Phix Corrision Treatment. I have a trim piece that was blasted with medium crushed glass in the cabinet, then treated with with phix and epoxied (apply and let stand for 5 minutes, then just wipe the excess off and blow dry). It was sprayed on July 29, so its only been 9 days but some of those days it was out in the sun. I sanded it first, then tried the screw driver. If you hit the zoom glass twice at the bottom right, in the second photo you can see the metals inner grain structure.
http://s747.photobucket.com/user/fr...9-4661-9383-34cc54c93e1a_zps1979e07b.jpg.html



It seems to be like the Sikkens pre treatment wipes, but a lot cheaper, and reusable.
It doesn't have any acid, but does have zinc phosphate. The claim is that it removes rust, will protect bare metal, can be painted over, and will enhance adhesion. I didn't try removing rust with it.
http://www.ppcbest.com/phix_treatment.htm

Do you know anything about this Barry?

I'm not suggesting that it works, just asking for any input.
Click to expand...

Fred, that looks like good stuff. I might do some testing with it!

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chevman;38304 said:
I ran across something that might work well for this, its called Phix Corrision Treatment. I have a trim piece that was blasted with medium crushed glass in the cabinet, then treated with with phix and epoxied (apply and let stand for 5 minutes, then just wipe the excess off and blow dry). It was sprayed on July 29, so its only been 9 days but some of those days it was out in the sun. I sanded it first, then tried the screw driver. If you hit the zoom glass twice at the bottom right, in the second photo you can see the metals inner grain structure.
http://s747.photobucket.com/user/fr...9-4661-9383-34cc54c93e1a_zps1979e07b.jpg.html



It seems to be like the Sikkens pre treatment wipes, but a lot cheaper, and reusable.
It doesn't have any acid, but does have zinc phosphate. The claim is that it removes rust, will protect bare metal, can be painted over, and will enhance adhesion. I didn't try removing rust with it.
http://www.ppcbest.com/phix_treatment.htm

Do you know anything about this Barry?

I'm not suggesting that it works, just asking for any input.
Click to expand...

Fred, that looks like good stuff. I might do some testing with it!
 
Ill get on it........Phix Corrission Treatment and Maroon Scotch Brite on my radar now.
 
Phix is made in my home town and I have used it on a '66 mustang project with good results. Lot of body shops around here use it and love it. Just my 2 cents is all
 
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