Couple of questions

Chris_Hamilton

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
Curious what some of you other guys on here who do this for a living do in a couple of situations. First question is replicating spot welds. I don't care what anyone says a plug weld even if done perfect (plug slightly below the surface of the base metal) doesn't resemble a factory spot weld. I'm curious if anyone has any special techniques for replicating a spot weld (even if it's just cosmetic). Nothing looks worse than when you replace a panel and then grind and fill the plug welds and that area is smooth compared to the rest of the area around it. In the past I have tried a 1/4' punch with someone holding a small lead shot bag behind the flange ( worked decent sometimes but not always and still didn't completely replicate a spot weld). I've also tried using a really flat spot weld bit and just slightly cutting the plug weld to clean it up and make it more uniform. That works but takes a looooooong time. I don't have the cash for one of those hi end spot welders and I'm betting plenty of 100 point Pebble Beach style restos' have been achieved without them in the past. Thoughts?
Also how do you guys handle re-assembly on something that HAS TO BE PERFECT. Meaning I have quality tools but even my best snap on stuff will slightly mar a bolt head or nut etc. I've tried those plastic sleeved sockets and they work in certain situations but even those will crack paint on a bolt. Anyone got any tips for me on assembling something that was painted apart and not marring the paint on the bolts or do I need to mask off and repaint bolts after assembly?
 
Use a 6 point socket and take some plastic from a zip lock sandwich bag or similar or thinner plastic-breadbag...and put the plastic over the head of the bolt before the socket goes on. If you applied just a light coat of epoxy and the paint isn't built up much you'll never damage the paint doing it this way. I made a few tools for replicating spot welds out of a pair of vise grips-picture a hand punch that's adjusted so it doesn't punch a hole. I clamp it on and give it a few twists to slightly distort the panel in that area and they look decent. I cut the hardened jaws out of the vise grips and welded in some metal I shaped by hand, the punch part is a piece of drill-bit I shaped to my liking. Put the fake welds between your plug welds
 
Thanks for the tips Bob, :D funny how I never thought of plastic and a 6 point socket before. I feel a little silly for not having thought of that.
 
I think even if you had good resistance spot welding equipment some experimenting and possible modifying of the tips may be necessary to match the factory welds.
 
A guy told me once to spray a wet coat of 2k and before it flashes dab a pencil eraser in it then when dry sand lightly and re prime to make the spot weld divets. I have a spot welder so I've never tried it sounds like it would work tho
Justin
 
I guess it all depends on your level of acceptance---appearance wise, because to be technical about it, the metal around the factory spots is quite often distorted and some of the spots have some splatter around them.
 
I wish my shop owner would invest in one of those $26k Pro-Spot welders it sure would make replacing a bed side look factory not to mention faster and easier. Short of that it would be a time killer. I went to another shop who does have one (i4 Pro Spot) and seen the job done with it an man it was nice look like factory spot welds and they said it saved some mad time doing it the way I have to do, just spot weld it together and go straight to paint. But like you I can't swing $26k to use it as part of my toolbox inventory.
 
I restore some nice stuff, and have worked on Pebble Beach cars, but they were before the spot weld technology. I have never worried about this, but have considered getting a hand held spot welder. do they work, or is there a reason the welders you mention cost 20 k? Remember the old two gun spot welders? Could they replicate The Look?
 
The welder I mentioned are battery operated (rechargeble and can last all day welding) or corded and can spot weld 5 layer of metals, automaticaly adjusts for differant metal types/thicknesses, have differant heads to get into really deep and odd areas and have air powered clamping with over 90lb of force. The ones you are refering to are limited and have nowhere the capability/usability of a unit like the Pro-Spot i4/i5 but I'm sure even with their limited useability could come in handy so long as you use it on what it is designed for.
 
As to your other question with the 2 handled spotwelders? The Lenco spot welder (there are others) I would surely think they could give you the look but they are limited in how the spot weld is applied unless you could get to the backside with the other hand held lead. The guns lead cable would be the other limiting factor but I'm sure it could work and leave a factory looking weld dot if you shape the electrode to the proper size.
 
DATEC;n72843 said:
The welder I mentioned are battery operated (rechargeble and can last all day welding) or corded and can spot weld 5 layer of metals, automaticaly adjusts for differant metal types/thicknesses, have differant heads to get into really deep and odd areas and have air powered clamping with over 90lb of force. The ones you are refering to are limited and have nowhere the capability/usability of a unit like the Pro-Spot i4/i5 but I'm sure even with their limited useability could come in handy so long as you use it on what it is designed for.
Click to expand...
Battery powered? I don't think that is possible given the massive current requirements involved. It could be that there is an on-board computer with a small battery to keep from losing settings, but those welders have to be plugged in to work.

http://prospot.com/products/i4/
 
Sorry about that Crash it was the PHS-100 they have (I stated the wrong one) it was plugged into the wall while not in use and he said it ran on the batteries in the welders cabnet. I was stumpped when he said he could weld all day before it needed recharged. I seen the work it put out and I was really impressed but for $26k it better be. I've been talking with the rep that sold him it and he first told me of it and that that shop bought one and I finnaly got a chance to see it, really nice unit, But $26k? do you think it would be worth the money in the long run? You do save time not dressing miged spot welds and the apperiance looks factory for sure, but still..... Where would you draw the line? I'm kinda stumped with that one. I can't imagine you still wouldn't have some blow through holes (like the Lenco would do) if there is anything other then perfectly clean rust free metal.
 
I have been looking into these since I heard about them from the Rep. And got a chance to see it and the work it can put out. The x-co-worker that was showing me and telling me about it said, when I asked, how long can you weld with it before the batteries go dead? He said all day. Well I watched the video on it and they said you can get about 100 welds depending in what your welding. So I would guess he was just hyping a little about the welder knowing our shop doesn't have one. Both our shops are DRP shops and we work on current model vehicles regularly and I was going to push my boss to do some upgrades and this was going to be part of them.

Any thoughts on whether you would consider such an investment?
 
Well that is pretty interesting. Sorry for doubting it! I would love to have one but it will have to wait till I hit the lottery or make a ton more money, because I hate debt.
 
No problem Crash. I wasn't 100% sold either until I seen it and looked into it. I is really geared for the new vehicles out on the road they are using alot of differant types of metal fused together each having differant crush resistance upon impact. They are putting some really funky metal and higher strength steel/alum. all combinded to save weight and these areas are not Mig friendly. They are starting to require the use of a Silicon Bronze type wire that melts at a cooler temp. and wicks into and behind the joining panels (like soldiering copper water line together). While I haven't looked into it really hard it sounds like a Mig Braze which would require a new mig to handle it. Things are getting pretty involved in the automotive repair field that's for sure.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top