dust in epoxy sealer

C

cstrom72

I have searched and read similar posts on this topic but I have a question, for a NON show car or hot rod (just a daily driver bronco) in the right light I can see very small specs of "dust"in my sealer coat, And I know none is better when it comes to dust or trash in paint but how much can a guy get away with, this is a PITA to sand and remask and im a bit behind schedule. I can be overly picky and I dont do paint work very often so Im not sure what a guy can get away with. Its a grey epoxy reduced 50% and im shooting it two tone (bottom 7" tan with a SPI black base on everything else if that matters.

Ive read a grey scuff pad (= to 800 grit) can work, or 600 wet (which i really dont want to do) can I do a light scuffing with 600 or 800 dry?? I know in the end its the prep work that counts but with 2 coats of tan and 2 coats of black plus 3 coats of clear will anything in the sealer show?? assuming I dont get anymore dust in the final coats. Thanks guys!
 
If your dust is in the epoxy sealer, why not just hit it lightly with a fine grit paper
enough to knock them down? You're still going to mask and paint either way, right?
Am I missing something here? (I usually do)
 
I just dont really want to remask everything. If I can hit it lightly with dry 400 or 600 then I could blow the vehicle off. Or maybe carefully wet sand with a small sponge..? would the grey pad work im kind of leaning that way. Or i suppose ill just wet sand it and remask, (im sooo sick of masking!!!) I feel like ive spent more on tape, plastic and paper than I did on the paint it self.
 
I've never had good luck "denibbing" epoxy sealer with scotch brite pads, the epoxy doesn't sand like a primer so it just kind of rides over the bumps. I prefer to wet sand with 600 before basing. (Again this is in a home garage "booth" that is more prone to have dust and dirt issues). I look at it like this, the less coats to spray forthe final finish, the less chance of contamination. So why start with a surface that already has imperfections in it?
 
Scotchbrite is not for denibbing. Wet or dry paper can be used dry, briefly, but it will load up. That's usually what I will do, grab a piece of 600 but just use it dry. The spots are so small you can just turn the sandpaper around when it gets loaded up.
 
Of course I unmasked and wet sanded with 600, i feel better now but am even farther behind schedule. Its very very hard not to rush things. its a nice cool 75 degree day and im following the Perfect Paint Job as I go along, it says its best to wait over night before spraying clear... If I spray my base this afternoon at say 2PM, should I really wait till morning or could I clear at say 10 pm??
 
Eight hours is plenty, in my book, especially if you have not applied the base too heavy and trapped solvent. If you hose that basecoat on, or it needs lots of coats to cover, it's better to wait til the next day.
 
Thanks, i just shot my first coat of base, the lower 7 " of the bronco (eddie bauer) is tan, I went with chromabase and the first coat went on nice, I was worried about hosing it on so i did a semi tack coat first, I think one more coat will be enough. Im anxious to shoot the SPI black here in a couple hours :)
 
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