J
jamesn
First post. Long time lurker.
After too many years of not having time to work on my 67 GTO convertible, I’m finally back to it. My first restoration project.
It has rust and rot in all of the typical places. I’ve stripped it and can see that I’ll be doing a good amount of sheet metal replace/repair.
Right now I have the body off the frame on a roll around dolly. I’ve been concentrating on the rear end of the car. Trunk rear quarters wheel wells.
I’m at the point where I have started to plan on painting the repaired areas. I want to start with epoxy primer but I’ve read so many posts and articles about adhesion problems do to surface prep that I’m not as confident as I’d like to be to proceed.
I know that this is one of those subjects that’s been beat to death by those that have experience with it and have formed firm opinions, but I ask your indulgence one more time to let me know what you think of my plan.
Years ago (maybe ten yrs.) I stripped the paint using a DA and paint stripper. When I realized that I was not going to be able to continue to work on the car for a long while I used phosphoric acid products to neutralize the rust and preserve the sheet metal. Having now become aware of the potential adhesion problems associated with the evil acid, I need a plan.
Based on what I’ve read this is the plan.
- Wash the areas with mildly soapy water to remove the acid powder residue.
- Rinse well with clean water.
- Dry with compressed air and shop vac blower.
- Wet the areas with phosphoric solution – keep it wet for 15 mins.
-Scrub wet solution with abrasive pad
-Rinse well with clean water
-Dry
-Sand blast (I have a portable sandblaster now)
-Rinse
-Dry
-Spray 2 coats of epoxy
Next question concerns the pre-paint surface.
There are spots on the original sheet metal where some of the original paint is very difficult to remove. I’m wondering why I should work so hard at removing paint that is obviously so well adhered. Can I spray epoxy over these small spots? Will it adhere to the old paint.
Last question (for now). Body filler.
Should I put body filler on the epoxy soon after spraying for better adhesion or can it wait for months or years.
I know that it would best to complete the painting from start to finish coat, but like most amateur jobs, this will be done in stages. I’m trying to establish an understanding of where the overall process can be halted and as a result what needs to be done when returning for the next step.
Yikes!, Longer than I thought. No wonder I’m sweating and my two typing fingers are numb. I’m done.
Thanks,
Jim
After too many years of not having time to work on my 67 GTO convertible, I’m finally back to it. My first restoration project.
It has rust and rot in all of the typical places. I’ve stripped it and can see that I’ll be doing a good amount of sheet metal replace/repair.
Right now I have the body off the frame on a roll around dolly. I’ve been concentrating on the rear end of the car. Trunk rear quarters wheel wells.
I’m at the point where I have started to plan on painting the repaired areas. I want to start with epoxy primer but I’ve read so many posts and articles about adhesion problems do to surface prep that I’m not as confident as I’d like to be to proceed.
I know that this is one of those subjects that’s been beat to death by those that have experience with it and have formed firm opinions, but I ask your indulgence one more time to let me know what you think of my plan.
Years ago (maybe ten yrs.) I stripped the paint using a DA and paint stripper. When I realized that I was not going to be able to continue to work on the car for a long while I used phosphoric acid products to neutralize the rust and preserve the sheet metal. Having now become aware of the potential adhesion problems associated with the evil acid, I need a plan.
Based on what I’ve read this is the plan.
- Wash the areas with mildly soapy water to remove the acid powder residue.
- Rinse well with clean water.
- Dry with compressed air and shop vac blower.
- Wet the areas with phosphoric solution – keep it wet for 15 mins.
-Scrub wet solution with abrasive pad
-Rinse well with clean water
-Dry
-Sand blast (I have a portable sandblaster now)
-Rinse
-Dry
-Spray 2 coats of epoxy
Next question concerns the pre-paint surface.
There are spots on the original sheet metal where some of the original paint is very difficult to remove. I’m wondering why I should work so hard at removing paint that is obviously so well adhered. Can I spray epoxy over these small spots? Will it adhere to the old paint.
Last question (for now). Body filler.
Should I put body filler on the epoxy soon after spraying for better adhesion or can it wait for months or years.
I know that it would best to complete the painting from start to finish coat, but like most amateur jobs, this will be done in stages. I’m trying to establish an understanding of where the overall process can be halted and as a result what needs to be done when returning for the next step.
Yikes!, Longer than I thought. No wonder I’m sweating and my two typing fingers are numb. I’m done.
Thanks,
Jim
