Euro clear 2020 solvent pop

Prprop143

Prprop143

Promoted Users
Hey guys,
I just finished 3 coats of the Euro 2020 and I developed some very small bubbles which appear to be Solvent pop. They showed up on the 3rd coat and my question is can I try and sand them out during the color sand process? This is my first time using this clear and wanted some feedback on how long to wait before color sanding.
I finished spraying last night and we will be having Temps in the high 80's for the next week.
Thanks for any help!
 

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Very minor and all it means is third coat was applied to soon but no big deal 1500 wet and buff.
You can color sand anytime you want at this point.
 
I don't know why, but I have found that in my shop, I have to use a step slower of SPI reducer than would be indicated by the label. For instance, I can't safely use straight 870 above 70° on horizontal surfaces in Euro or in the sealer that I use, or else there is a very high possibility of solvent pop. I'm not sure if this is just a quirk of my environment and spray style, or if SPI reducer is a little on the fast side generally.
 
crashtech said:
I don't know why, but I have found that in my shop, I have to use a step slower of SPI reducer than would be indicated by the label. For instance, I can't safely use straight 870 above 70° on horizontal surfaces in Euro or in the sealer that I use, or else there is a very high possibility of solvent pop. I'm not sure if this is just a quirk of my environment and spray style, or if SPI reducer is a little on the fast side generally.
Click to expand...
I'm still dailing in my process, but I used SPI Medium Reducer, waiting 30 mins between coats and checked my sample part to see if I could slide my finger over the surface or if it was stringy/sticky. My figure slide across the surface so I thought it flashed. If my coating thickness had to much variation, thicker/thinner then my sample part could that cause this condition. The solvent pop is minor and scattered...
Using LPH400 LVX, 1.3, 4.1.2 mix, 30psi, fan open, 3 turns out on fluid, and 78 degs. I keep a sample part with me for setup and flash testing. Using Wandabase hs.
 
Medium reducer this time of year is too fast. Even at 78. That is one of the causes, IMO probably the main cause. Surface flashes off too fast with medium and traps solvents. Use slow reducer. Don't be afraid to even add a splash of retarder as well. Not much at 78 but a splash (capful) of it will help.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Medium reducer this time of year is too fast. Even at 78. That is one of the causes, IMO probably the main cause. Surface flashes off too fast with medium and traps solvents. Use slow reducer. Don't be afraid to even add a splash of retarder as well. Not much at 78 but a splash (capful) of it will help.
Click to expand...
It's great having you guys as resources. I will get with Brian from Atomic Automotive Refinish and order some 5003-4 act and 925-4 retarder and hopefully get it shipped Monday morning...
 
I had to be reminded that slower (act/reducer) actually allows Euro to dry faster for the very reason Chris mentioned.
 
crashtech said:
I don't know why, but I have found that in my shop, I have to use a step slower of SPI reducer than would be indicated by the label. For instance, I can't safely use straight 870 above 70° on horizontal surfaces in Euro or in the sealer that I use, or else there is a very high possibility of solvent pop. I'm not sure if this is just a quirk of my environment and spray style, or if SPI reducer is a little on the fast side generally.
Click to expand...
I use the 885 Reducer all year round and have some Retarder on hand just in case for those real hot days we get here in Arizona.
In colder temperatures, I increase the flash times. Generally, I touch the clear on the masking tape to see if it sticks to my gloved finger. If no strings result, it's good for the next coat.
 
The other day I had to paint the roof on an SUV, surface temps were 93°. I used 895 reducer in the Euro, and put about 3% retarder in the last coat, since it takes me a good while to get around it, stepping up and down makeshift scaffolding. It came out really nice.
 
crashtech said:
The other day I had to paint the roof on an SUV, surface temps were 93°. I used 895 reducer in the Euro, and put about 3% retarder in the last coat, since it takes me a good while to get around it, stepping up and down makeshift scaffolding. It came out really nice.
Click to expand...
How long is the flash time? What activator?
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
I use the 885 Reducer all year round and have some Retarder on hand just in case for those real hot days we get here in Arizona.
In colder temperatures, I increase the flash times. Generally, I touch the clear on the masking tape to see if it sticks to my gloved finger. If no strings result, it's good for the next coat.
Click to expand...
I will start making sure I have some slow act/reducer along with retarder on the shelf. I setup a sample piece of metal that follows the production process and that's what I use for testing the sticky test. It unfortunately didn't have any solvent pop so I sprayed my panel.
Is there a good SPI
Chris_Hamilton said:
Medium reducer this time of year is too fast. Even at 78. That is one of the causes, IMO probably the main cause. Surface flashes off too fast with medium and traps solvents. Use slow reducer. Don't be afraid to even add a splash of retarder as well. Not much at 78 but a splash (capful) of it will help.
Click to expand...
Another question, I'm prepped and ready to paint and cannot get any slow act/reducer until late next week. Here in washington state the temp in the mornings are 72-75. Could I use the Medium act/reducer that I have? That seems to be the range for this stuff...
 
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